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THEFERMANATOR
04-16-2009, 18:59
I started my conversion last week, and ordered the conversion manual from JIM on MONDAY. I've gotten many of the details worked out of the conversion, and will be updating this thread with year specific details I have found that are not covered in the manual due to the differences between 93 and 95. I don't know what the policies are regarding links here, so I will copy and past my current posts from another forum and put them into this post. Currently I have found that the DMAX controller looks for a ground signal from the HVAC controller. Jim covered this in his manual, and says that his 93 worked this way. I went to the dealership as I have access to all of the factory manuals there and double checked, but the 95-00 controllers send a 12V+ signal. The 95 powers the A/C relay directly, and the low pressure switch actually carries the A/C clutch load. And 96-00 send a 12V+ signal to the PCM.

I know most people will transfer the DMAX cluster over from the donor to the receiver, but I have decided to go stand-alone. The issues I have found with doing this are with the coolant temp guage, glow plug light and the tach. The tach on the 6.5 is driven off of the alternator, so you could tap into the alternator on the DMAX and run it that way. The earlier 6.5's like my 95 use a seperate sender for the guage and ECM(not sure on the later 6.5's), but the DMAX uses the ECT for the ECM and sends the signal via the bus to the cluster. The oil pressure sending unit on the 01-02 is the same as the 6.5 except it doesn't have the OPS circuit, so that will work fine.

The ECT actually outputs the same resistance as the seperate temp sensor used on my 95, but I don't know if the guiage will cause issues with false temp readings if I tap into it. I plan on using the block drain and tap it to accept the sender for the guage if this is an issue, but I will try teeing in first and see what happens first. The glow plug signal on the DMAX is a grounded signal via the PCM, but my 95 is a powered signal that ties straight into the glow plugs wiring. Later trucks may be different in the wiring, but for mine I will have to do some work on the cluster and make a cut and patch in the cluster printed circuit board.

The ECM does output a seperate speed signal for the ABS and then the speedo in the 01(didn't see one on the 02 wiring diagram). The speedo output does match that of the VSSB for the speedo, but I have yet to hear if the ABS output is the 128,000 per mile like that of the VSSB. The straw that may make me redo my dash wiring and concede defeat and swap to the 01 wiring though may be the tow/haul mode. The tow haul mode works with a momentary switch that feeds into the BCM, and then the BCM sends a signal to the ECM and that relays it to the TCM for tow/haul mode. If no BCM is present the TCM will work in regular mode, and O/D lockout will also function. But tow/haul mode is lost.

You can have it flashed by PPE to put it into tow/haul OR regular mode, but not switcheable. BRAYDEN at FLEECE CAN write a custom ALLISON program though that will give me tow/haul AND OD/lockout. I just don't feel like having the DIC beeping at me because my ABS and airbags won't talk to the cluster, and by going stand-alone the only things I see losing are the oil change reminder and trans temp guage. WIF and low coolant can be wired in to work with the 95 cluster as both of these were on the 6.5.

Stand-alone IS possible, and seems like a viable option for me as I prefer the layout of my 95 dash and cluster. Then again I just like to be different too:cool:.

THEFERMANATOR
04-16-2009, 19:03
Copies of my other posts from another forum.

Here's my donor after I drove her into the shop. The radiator and intercooler were trashed from it's wreck, but you'd be surprised at how well a heater core can cool an engine.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0867.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0867.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0868.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0868.jpg)
This was after the first afternoon of about 2 1/2 hours with my nephew helping me. He's trying to learn more about cars than what his playstation has taught him.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0870.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0870.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0872.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0872.jpg)
Took all of the harness's out without cutting.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0871.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0871.jpg)
On the second afternoon it was just me, so I was able to work without teaching. Took about 3 hours to have her out and the donor rolled out.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0873.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0873.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0874.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0874.jpg)

It wasn't actually as bad as I thought it would be to pull the engine and tranny out together. It's one HEAVY SOB, but came out fairly easily. The worst part was realizing while the engine was hanging on the hoist that the front diff had to drop down an inch to slide the engine out in order to clear the oil pan.

I'm still up in the air as to wether or not to transfer the cluster and BCM over. The only things I see that I will lose that really matter is the tranny temp guage and the tow/haul switch. I already have an older QUADZILLA digital guage for the tranny, and BRAYDEN at FLEECE can write me a custom TCM OS that will allow me to use tow/haul without the BCM. The WIF light can simply be tapped into the sensors output as it is just a magnetic on off switch that grounds a circuit. The wait to start light and check engine light already have there own drivers coming out of the ECM, so they can be wired directly to my existing cluster. The 01 ECM appears to have the correct ABS seperate output and a speedo output, so I should be able to elimnate my VSSB.

I'm sure I'll run into many obstacles along the way, but so far it hasn't been that bad. The ALLISON measures just 1" longer than my 4L80E, and the LB7 block has dual bolt patterns that will accept my old engine mounts. I'm going to do a test fit in the next few days to see if the mounts line up or not in the SUBURBAN, but if my measurements are correct the DMAX is actually not as long as the 6.5 I pulled out. And the fact that they moved #1 over to the passenger side on the DMAX should allow ample room for the downpipe to fit in.

It also turns out that there is a converted 99 C2500 SUBURBAN in VALRICO that has a 01 DURAMAX ALLISON in it. His is a 2 wheel drive, but he said it was a pretty easy swap. His was a 6.5 to start with as well, VS the one the dieselpage did where they started with a 88 1500 gasser. I'm probably being overly optimistic, but I don't want to burn myself out early on in this big of a project.

And here is the recipient just before the 6.5 was pulled.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/HPIM0047.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/HPIM0047.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
04-16-2009, 19:04
Well I worked on it again today and made a little progress. Here is the SUBURBAN stripped down and ready for some test fits.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0879.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0879.jpg)

Here's trial fit #1.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0883.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0883.jpg)

Here's trial fit #5 after several attempts of finding what had to be dropped and cut. Ended up having to remove the front differential, cutting the corner off of the passenger side engine mount pad on the frame, remove the bumper, and drop the steering linkage down.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0886.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0886.jpg)

Here's #7 where I actually got it somewhat close to where it should sit.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0887.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0887.jpg)

And on the 9th try I got it somewhat mocked in and was able to do some test fitting and clearance checking.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0889.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0889.jpg)

Should be plenty of room to move the radiator back and put the intercooler up there as I have over 4 inches of clearance between the fan and radiator.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0888.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0888.jpg)

Unfortunately it looks like I will either have to lift the body 2 inches, OR hammer out the tranny tunnel a bit, possibly switch over to the electric shift transfer case as the shift linkage is RIGHT against the tranny, cut part of the oil pan out and make a notch in it in the front to clear the steering linkage, hammer part of the oil pan in by the differential mounts, and do some more clearancing on the mount pads as to gain some clearance between the block and mount pads. This is a TIGHT fit, but looks doable. The hood will also be tight down to the engine at the compressor it looks like. I was able to get the transmission crossmember and mount in, but the tranny is touching the trans tunnel as it sits now.

THEFERMANATOR
04-16-2009, 19:06
Well I've spent a few more hours on it in the last few days. Progress has been next to nothing really, but I have worked out a few bugs and fitment issues that I was concerned with. I ended up moving the engine forward until the crossmember was bolted into the holes it was for the 4L80E, and putting the trans mount just slightly back from as far forward as it could sit in the crossmember. This unfortunately cut my clearance with the radiator down from 4. 1/2" to about 2". I wanted to move the engine as far back as possible, but it caused clearance issues with the oil pan and steering intermediate shaft. Also it was going to make fabricating engine mounts BEYOND a PITA! I also ordered in Jim Bigleys conversion guide from the page, and I am going to use the foundation of his mount templates for mine. My engine will actually be about a 1/2" furthur forward than his conversion, but at this point many things are revealed.

At this point in time there is NO DOUBT in my mind that the DURAMAX was designed to fit into the older GMT-400 platform. The ALLISON 1000 is another story. With about 5 minutes with a 3lb BFH the transmission now has about a 1/2" of clearance all around, and will have more before I'm done. The indent in the drivers manifold matches the intermediate steering shaft almost dead on. And the oil pan has a clearance spot in it that matches the steering nearly perfectly once you remove the plastic coating from it. Also by sliding the engine forward a 1/2" and lowering it down over the pan notch, it lowered the engine down and the fan shroud lines up almost perfectly center. And by using a 95 mount instead of the 01 on the trans, it brought my pinion and engine angles to within a 1/2 of a degree of each other so shimming shouldn't be required.

I'll have to rework the radiator core support a bit to work with the DMAX intercooler and retain an external trans cooler. The pages truck uses the radiator only in there conversion, and modified the condenser to slide it forward. I plan on cutting the fan shroud and sliding the radiator back an inch and gutting the center of the core support and sliding the intercooler in there.

The electrical appears to be pretty straigght forward as the 6.5 and DMAX use almost the same engine fuses and amperages. I will have to add an IGNITION 1 relay and the ECMPRV 15A and INJ B 25A for the FICM, as well as a 15 A fuse for the fuel heater. The rest are already there, and most of the wiring colors are the same between the 2. I will also have to add in another A/C relay as the 01 ECM looks for a ground from the HVAC controller, but the 95-00 controller in a 6.5 truck sends a 12V+ to engage the A/C. The APPS out of the 01 will not fit into my 95, but my 95 WILL interchange to the 01 ECM as they are both wired and work the same(just a different base with a stronger spring in it).

Now for some pictureshttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif.
Steering after grinding the coating off the front of the pan and smoothing the ribs down a bit. Provided an extra 3/8" clearance by cleaning it up, and a total of almost an inch after moving it forward with this cleaning.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0890.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0890.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0891.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0891.jpg)

Heres the steering shaft.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0893.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0893.jpg)

Lots of room between the turbo and firewall for the insulating mat.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0894.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0894.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0895.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0895.jpg)

And a few shots of the ALLISON nestled down in there nice and snuggly. I need to get a pic showing how close the shift rod is the case, it misses it by about a 1/4".
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0899.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0899.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0896.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0896.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
04-19-2009, 19:03
Next updates.

I'm making a little progress, BUT THIS THING IS KICKING MY but!! I have spent the past 2 days fabbing the motor mounts and welding em up. The passenger side one is done, but the drivers side warped some from welding. So I have to straighten it some in the press, and weld the last brace into it. Next I'm going to re-inforce the trans crossmember and fix it where I modified it in the past for a GEAR VENDOR install that I took out. That ALLISON is quite a bit heavier than my 4L80E was and the crossmember seems to flex more than I would like with the weight on it. I also am going to have to modify the lower oil pan on the passenger side. GM changed the front diff mount on the later trucks so they could put the kick-out on the side of the oil pan for extra capacity. That kick-out hits the lower mount for the front diff on mine, so I'm going to cut and weld a plate in like Bigley did on his rather than change out the mount for the diff. I dropped the pan earlier before making the mounts and installed the diff to make sure it all would clear, and I had good clearance on it.

I also installed some limiters inside of my factory rubber mounts so the engine can't move as far since it is so tight in there. I'm hoping to finish the drivers mount, trans crossmember, and get the oil pan cut-out made tommorrow. I may take it to a local welder and have him tig it so that I don't have to worry about any leaks in the pan instead of migging it myself. If I can get that done then I'm going to go run some more parts down MONDAY and take a break from it for the day. Then start on the engine and tranny with what I'm going to do to them. I know it needs a FPR on the CP3 as it loped like a cammed big block at idle before, and I found a FORD relay for $13 to fix the glow plug controller with already. I will probably also do head gaskets as I see some signs of leakage around the passenger rear side of the head in between the block and head, and do the injector cups while I'm there.

I'm still up in the air though on the injectors. They currently have roughly 130K on em, but it had ZERO smoking before. The balance rates were less than .5 on 6 and 2 were at 2.5(one positive and one negative). I also plan on a KENNEDY lift pump, EFILIVE(found out the new AUTOCAL will only be for one ECM/TCM combo with no expansion to a second ECM or TCM incase one fails), and an adjusteable boost valve. Also I found a pre bent 4" exhaust that will fit my SUBURBAN so I don't have to modify a truck exhaust to fit. And swap out my 4.10's for some 3.42's, and replace my CV boots.

No pics tonight, been working and getting so greasy I didn't want to mess up my camera.

THEFERMANATOR
04-19-2009, 19:04
Got the motor mounts done today, finished up my tranny crossmember and modified the oil pan. Got the engine sitting in there and with it's weight on the mounts.

Heres my finished motor mounts.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0901.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0901.jpg)

Passenger side installed in the truck.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0902.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0902.jpg)

Drivers side installed.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0905.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0905.jpg)

Before installing the mounts I had to take my BFH and flatten out part of the mount clamshell where the motor mount bolt was close and also added in some 1/4" plate to act as limiters to reduce engine movement. The red circle is where I had to flatten the edge off. The blue arrow shows where I added my limiters(theres one in the bottom as well).
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0900.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0900.jpg)

Oil pan clearance with it all together.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0907.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0907.jpg)

No turning back nowhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/eek.gif. You can see I had to take a good bit out of the passenger side of the lower pan to clear the diff mount.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0909.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0909.jpg)

And the finished pan after welding, grinding, pressure testing, and paint.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0910.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0910.jpg)

More Power
04-20-2009, 09:21
Looks like you're making progress. :)

The upper motor mounts as drawn in the guide (http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramaxconversions.htm) have worked in Lil Red now for nearly 5 years, and have done what they need to do (no engine contact with the frame or body) even when the Dmax is producing up to 632 horsepower. No mount movement limiters are necessary when using the fabricated upper mounts as drawn in the guide along with new 6.5 lower mounts (the part with the rubber), in my humble estimation.... ;)

Jim

THEFERMANATOR
04-20-2009, 19:29
I got a chance to go look at GORDON's SUBURBAN today, and it looks like my engine is sitting almost identical to his. A cowl induction hood may be in my future as I seen how tight his is in there and where his hits the hood. I did see though that his fan is almost dead center, so I should be good to go there as well. I'm going to try and fit a DMAX intercooler in there instead of the DODGE though. I have a good DMAX cooler, so I may as well use it. Still on the look-out for a transfer case though. I already have a floor shifter, so no reason to convert to pushbutton. There is enough room for the shifter, but it is TIGHT! It also appears as though the stock shifter cable will line up pretty good as I had that in position as well already

Burning Oil
04-21-2009, 22:33
Looking good!

THEFERMANATOR
04-27-2009, 10:34
Few more updates on my project.

Been a slow couple of days lately. I had to go run errands MONDAY, so I only got the oil pan back on it after putting JB weld over the seems for insurance. Went out today and built a stand for the engine and an adapter to put the tranny on my engine stand to make it easier to work on. Unfortunately I had a mishap today and broke my wiper motor cover and housing when the studs for the glow plug controller caught it when the engine swung sideways on me coming outhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif. Fortunately I priced out an aftermarket one for $68, so at least it wasn't TOO expensive.

Here's the oil pan epoxied over at the seems and everywhere that I had taken the paint off.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0912.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0912.jpg)

The engine sitting on it's stand.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0913.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0913.jpg)

And the ALLISON on the engine stand.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0914.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0914.jpg)

And my mishap.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0915.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0915.jpg)

Sure is empty looking without the powerplant.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0916.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0916.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
04-27-2009, 10:35
Progress had to slow down unfortunately this weekend as I had honey dos on Saturday and my asthma flared up yesterday. I did get to work on it for about 4 1/2 hours on Friday and was able to get the top half of the engine tore down. This engine is nowhere near as hard to work on as I thought it would be, or maybe the fact mine is on a stand makes a difference. The passenger side head gasket at the rear most coolant passage was just beginning to leak as I had the nice white chalk line on the back of the block below the gasket, and you can see the rust line in the pics on the gasket and the block. Also found that cylinder #2 was showing signs of washing down from fuel and the injector tip on that cylinder was pretty rough. 1 glow plug is burned out and 2 others look rough as well. I pulled the injectors apart and cleaned them with some spray cleaner to see what makes em tick inside, and they are actually pretty simple internally.

Here's the engine with the heads off.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0920.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0920.jpg)

The heads on the bench with the injector cups out.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0918.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0918.jpg)

right side gasket at the rear.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0919.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0919.jpg)

And the block in that spot.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0923.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0923.jpg)

This picture shows how #2 showed signs of a leaking injector as the bottom of the piston is very clean.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0921.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0921.jpg)

This may explain part of GM's troubles. This is the turbo intake horn gasket, that big ole MOPAR box for that little gasket.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0917.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0917.jpg)

And the innards of the infamous LB7 injectors.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0924.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0924.jpg)
You have the nozzle, a needle valve that rides inside of the nozzle, then the plunger that rides against the needle valve and the return spring and the spring seat that sits inside of the injector body. Inside of the injector body is a metal tab that protrudes through the spring and this is what pulls the plunger back to let the needle valve open and allow fuel through. And the 2 little pins are the locating pins that hold the nozzle in place to prevent it from turning. My camera couldn't focus on the insides or else I would have put up a pic of that as well. When I pulled it apart the needle valve was just about frozen into the injector nozzle body and required soaking to come apart. Once apart it cleans easily with spray cleaner and I re-assembled with marvel mystery oil. Debating on wether or not to replace them or have these tested and run them.

todh
06-03-2009, 16:55
Hi newbie here
I have been following for a while. I have been in contact with Bigley and Gordon Marks recently. I have 95 K3500 crew cab 6.5td awaiting 04 lb7.

According to alldata, the oem 04 hvac controlls sends "class 2 serial data" to the ecm which sends a ground to ac control relay to send 12v signal to engage the ac clutch.

Questions on your project:
1. Did you or do you plan to bypass ecm regarding ac request wire?
2. How did you or plan to wire your ac controlls with respect to ac high and low pressure switches?(I read your post on relay since 95 request wire is 12v+ and duramax oem request is a ground)
thanks th

More Power
06-04-2009, 09:55
Yes, you are correct in that the vehicle ECM communicates with the HVAC system control panel. It does this to manage the engine when the AC is requested and to provide additional diagnostics for any sort of HVAC problem.

My conversion works fine without any interaction between the HVAC and the vehicle ECM. The only negative that I am aware of is that when using an aftermarket programmer, like a Predator, the Predator looks at all of the ECM controlled/interfaced systems (including the HVAC) and expects to see it. When it doesn't see the HVAC, the Predator hangs in its diagnostics. This is easily cleared with an ignition key cycle during a Predator program upload. Otherwise, the Predator works normally.

The HVAC works great in Lil Red. The truck's 1989 HVAC controller outputs a ground when the AC request button is pressed. This ground is connected to the 2001 electrical center "AC request" relay, which then activates the AC compressor. The 2001 AC hi/low pressure switches are retained and are in the loop for the AC compressor clutch power circuit.

It all works great....

Jim

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 12:49
Also keep in mind that 01-02 and 03+ use different systems to control the A/C. 01-02 uses a ground to trigger the A/C on whereas your 04 looks for a signal from the BCM over the vehicle serial bus. I chose to go with an 01 for mine for 2 reasons, first is that it was available and the second was that 01 works as closely to the 94-99 style 6.5 system as any of the DMAX's. 02-04 uses a different ECM as 01 was the only year that had the seperate output for the ABS controller. Also 02 uses a different code for it's bus, and 03+ is another.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:19
Time to post up my updates. Been getting quite a bit done on it here lately.

Things still going slowly as my money will be tied up until the middle of MAYhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif. I've got my gasket sets coming along with head bolts, glow plugs(3 were bad), water pump, and will order my injectors when my money gets freed up again. I also got my trans kit and ordered my ALTO clutches and TRANSGO parts, and will get my precision converter next month as well. Found out you can piece a SC3 together on your own for under $700 VS suncoasts $965. I'l also be ordering my EFILIVE as soon as money is available as well. Also picked up my manual shift transfer case on TUESDAY from ORANGE CITY while I was out picking up my left side head gasket(GM is on backorder for left side grade B's, but a dealer in OCALA had one in stock). And my ring and pinion sets should hopefully be off backorder the first of the month as well.

Now I have to go back to working on other peoples stuff so I can afford mine againhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/sad.gif. Hopefully the end of MAY and the drivetrain will be done.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:19
Things unfortunately have had to slow down as my finances ran out, but I have that back in order now and am getting back on to this project as much as I can. I'm getting married the end of this month, so progress will be sporadic. The engine is most of the way back together, and the PENSACOLA remans are in it. MOST of my parts are in or will be in this week. I still have to iron out my air intake set-up as a standard DMAX one will run the hood, and the fatermarkets sit even higher. And I will most likely be calling DIAMOND EYE for my exhaust as they are the only ones selling a true 4" exhaust for a SUBURBAN for a reasoneable price, and will probably go with a CORSA muffler as exhaust drone will be a concern. My front and rear gear sets are finally in after waiting 3 weeks for them to get off backorder from AAM, and PRECISION will be shipping my converter out tommorrow. DACCO in TAMPA got me all of the ALTO powerpacks, converter flow valve, TRANSGO shift kit, and an ATSG manual for $721 after taxes and freight. I also got in my KENNEDY wear plate for the T-case, and a KENNEDY lift pump as I liked his design better than the TTS.

Unfortunately though I have to get the engine, trans, and front diff done before I can get the engine bolted back in as the puzzle will be tight and dizzying to get them all in there. Still hoping that I can have it running by the first of next month though, wish me luck.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:20
Well the engine is back together, and the transfer case has the wear plate installed in it. Unfortunately the input and rear output shaft seals that the aftermarket carries don't fit the XHD case, so I have to go to the dealer in the morning to get those(the front output fit perfect though). My PRECISION converter will be in tommorrow, and I have the rest of the trans parts already. My new radiator came in today as well from CARQUEST(my discount got it down to about $430 vs AZ's $500), but the UPS people looked like they played football with ithttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad.gif. The box had several holes in it, and the fins on the engine side of it were almost all flattened out. Not to mention it had 2 BAD spots where it had stuff sat on it and flattened out the tubes(one spot had cracked the tubes). So I'm waiting on another radiator as I wouldn't take this onehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif. I also got m yEFILIVE ordered today from FLEECE, and they are supposed to be flashing my TCM tommorrow so I can get it back next week.

If I had it to do over again though, I would just have bought an 01 2500HD pick-up and put a topper on it. MAN this is ALOT of work to work out the details.

Not many pics as I keep forgetting the camera in the house while I'm in the shop. I walked out and snapped a few though.
Heres the engine back together.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0943.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0943.jpg)

And the parts are beggining to take over my shop. This is about half of what I still have left for parts to go in it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0944.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0944.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0945.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0945.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:21
Transfer case is done now, and the front diff has 3.42's in it now as well. I decided to pull the front axle shafts out and do the CV boots while I was this far into it since they are 14 years old, and I also packed some grease into the front hub bearings while I was at it.

My other half is busting my chops over this though.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0952.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0952.jpg)
My new PI converter came in and she said my SUBURBAN is now gay since I am putting something in it that is yurple.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:21
Problem #999 or 1000 on the list. I got my tranny all apart and cleaned up for the most part and began re-assembly. Ran into some problems with my ALTO powerpacks. The C1 pack is roughly .041 thicker than my old pack, the C2 is .031 thicker, the C3 is only .005 thicker, and the C4 is .027 thicker. The problem is that C2-C4 aren't adjustable, they just have a range that they have to fall into. The C3 and C4 shouldn't be a major issue I don't think, but C2 is. The clearance range on the C2 is .070-.085 according to ALTO, and I have .023 now. I can get a new plate for the C1 to correct it, and I still need to try the C3's and C4's to see how they fit in yet. I'm going to re-use the C5's as all of the old clutches still looked brand new after 162K miles, but all of the sealings rings and apply pistons were hard as a rock. So it looks like my money saving build will actually cost in the endhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif, so much for trying to save $300 by piecing it together myself.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Well MIKE L saved me again. Called him up and talked it over with him and he advised me on how to re-stack the C2's using 7(he said that 8 would be overkill anyways) and I've got another C1 backing plate coming to correct the C1 clearance. Unfortunately it will be MONDAY before I can get back to work on it, I've got to get hitched tommorrow so I'm going to be busy this weekendhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Trans is done now. Got it all back together and everything measured out within speck except my C1's were a little tight(I have .082" and MIKE reccomended .090-.105, the next plate thinner would have given me .125 though). Still waiting on my connectors for the trans lines though, the GM parts book lists the wrong ones for an 01 so I hope he got me the right ones comin now. I'm hoping tommorrow I can get it close to going back in the BURB.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:22
Got some more done today.

Here's the trans all finished up with my yurple converter in it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0958.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0958.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0959.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0959.jpg)

And the two mated back together just about ready to go in the BURB.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0962.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0962.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0963.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0963.jpg)

I got the new firewall sound pad installed today and hopefully tommorrow I can get a little welding done and slide her in for the final time.

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:23
Well today was a productive day. Got the engine and tranny back in the BURB, installed the front diff, transfer case, and the front driveshaft. Got em all in and tightened down and most of the accesories on it as well and filled the front diff, engine, transfer case, and tranny up with fluids. My next BIG project will be wiring followed by installing my intercooler, then installing a 1/2" feed line from the tank up to where ever I mount the lift pump at, and then swapping out the rear gears to 3.42's. I also called up ALLIGATOR PERFORMANCE and ordered a CORSA muffler, DIAMOND EYE 4" SUBURBAN exhaust, and an AFE stage 1 intake. My EFILIVE came in last FRIDAY as well as a new 1410 series yoke for my 14 bolt. Hopefully my TCM gets back from Brayden here soon as I will need it once the wiring is finished up.

And now for some pictures.

The engine bay with the new sound pad installed.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0964-1.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0964-1.jpg)

And later on in the day it all came together.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0965.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0965.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0966.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0966.jpg)

It's a TIGHT fit, but you can just get to the fill plug to fill her up with fluid. I did have to grind alot of the ribs off of the extension housing though to get clearance on the torsion bar crossmember.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0971.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0971.jpg)

And the 01 front driveshaft dropped right in and fit perfectly. You can see in the pic though that the shift lever for the transfer case is just barely missing the tranny, so I will have to grind part of the transmission mounting boss off to clear it.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0969.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0969.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-06-2009, 20:23
Well I started the day by removing the fuel lines from the donor and putting them in the shop to put on tommorrow. Then I decided to tackle the wiring and get started there. Managed to get most all of the old engine wiring out and most of it laid out as to how to put the new back in. I also pulled the cluster out and redid the glow plug circuit as my 95 powered it but the DMAX grounds it.

The cluster is out and wiring getting sorted out.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0972.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0972.jpg)

The cluster before.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0973.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0973.jpg)

And after. You can see the jumper I installed to the power that would have been for the DRL(my 95 doesn't have daytime running lights) to where it used to be grounded. Picking the copper off the plastic is alot more work than you would think to boot.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0975.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0975.jpg)

Midway through cutting out the engine and uneeded connectors.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0976.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0976.jpg)

End of the day. Got almost all of it out and can start taping it back up tommorrow after I fix some of GM's SH!TTY splices. No wonder these trucks have developed so many grounding issues, GM did some HORRIBLE splices inside of the wiring harness's.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0978.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0978.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0977.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0977.jpg)

I always end up with a few extra pieces after a project like thishttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/hihi.gif.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0979.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0979.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-10-2009, 21:25
Don't have any pics, but I have been busting my tail on this thing all week. My pins for the fuse block just came in today so I can get back to wiring again soon. While I was waiting on my terminals for the fuse panel, I decided to hook up the transfer case shift linkage and I also got a shift linkage mount bracket fabbed up. the DURAMAX shift cable will not hook up to the early cloumn, so I had to buy a new shift cable(mine wouldn't stay on the shift arm as the nylon in the end that locks it on was worn) and custom fab my bracket as the 95 cable is 2 inches longer than the DMAX cable from the mount point to the shift arm. It is pretty tight under there as the 2" setback put the cable mount RIGHT next to the U-joint for the front shaft. I was able to get a 1/4" of clearance on the crossmember and a 1/2" on the shaft(may ned up bringing it in closer to the shaft if it hits the crossmember). So I can now shift it through it's gears in the trans and transfer case.

I pulled the tank out and removed my 5/16" return line and opened it up and installed a 1/2" feed line and will use my old 3/8" feed for my return and I have the fuel cooler off and am about ready to mount it under the truck as well as my KENNEDY lift pump. I discovered that the DMAX metal lines will not clear the steering linkage on my SUB, so I hooked up my nylon covered diesel line right to the quick connects and was able to get them over the lock portion so I could double clamp em on there. And I will just use nylon covered diesel flexible line for the bulk of the fuel system. The tranny cooler metal lines didn't clear my front axle mount with enough room for mmy liking even after some tweaking, so I got some AN hose and AN fittings and will just plumb the cooler system that way. This really sucks as I had already had the original lines done up with hydraulic line in place of the old rubber line.

While the fuel tank was out I did the rear gears today since that BIG opening made getting to the diff EASY as piehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif. The GM 14 bolt 10.5" rear axle is actually pretty easy to build compared to the DANAS and CHRYSLER corporates I am used to building up. The tough part was torquing the pinion nut. This required a 4' 3/4" breaker bar and socket to match and locking the pinion yoke down in my vise. This allowed me to stand on the bar as my impact with 600 foot pounds could BARELY budge it(I had it in the press to install the front bearing and bring up the slack to the crush sleeve, even at 6 tons of pressure the crush sleeve didn't compress). It looks like I lucked out as my G80 looked BRAND NEW inside. I went ahead and pulled it apart and inspected the governor, and all the clutches were good and tight and all of the governor teeth were intact. I'm going to pull the rear hubs tommorrow and replace the axle seals since I'm this far into it. And hopefully get the fuel system plumbed as well.

I got my shipment from ALLIGATOR today, and will hopefully get my TCM tommorrow. That CORSA muffler is one BIG SOB now, espescially compared to the diamond eye that came in my exhaust kit. So I will have a 6.5 3" downpipe and a 4" straight through muffler for sale soon. Little by little I'm getting this thing tackled, but it's the little details that will KILL you in a project like this. I spent almost 2 hours trying to bend and fit the fuel lines in only to find they wouldn't clear the steering linkage after doing ALOT of bending and cutting on em. And you don't realize how much time you can spend bending and fitting a 1/2" feee tube and soldering and epoxying it in. The best way to describe it is an old saying we used in drag racing, "OEM = A complete list of all items that MUST be replaced or modified when building a performance vehicle."

THEFERMANATOR
06-15-2009, 20:53
I don't have many pics tonight, but I did make some headway with it. I got impatient today so I got the harness mostly finished up and decided to do a test fire to make sure it was all working properly. Well the first 3 attempts it just wheeled over and wouldn't fire a lickhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif. It was building rail pressure and such, and I had disabled the theft system with EFILIVE. So after about an hour of head scratching it dawned on mehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/33.gif, I had disconnected the FICM because I was doing some welding on the downpipe hanger on the engine. Hooked up the FICM and after about 3 seconds of cranking she came to lifehttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/thumbsup.gifhttp://www.dieseltowingresource.com/images/smilies/banana.gif. After about 20 seconds of running it must have learned the new balance rates a bit and started smoothing out it's idle and sounded pretty good. SO hopefully this will give me a second wind and I can get this thing wrapped up soon and on the road.

Now for a few pics.
Heres the harness mostly together and ready for a test fire.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0982.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0982.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0981.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0981.jpg)

Heres the new location for the glow plug/intake heater fuse. It is right underneath and in front of the ABS pump and right behind where the drivers side battery will go. This also helped in the problem that the DMAX battery cables has too short of a lead to reach to my PDC for my 95, so I used the fuse block as a junction block and hooked on the 6 guage cable from the old harness on the battery side of the fuse block and this got me a good power cable to the PDC.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0983.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0983.jpg)

And heres the PDC almost finished up. I ran out of tape so I couldn't put the flex covering over it tonight. Didn't come out to bad for a spliced together mess.(And don't ask me how many solders and splices I had to make in that one little area, it's a good thing that I like electrical)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0985.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0985.jpg)

And a special treat, the audio sucks but you get the idea.
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/?action=view&current=HPIM0984.flv

THEFERMANATOR
06-17-2009, 20:13
I had a shorter day today as I have to go down tommorrow and get one of the new exhaust pipes expanded so it will fit onto my CORSA muffler. I got MOST all of the wiring in and done today as well as the driveshafts. Since I needed to have the pipe done I decided to take my time and make the wiring as neat as possible. After finishing up the wiring and putting the shafts in I started her up and put it in gear to see if it would go in and it dropped into forward and reverse right away. I also did 3 starts on it with no check engine light so I may be OK in the MIL department. The tachometer works fine since I am driving it off the alternator just like a 6.5 did. I still need to check my speed outputs as I decided to try and use the ECM's and bypas the VSSB(if they don't work I left the wires there so I can hook it back up).

Heres a shot of the engine with the harness's in place(ECM and TCM will be mounted last after everything is together).
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0986.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0986.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0987.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0987.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0998.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0998.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1000.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1000.jpg)

Heres the PDC all finished up.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0988.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0988.jpg)

And I spent some time and made an updated insert to go in my PDC for correct fuses and relays.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/95fuseblock-A.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/95fuseblock-A.jpg)

My toggle switches in and my QUDZILLA guage.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0990.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0990.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-17-2009, 20:14
The fuel cooler and you can also see the driveshaft.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0993.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0993.jpg)

And a few underside shots to show how tight the fit is.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0994.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0994.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0996.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0996.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0997.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM0997.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-19-2009, 21:03
Well I got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and I spent today cutting away at the radiator support to fit the DMAX intercooler and radiator in. It is a TIGHT fit between the radiator and fan clutch, but after about 4 hours of cutting and modifying I was able to get enough room to put the fan clutch on with the radiator in place which leaves me an inch of clearance between the clutch and core and 2 1/4" from the fan blade tips to the core. I decided to make it a close fit and severely modify the radiator support to accomadate a stock cooler and radiator rather than modifying the radiator, intercooler, and support. Once I get it boxed back together it will be plenty stout as I can sit on it now without it buckling and I am no where near done reinforcing it.

Here's a few shots of the exhaust. That 4" pipe looks HUGE compared to my old 3" pipe I had before.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1002.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1002.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1001.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1001.jpg)

And the CORSA muffler is a MONSTER compared to the 4" DIAMOND EYE that came in the kit. I ended up having to relocate the front hanger forward so I could move the muffler forward and I had to modify the middle hanger some to allow this as well.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1003.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1003.jpg)

Not a job for the timid.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1007.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1007.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1009.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1009.jpg)

Removed just a little bit bit of metal from it so far.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1008.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1008.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
06-27-2009, 21:07
I guess I've been slacking on updating this one. I got to driver today and feel her out a bit and the power of the DMAX is SWEET in this SUB. It has more power with 3.42's in it than my 6.5 EVER had with the 4.10's. I have run into a few bugs that have to be ironed out though. I'm leaving on my honeymoon on WEDNESDAY, so thankfully I have a back-up vehicle for my trip.

First off the heater return pipe from the heater cores to the lower radiator hose developed a leak in it right at the weld for the retaining arm.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1014.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1014.jpg)

So I'll have to get a new tube for when I get back. Also I have 2 codes that won't go away that I can find no reason for, P0748 and P0778. Also I have very little power in 1st gear and lots of blue smoke if I giver her more than about 20% throttle. This only seems to happen in 1st as 2nd and 3rd pulled VERY strongly. Also my tow/haul mode isn't functioning properly as it gives me VERY hard shifts when engaged and holds them out ridicuously long and provides NO grade braking what so ever. I wasn't able to get her up fast enough where I was driving to test out the OD/LO function.

The A/C doesn't engage for some reason so I'll have to do some digging tommorrow with EFILIVE and see if I can figure out why the ECM isn't commanding the A/C relay(A/C works when I jumpered it).

Heres a pic showing the TCM and you can see the ECM as well tucked in by the drivers side battery tray.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1011.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1011.jpg)

I haven't finished up the airbox yet, so for now the filter is just laying in there.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1013.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1013.jpg)

Another engine bay pic.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1012.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1012.jpg)

And a pic of the front end with my projector headlights. I did have the grill and such on it, but had to take it back off to get to the bolts that hold the drivers battery tray in place.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1010.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1010.jpg)

Hopefully I can get ahold of Brayden before I leave and get his opinion on what to check for the 2 codes and also about low power in 1st as I think it is a torque management issue, but this TCM is locked to the extent that I can't even scan it with EFILIVE for the scanner portion(can only pull codes out of it).

DmaxMaverick
06-27-2009, 22:08
Both codes are TCM related, and likely the reason the T/H doesn't work properly. Some tranny features are disabled when specific DTC's are present.

P0748 sets when the transmission control module (TCM) detects one of the following conditions:
A short to power.
A short to ground.
High or low resistance in PC solenoid A.
High or low resistance in PC solenoid A wiring.

P0778 sets when the transmission control module (TCM) detects one of the following conditions:
A short to power.
A short to ground.
A high or low resistance in PC solenoid B
A high or low resistance in PC solenoid B wiring.

Both will also inhibit TCC function. During this, compression braking will not be effective (grade braking).

If this was a one-time error, the codes will remain for several start cycles, and as long as the DTC is stored in history, the performance/function of the tranny will be effected. You need to find out if these are real time, or stored in history (read TCM codes). If in history, clearing of the TCM codes or several warm up cycles will be necessary to return to normal.

THEFERMANATOR
06-28-2009, 08:09
The 2 codes trip everytime I turn the engine over. I can clear them and turn the key on and they won't come back until I turn it over again to start it. I checked both solonoids and have 5.8 ohms on A and 6.0 ohms on B both at the solonoids and at the connector for the TCM. Neither circuit showed any resistance to ground or power and I could find no pinched wires. Also these 2 codes are not turning on the check engine light even though they say they should. I'm thinking this is a problem with my TCM as it is a one off and I'm having some other issues with the engine that I think are TCM related. In 1st gear I have very little power, and if I give it more throttle it blows out blue smoke. Let off the throttle and let it shift into second and it immediately clears up and takes off like a scalded dog. And on a 2-1 downshift it will actually lose power when it goes into 1st and start rolling out blue smoke again. I'm trying to get ahold of the programmer before I leave on my trip to see what he thinks about it.

THEFERMANATOR
06-29-2009, 12:04
Got one more bug figured out this morning. WONDERFUL ALLDATA got me again. I charged the A/C but the compressor wouldn't turn on. I dug up everything I could from ALLDATA about the A/C trigger and it clearly said that it looks for a ground from the A/C control head to trigger the compressor, THIS IS FALSE! It looks for a 12V+ signal to trigger the compressor to come on. So now I have to go back into my PDC and remove the A/C request relay and hook the A/C sense wire up to my A/C request wire from the 95 head since it powers the circuit on.

THEFERMANATOR
08-13-2009, 12:27
The latest update to my saga after some time off for my honeymoon.

After fighting with the PENSACOLA DIESEL remans for almost 2 months of not running right I broke down and bought a set of GM injectors and now she lives. Here's a copy of my latest update from another forum.

Since it's about 95% done now I took some pics for the insurance company today and figured I would put em here as well. I still have to finish up the air filter mount, put yet another shift shaft seal in the tranny(can't figure out why it is fine for a few eeks then starts leaking, this will be the 3rd seal) and get the windshield leak fixed. Most of the front end is back on and it's in mostly driveable condition as well though and waiting for insurance and a tag so I can go break her in a bit.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1042.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1042.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
08-13-2009, 12:27
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1043.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1043.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1044.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1044.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1045.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1045.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1046.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1046.jpg)

THEFERMANATOR
08-13-2009, 12:29
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1041.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1041.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1047.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1047.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1051.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1051.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1050.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1050.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1048.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1048.jpg)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1049.jpg (http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/DURAMAX%20ALLISON%20conversion/HPIM1049.jpg)

More Power
08-13-2009, 15:10
Congrats! Looking good!

Jim

THEFERMANATOR
08-24-2009, 15:56
Made a few videos today of it, still working on the tuning some but all in all pretty stout.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6Taop8xnBo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFtvXp3dIws
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrM_prRfqpY

93GMCSierra
08-24-2009, 21:13
Very Nice, and Congrats on finishing a great project.

THEFERMANATOR
08-27-2009, 13:40
I finished the last of it up today and got my airbox done and replaced my throttle pedal assembly(origanal 95 and was getting a ghost peddle to it that was scary with the DMAX), so I decided to try out a tune I built with EFILIVE last night. I know the 3.42's are holding me back a bunch, but a little less defueling from the MAF and this is what I got.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6atnUMuwuE

jbplock
08-29-2009, 06:06
AWESOME Dmax Burb!! Congrats http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon14.gif

THEFERMANATOR
08-31-2009, 12:03
I had to run in to TAMPA today for some parts and I got to do roughly 60% highway and 40% stop and go driving today and it averaged 19.5MPG. The highway driving was running 62-65, and I also got on it 3 times pretty good to pull out into traffic. Not too bad for milage considering my DAKOTA would be lucky to get 15-16 doing the same run, and it weighs in over a ton less.

THEFERMANATOR
01-10-2010, 11:35
Well I finally took the BURB on her first road trip this week. I sold a transfer case I had to a guy in North Carolina and the wife wanted to see snow. So we loaded up the BURB with clothes, us, transfer case, and the 2 dogs and headed north. All in all the trip went as smooth as could be other than now I have to go wash all the salt off and it's barely 40 degrees here. We traveled almost 1800 miles and I averaged 20.005 MPG for the whole trip. The milage really dropped off when the sun would go down and the air temps dropped as my EGT's would go up about 20-50 degrees at night and my boost would go up .5-1 pound as well. I figured I was getting close to 23 during the day driving, but at night it would drop off to about 18. Only needed the 4 wheel drive for a short stretch to get up to OBER GATLINBURG as she was fishtailing pretty bad going up those steep roads. I was also pleasantly surprised by how well she started in the cold. I wasnt able to plug in the block heater, but after sitting overnight it had warmed up to about 8 degrees at the motel we were at Friday Morning and she fired right up without hardly any smoke at all. Now I need to go clean her up, but heres a cold start video for you guys.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KybncEUsN0

westerncorvette
01-05-2011, 11:54
I just want to say you've done a great write up on this!

We are currently swapping out a 454 in a 98 Chevy 3500 4x4 to an 07 Duramax. We ordered the conversion manual but I have a question that I couldnt find answered.

How did you go about hooking up the gauges? On the 454 the senders (fuel, oil, coolant etc) go directly to the gauge cluster. But it looks like on the Duramax the senders go to the computer then to the cluster. Are the signals compatible? I wasnt sure if the sending units have the same resistance and would read correctly.

Thanks again!

Les

THEFERMANATOR
01-06-2011, 19:15
On the 01-02 DMAX it uses the same oil pressure sending unit as the older 6.5's and such did, so that one was easy. The coolant temp sender for the guage was remote mounted to a tee between the engine and heater core as I couldn't find an easily accessible location to tap and put it into the block after I had it swapped in. Later model trucks run both through the ECM before the cluster, so you would have to add in both sending units if you retain your stock guages.

westerncorvette
04-12-2011, 14:46
Well just about done with this swap but a quick question. The computer isnt commanding the compressor on when I hit the button but can command it with the scan tool.

The Lt Green wire from the AC switch goes through a high pressure cutout switch then to the AC request at the computer. But the Duramax is different. So did you just wire the AC switch into Drk Green/Wht computer wire for the compressor relay control?

Thanks

Les

THEFERMANATOR
04-12-2011, 21:11
Well just about done with this swap but a quick question. The computer isnt commanding the compressor on when I hit the button but can command it with the scan tool.

The Lt Green wire from the AC switch goes through a high pressure cutout switch then to the AC request at the computer. But the Duramax is different. So did you just wire the AC switch into Drk Green/Wht computer wire for the compressor relay control?

Thanks

Les

I used the origanal signal wire from the BURBS A/C control to trigger the ECM, and hooked in the DURAMAX's low and high pressure cut-off switches like they would be in a stock DMAX. I believe this was the wire that origanally triggerred teh A/C clutch relay is the one I hooked to the ECM trigger wire as the 6.5 used the low pressure switch to contro lthe clutch and teh DMAX uses the relay.

whiiiiin
04-20-2011, 11:33
Hello.

First of all I must say you have done a really good job on your conversion, it is a real "sleeper". It was a great inspiration for me to do the same.
You are probably tired of answering the many questions about the Dmax conversion, but I do not know if anyone else has so much knowledge about this as what you have.
As to the question. I am planning to put a dmax in my 1999 Chevy K3500 6.5 td, and I have a cheap 2006 Chevrolet Express on hand, with the lly engine and 4l85e transmission. So there I was wondering, is there any special considerations must be taken since it is a lly engine from a Chevy Express and not a lb7 from a pick-up? And wondered whether the lly engine has other motormount and is larger or higher than lb7 engine so it will be harder to fit?

I actually think it will be an advantage to using this solution since the original transfer case will bolt right on, and it will be easier to get 4 wheel drive to work ( lever in the floor), or what do you think?

Sorry if the english is bad (from Norway)

Thanks in advance.

THEFERMANATOR
04-20-2011, 14:53
The 06 van engine is basically an LBZ, but the ECM is pinned differently due to the 4L85E trans. The trans will be your limiting factor though as teh 4L85E just can't handle alot of torque. There will be some pretty big differrences between teh van and the truck engine though as far as teh plumbing goes as teh intake is completely different between the two. Member pussow at thedieselplace.com has done the van engine into an 86 body style truck and would no alot more about the mounting differences.