Starter wiring help!

[BigGun J]

Sorry if this comes in twice, I do not see the original post?

I put a 6.2 into my Toyota Landcruiser. My cruiser starter had the large batt cable and one powered when switch was turned to start position. The 6.2 starter has the large batt cable terminal. It akso has two other smaller terminals marked "S" and "R"
I assume the Totota wire that is energized while the key is in the "start" position goes to the "S" terminal. Do I also run a wire that that is powered while the key is turned through the full motion? So there is power to the "R" terminal while the ignition is in the on, start position. I probably can not jumper the batt cable to the "R" terminal as it would be powered all the time?

Thanks, Jim

[john8662]

You just need the hot lead from the key to go to the S terminal when starting, the R terminal isn't used.

It's that simple

:)

[BigGun J]

That worked! Now I need to find my fuel leak? I installed a 6.5TD intake and filter. I loosned the the top of the filter "the black vent that you use to blow the fuel out the drain" and added a hose to a jar. Ran my installed electric fuel pump and I have a fuel leak. Fuel did not come out the vent but more around the top of the filer and possible the bottom? I have the glow plugs removed and turned the motor over "without the electric fuel pump, that was installed just to prime the system" and I have a big fuel leak? Will have to work on that tomorrow.
So close and yet so far away.

Jim

[Robyn]

Hint

Take that GM factory filter off and throw it as far as you can, then walk over and do it again a few more times.

Get a nice Racor 230R2 filter assembly and be done with the mess.
The Racor has a bowl on the bottom with a water drain and a nice air bleed up top side.

The filter elements are a screw on type and readily available.

The factory units are barely a clod sifter anyway and prone to leaking and other issues as they get time on them.

The Racor will fit neatly into many little corners and is just a great upgrade.

Also when its time to bleed the air, you dont have to put up with the mess. :)

Best

Robyn

[john8662]

Aside from the sales pitch above for Raycor by Robyn, I'll offer some things to check on the FM100 filter assembly (round mounts to the 6.5 intake manifold in the valley of the engine).

Frequently, the filter housing will leak on the filter top when there is an additional and left-behind seal from a previous filter. Remove the black plastic retainer, then remove your filter from the top, and inspect the flat surface that the filter mounts to. You should not see an additional rubber gasket nor a shiny ring on the top (would have been on an old element). This will certainly cause leaks on the top.

Also when re-installing the filter take special note of the orientation of the notches that the filter seats onto the housing with, you want full seating.

If this isn't it, it can be the o-ring on the bottom of the housing that seals the heater element to the bottom of the housing, this requires removal of the housing to service.

J

[BigGun J]

I will take a good look at it tomorrow. I think it has the ring in it?

Jim

[Robyn]

Not intending to advertise. :eek:

Just had too many issues over the years with the Little GM factory filter.

They also have a habit of rotting out down in the lower area where the heater unit screws in.

Having used Racor stuff on the Big rigs for years, I have come to respect their top quality products.

Ease of service, simple and clean.

I do have a stock unit on the 94 Burb, only because I found it new in the box at a garage sale for a Buck $1 :)

I have always hated the mess envolved with changing the filter back in the "HOLE"

If the air bleed worked like it should and you could drain the air fuel off through a hose out the top instead of having it flow all over things. :(

Later

RC