Towing a Tahoe: Again!

[Stratosurfer]

All,
In my quest to tow my Tahoe behind my motorhome I have discovered these facts (anyone correct any incorrect point):
1) Tahoe can be towed 4 wheels down: I have the manual shift xfer case w/neutral position
2) Dolly not recommended: Tahoe too heavy
What I don't know:
a) Manual says nothing over 55 mph: can I tow 4 wheels down only up to 55 mph? Or is the manual discussing wrecker towing? Bottom line I want to know if I can tow the Tahoe 4 wheels down xfer case in neutral over 55 mph w/o damaging anything. Blue OX website only states that the 1500 Tahoe has mph restrictions, I believe this goes to what I mentioned about the manual.
b) Do I need to leave the Tahoe's engine running while towing? I plan on installing a Roadmaster air brake actuator on the Tahoe to use the air from the coaches air brakes to pump the Tahoes brake pedal. If the engine is off and the hydroboost not pumping would the Tahoe Brake sufficiently?
Are their drive train issues that would make it necessary to have the engine idling while being towed.
Anyone know any of this stuff? Anyone towed a Tahoe in nuetral on Xfer case 4 wheels down?
Any help appreciated. I don't want to invest in towing gear if this is not a good vehicle to tow.
Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

I know of only one reason you would EVER tow with the engine running. IF you had to tow a short distance (not what you are trying to do), and were unable to disconnect the drivetrain from the automatic transmission. The only reason auto tranny vehicles have issue with this is lubrication. Auto's (with very few, very old exceptions) only pump fluid (lubrication) with the engine running. Dragging one around with the engine off will destroy an auto tranny. The 55mph, I believe, can only apply to "Auto 4x4" (Autotrac transfer case), as they don't "truly" disconnect, even when in neutral, and also have their own clutches. Not your problem, you don't have one.

Your Tahoe with the manual transfer case will disconnect the drivetrain completely from the transmission, when the transfer case is in neutral. The transfer case oil pump is at the rear output shaft, so it's gonna get lubed, even towing 4 down. I know a lot of folks who do it, and none have issues when done correctly.

Although they've been used for various purposes, tow dollies were designed, originally, for one purpose. Towing small front wheel drive vehicles. Of course, the dolly design has been expanded to larger vehicles over the years, and then intended for short distance use. In any case, 4 down (if possible) and trailering is always preferred for distance towing.

[arveetek]

Ditto everyting Dmax just told ya. Put the TC in neutral, and tow as fast as you want without the engine running. Just leave the steering wheel unlocked so your wheels will turn with the motorhome.

Casey

[Stratosurfer]

Put the TC in neutral, and tow as fast as you want without the engine running.Casey

Thanks to both of you guys. Will my brakes work OK on the Tahoe with the engine off and the hydroboost not turning? I know it's a lot harder to stop with my brake leg when the 6.5 dies...

[DmaxMaverick]

Bad idea, leaving the engine running, under any circumstance. If you need more braking power, install a dedicated "trailering" braking system. However, if your coach has airbrakes, you should have no problem getting a full size brake pod applying enough force on the pedal, engine on or off (10^2" x 110 PSI = 1,100 lbs. force). You will have to adjust the bias regulator for the "trailer" brakes for optimum braking, but no problem. Don't think you can just "tap" into your existing brake line and run it to the Tahoe. It will need its own regulator, and a way to adjust it. This is most often mounted at the driver console (or within reach), or via a servo for remote adjustment. The braking bias difference between your coach and Tahoe will most certainly be very different. Just "tapping" the same pressure for one of your coach axle brakes will either provide too little/no Tahoe braking, our it'll lock the wheels at low-moderate braking. Plus, the coach likely has anti-lock braking, which must be independent from the towed vehicle.

You can do it "on the cheap", but do it right. Otherwise, purchase/install a kit designed for this purpose (very expensive!!).

[Stratosurfer]

Thanks DMax, this is just what I needed to learn.
Muchas Gracias