no start, start, no start

[mafrazer1]

I've had this 6.5 Sub for 3 years, and it always started without issue.
Until now. Drove it to work Feb. 3, started and ran just fine in 22 deg. F temps. When attempting to start to go home at 3pm and about 30 deg. F, no start. SES not on.
Cranked ok, "wait to start" light was on, then off. But no hint of a start or stumble. Just cranked good until batteries wore down. Towed home by a ford tow rig.:eek:
Replaced: fuel filter, glow plugs, glow relay, oil pressure switch, lift pump. Sometimes it will start if block heater has been on for 3-4 hours. Sometimes not. When it does start, will stall while driving.
Loosened nuts of 2 injector fuel tubes, cranked and saw no fuel. Thinking need more cranking...then it starts! Saw fuel then.
Now waiting for fuel shut off solenoid(top of DS4).
I knew the FSD was suspect so ordered a Dtech FSD, received one with a "WAP, Inc." label.
Anyone ever heard of "WAP, Inc."??? I wont name the vendor yet. Still wanting an explanation. (have not installed it yet)
About 55k on this injection pump, per dealer records.

What am I missing here?

[enormiss]

ordered a Dtech FSD, received one with a "WAP, Inc." label.
Anyone ever heard of "WAP, Inc."??? I wont name the vendor yet. Still wanting an explanation. (have not installed it yet)


I got the same thing, and wondered the same...
I needed to rule out a bad unit so installed, Mine works fine no issues.
Hopefully she lasts a looong time

[JTodd]

I would check your LP. I don't know if that is the problem, but with the lack of fuel at the lines, and the hard start, I would start there. Even if you can hear or feel it, pull the outlet line and see if fuel actually is being pumped. I could hear mine running, but it was not doing anything.

[DickWells]

If the lift pump/oil pressure switch all prove out, don't dismiss the importance of all those grounds on a 6.5. Pay special attention to the one on the pass-side rear, at the trans dip-stick tab. Cost me a lot of heartache back a few years. The one down on the frame, outboard of the starter is another one. I ended up driving a 5/16 hole through the frame from inside the fender well, and using a double nutted SS bolt on that tab.
Found a bad wire in the little black rubber molded block, up at the IP. I think it's a shunt of some kind. Has about 12 little 16 or 18 gauge wires through it. Wire was broken inside the rubber block. It would do all the bad stuff, from skips and momentary stalls to complete shut-down. Found it by wiggling all the wires and connectors under the hood, while the engine was idling. I simply jumped around the subject block with a soldered splice, and it was still going strong when I swapped to mechanical injection.
Good luck.
Dick Wells:)

[mafrazer1]

I got the same thing, and wondered the same...
I needed to rule out a bad unit so installed, Mine works fine no issues.
Hopefully she lasts a looong time
-------
I recieved a reply from the vendor:

From: vendor
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 10:16 AM
Subject: You've received an answer to your question about item NEW Improved 6.5L General Motors Diesel PMD Black Box
http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/globalAssets/ltCurve.gif
Seller has responded to your question about this item

http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/globalAssets/rtCurve.gif
Dear mafrazer1,

d-tech just markets them , the pmd is made by flight systems....same thing..
- dieselvendor(not real name)

http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif

I'm about to plug it in, I hope it works!
Anyone heard of "flight systems" ???

[mafrazer1]

I would check your LP. I don't know if that is the problem, but with the lack of fuel at the lines, and the hard start, I would start there. Even if you can hear or feel it, pull the outlet line and see if fuel actually is being pumped. I could hear mine running, but it was not doing anything.

I let the new LP pump about 1/2 gallon into a jug when I initially turned it on.
Didn't time it, but it put out a good stream.
Thanks for the replies.

[mafrazer1]

If the lift pump/oil pressure switch all prove out, don't dismiss the importance of all those grounds on a 6.5. Pay special attention to the one on the pass-side rear, at the trans dip-stick tab. Cost me a lot of heartache back a few years. The one down on the frame, outboard of the starter is another one. I ended up driving a 5/16 hole through the frame from inside the fender well, and using a double nutted SS bolt on that tab.
Found a bad wire in the little black rubber molded block, up at the IP. I think it's a shunt of some kind. Has about 12 little 16 or 18 gauge wires through it. Wire was broken inside the rubber block. It would do all the bad stuff, from skips and momentary stalls to complete shut-down. Found it by wiggling all the wires and connectors under the hood, while the engine was idling. I simply jumped around the subject block with a soldered splice, and it was still going strong when I swapped to mechanical injection.
Good luck.
Dick Wells:)

Thanks for the input.
I'll wiggle all the wires when it starts, and check all those grounds.

[mafrazer1]

Vendor listed it as Dtech, arrived labeled as WAP or "Wellman Automotive Products"
Installed today, and works just fine so far.
I will not trust this vehicle until it proves reliable. I hope this is the "root cause" of the no start.
(I guess this means "change the PMD" first when troubleshooting)

Is this Wellman Automotive Products new to the PMD business?
I searched ebay for pmd's 18 months ago and did not see them.
Wellman has their own webpage, but sells through distributors.
* Warranted by Wellman Automotive Products for one full year / unlimited mileage

Thanks for the input