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ThreeQuarter
05-05-2004, 19:45
I am looking into installing a remote fuel filter asm. in my engine compartment, and completely doing away with my OEM setup. I have been searching for related posts but most pertain to pre- or post-OEM filtration.

1. Is this wise? Is there anything about the OEM filter or its location that a remote aftermarket setup can't replicate?
2. Can I buy an aftermarket setup to work with my existing fuel heater wiring, and my "water in fuel" dash light?

a5150nut
05-05-2004, 20:12
Can I buy an aftermarket setup to work with my existing fuel heater wiring, and my "water in fuel" dash light?

Probably, but why fix something that aint broke. It would be easyer to just add an inline filter under the truck.

whatnot
05-05-2004, 20:14
If you go down and search the Duramax forum, you will find more info about filters than you ever wanted to know.
(I seem to recall that a stanadyne fm100 has everything you want)

Turbine Doc
05-05-2004, 20:14
3/4
rather than do away with factory set up mount a pre filter set up the factory filt is nominal rated to 10 mic has WIF and heater you would have to replace in the add on filt more $$$ for WIF & Heater then you gotta wire it.

A frame mounted 20 mic filter like a RACOR 645 or 660 before the lift pump can improve filtration, for ultimate you could add one post factory in 2 micron, all those can be bought at various sites and DP advertisers.

the 2 mic is probably over kill for the 6.5, now tons of debate for the DMax over subject of filtration, how much time you got go to the Dmax or 6.6 forum lots of material on it. I run a 20 mic racor on the frame pre lift pump into factory on engine 10 mic filt.

CareyWeber
05-05-2004, 20:25
Maybe just move the factory filter to s better location thats what I'd like to do of course I already have a racor too.

Carey

slagona
05-06-2004, 07:16
I welded up a bracket using angle iron to house the factory filter and attached it to the alternator bracket. The bracket is still sitting there without anything attached to it. I am contemplating putting the by-pass filter at that location instead of the fuel filter.

The diesel suburban guy used to market a fuel filter add on for suburbans he sold which was mounted to the firewall. So, I may switch the fuel filter to the firewall and have the by-pass oil filter at the alternator.

My main reasons for moving the fuel filter are:

1) easier detection of leaks - both filter housing and hoses
2) excessive heating of fuel during the summer months
3) It gave me a reason to break out the welder some

CareyWeber
05-06-2004, 07:57
Originally posted by slagona:
I welded up a bracket using angle iron to house the factory filter and attached it to the alternator bracket. The bracket is still sitting there without anything attached to it. I am contemplating putting the by-pass filter at that location instead of the fuel filter.

The diesel suburban guy used to market a fuel filter add on for suburbans he sold which was mounted to the firewall. So, I may switch the fuel filter to the firewall and have the by-pass oil filter at the alternator.

My main reasons for moving the fuel filter are:

1) easier detection of leaks - both filter housing and hoses
2) excessive heating of fuel during the summer months
3) It gave me a reason to break out the welder some slagona,

I like that location it's not one I'd thought of.

I was thinking about the drivers side.

Carey

ThreeQuarter
05-06-2004, 18:39
There are reasons why I'm wanting to do away with the OEM setup, so I don't want to use it inline with another. Don't make me explain it, just play along with me here... smile.gif

triggerman
05-06-2004, 19:52
I positioned my OEM filter about 3 1/2" behind the drivers side battery on the fender wall. Had to slightly ding the bottom of the hood to have good clearance on the top of the filter. LOVE the location ! I think mounting off engine is the best place due to the low vibration keeping sediment/water from being stired up unessesarily.