Replacing lower ball joint

[JFerg65]

Well I've put this project off long enough and need to get it replaced. While looking for the correct part, it asks if the arm is stamped or forged. The wishbone part of the arm appears stamped, but it looks like a forged part then comes off of the bottom of the arm where the ball joint is pressed in.

I am assuming that this means it is a forged arm, but wanted to clear this up before I went and ordered any parts. Thanks

Also do you really have to tear everything off as they say in the manual to replace or can you get it out by leaving some of the stuff on there?

1996 2500 suburban

[Robyn]

The lower arms are a stamped/fabricated unit and the upper arms are a forging.

At least on the 94/95 trucks

If memory serves, you can remove the joint and leave the arm in the rig with the Torsion bar attached. This will keep the alignment at least close.

Simply jack the rig up under the arm and then remove the rivets/bolts that hold the ball joint in the arm.
Remove the nut from the joint at the spindle assembly and use a suitable puller to dislodge the taper from the spindle assembly.

If it is riveted, you can use a die grinder with a suitable cutter (carbide ball or ???) to remove the rivet heads.

This will allow the joint to be removed.
You will need to get the tire/wheel assembly off and out of the way.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor assembly to get as much weight off the hub/spindle assembly as possible

Once the thing is stripped down and you get the nut off the lower ball joint and the taper knocked loose, you should be able to lft the hub/spindle assembly up allowing the upper arm to swing up and away.

Tie the assembly out of your working area and then you can access the lower joint to work on it.

The joint fits up from the bottom of the control arm and has a flange on it with rivets/bolts that hold the joint in.

With the fasteners removed the joint should come out, possibly with a little coaxing.

Replace the new joint after cleaning the area of all crud.

I believe the replacement part is bolted in with grade 8 bolts and lock nuts.

Once you have replaced all the parts back to where they belong and all is well, the next step is to get the rig in for a front end alignment.

Over time and with the wear, things are probably not even close any more as far as the alignment.

You would probably do well to replace all the ball joints Top and bottom on both sides.

If one is bad the rest are likely not in great shape either.

** to dislodge the taper on the joint, a PICKLE FORK may work dandy**

Be sure your jack is stable under the lower arm and that the chassis is blocked well under the frame while your getting rough under there.

Be safe

Robyn

[More Power]

A couple of photos provided by William Buchak "diesel65". Thanks William!

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/wbucha01.jpg

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/wbucha02.jpg

Jim

[opto]

I've seen some lowers that are forgings, don't know what year they are but the forged ones really look different (thinner)

On the stamped steel control arms the joint go in between two sheets of steel, I suppose this is not the case on forged ones but can't tell for sure

Edit: those where the the joint go in between are earlier models

[JFerg65]

Those pics help out. That looks to be what is on my rig. If you look at the lower arm, the part where the joint goes into is a forged piece (at least it looks like it) and it is shoved into the end of the arm. It does not appear that they are riveted on but pressed in. Am I correct on this one. I crawled around and could not feel / see any rivets.

So here is the $64,000 question. Is this considered a forged control arm or stamped?

[More Power]

The stamped-steel lower control arm is the lower of the two in each photo. The forged-steel version is the upper in each photo.... :)

Jim

[JFerg65]

WOW.... Sorry about that, now I am officially back on earth!

[CareyWeber]

Do you have to remove the axle shaft (I don't think so)?


The forged lower arms are on the 97 and newer rigs and they let the truck turn much sharper than the old stamped style.

[diesel65]

The stamped steel arm was off my 97 Tahoe, the forged arm was off a 99 2500 Suburban.


I forgot to add, that when doing the lower ball joint you need to take the steering knuckle off, you can either break the upper joint loose with a fork if you plan to replace it or disconnect the control arm from the chassis if you want to save the old BJ. It also means removing the brake caliper, rotor and hub bearing first, this allows you to lower the knuckle to clear the lower BJ without removing the axle shaft.

[Robyn]

From my experience in the world of metals and what does and does not hold up to abuse, I would use the fabricated lower arm.

The forgings are easier to make under automation as compared to the fabed unit.

I have seen the fabricated lowers twisted all to rat $h*T and not break.

My reasoning is, the fabricated part has grain structure running in so many directions plus the greater cross sections.

The GM IFS has never been famous for being a strong suspension anyway, especially in off road use.

Missy