uhhgg defeated by the heater quick disconnect ? too

[Hubert]

Uhhhgg dang it. %$#*@%$!!!! that ding dang heater hose quick disconnect fitting.

Well, it defeated me. I bought one of the tools you hammer into the broken fitting like a straight easy out. It did not work I did not hammer in far enough. So then I tried Robyn's trick and cut it 2 plcs with a dremel then hammered the tool back in and proceeded to strip it out and generally boogered it up. Must not have cut deep enough or my fitting was just that corroded into the aluminum.

It broke off just touching it trying to unhook the plastic keepers for the metal hose end. It was pitting and generally corroded as crud.

So I am admitting defeat and ordering a new cross over.

Will the NPT fitting to hose adapter for the water pump hose the one that goes down besides the oil fill spout come with the new cross over? Or is that extra?

I might try and take that out of the old one before tossing it but right now I am going to enjoy a beverage before looking at that ding dang thing again.

[zig9765]

if you take a haksaw blade cut the fitting inside down to the threads in two spots you can use a small chisel and hammer to get it out i have done this several time on all different gms with this fitting

[Hubert]

Yeah, I tried that trick to help break it. I used a little endmill looking bit on my dremel and cut down to what I thought was pretty deep. I have read Robyn's post on it.

My piece was so corroded it was more a hard gum than metal. I should have already changed it. Its been weeping for a while. Apparently it was actually weeping through the metal not the seal as I had thought. Where it broke in two was pitted and had a lot of porosity.

[Robyn]

I have chopped several of those #$%^& things out and have yet to find one that resisted to the point that I could not remove it.

Takes patience and a little time to do but usually 30 minutes with the Xover off the truck and in a vice will do the trick.

The fitting does not come with the crossover. Use your old nipple for the bypass hose.

A new heater quick connect made of steel is available from NAPA or others. These seem to do quite well and dont corrode like the diecast ones do.

best

Robyn

[Hubert]

Thanks,

Well, I boogered this one up pretty bad and not much left to get at; need more of a dental pick to dig it out of the threads. Its ugly I tried to impact it out hoping it would put a "cleaner" torque on it and zip it out. Should not have done that. The "easy out" tool chewed up most of the body and it crumbled out. Then I said can't be much holding it so I tried an ID pipe wrench and that dug in and took a chunk out of the end of the casting.

Anyone that tries this cut it two places and beat it out make sure you cut it deep enough and be very patient. Rushing will make a mess of it.

[Robyn]

Any use of easy outs or internal gripping tools will just make a mess.

The secret is to cut with a die grinder and a small bur until the threads just show.
Once its cut on both sides then you use a capping chisel and a small ball peen hammer to work the nasty little #$%^&*# out.

Once the crap is mostly out, thread in a pipe tap to clean out and restore the threads.

The expanding tools just push the piece back into the threads and the locking forces tend to keep them from coming out.

One of our members sent me one that he had chewed on for a while and gave up.
I got the broken and mangled critter out in less than 20 miunutes and had it all clean and ready to go.

I am probably going to use it on my 6.2 project.

If you want you can send your dead one to me and I will get the crap out for you ?? :)

[Hubert]

Agreed it would have been better to leave more of the fitting to work with.

Let me look at again and I'll let you know.