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View Full Version : Hey all, questions on installing manual boost controller



black_noise
06-28-2009, 20:15
So my dad was using the 95 k2500 6.5TD and pulling a disc home.

He said it was "doggy" (underpowered) and I told him all it needed was a boost gauge (So I can read the boost) and a manual boost controller set to maybe 6 PSI so its got the power whenever.

I pretty well understand the install of the boost gauge, but the manual controller... where to buy?
Or how to make?

I searched about 6 months ago, but couldnt find the same info.


Once installing the controller, could it be mounted on the bracket under the air box, and then does the vacume line going to old vacume actuator need to be plugged.

What else would need to be done?


Thanks in advance fellow rattlers.

DmaxMaverick
06-28-2009, 21:01
The mechanical wastegate controller will replace the vacuum actuator you have now. It will be mounted in the same place, and needs no other accommodation for installation.

Unless you also include an aftermarket EPROM (the "chip"), you'll have to leave your existing vacuum wastegate control intact and functional, except it won't be attached to the actuator (which you will remove). Plug the line. As long as you adjust the controller to stay within OEM boost parameters, the PCM will be happy. If vacuum falls off (disconnected/leaking line, bad pump, bad solenoid valve), the PCM will complain and take away your power (defuel). Aftermarket chips bypass this check, which allow you to completely remove the vacuum system (even the EGR system). Many of them also remove the failsafe (boost limit), which can lead to meltdown if the boost pressure isn't closely monitored and controlled. There are several ways to work around this, but a good aftermarket chip is the best method.

The mechanical wastegate controller can be sourced through several aftermarket suppliers. Or, you can make your own. It's nothing more than a spring that holds the wastegate closed against exhaust backpressure (in a convenient, costly package). The exhaust backpressure forces the WG open against the spring tension, when your set boost level is attained. Definitely include a boost pressure gage with your upgrade. It'll help keep the PCM happy, and the iron in one piece.

black_noise
06-30-2009, 17:16
thank you for the info