PDA

View Full Version : 1994 Fuel Lift Pump R&r



94blue
09-24-2009, 13:15
I hate to ask because it looks simple. Is there anything special to replacing the lift pump besides cracking the nuts and removing. Will the fuel lines dump fuel everywhere or are there some tricks? I read all I could find here and can't seem to get the details.
Thanks,
94Blue

More Power
09-24-2009, 14:08
Do it when the fuel tank is low (< 1/2 tank). Yes, some fuel will leak out. It also helps to lift the front of the truck, like on ramps. Have everything ready before loosening the fuel line fittings. Have some rags and the new pump at the ready. Use the correct flare-nut wrenches, or you'll risk rounding the fuel line nuts.

Jim

Robyn
09-24-2009, 16:48
The amount of fuel will be minimal as long as the front is higher than the back.

Once the new pump is in place, you need to bleed the lines again.

Open the bleeder on the filter and then activate the lift pump (94 has the fuel pump relay and fuse in the little panel above AC unit on the firewall
Unsnap the fuse and touch the back area of the fuse where is has the bare notch to the + post and this will run the fuel pump.

Once the fuel flows free from the filter bleeder without air, your set.

Good luck

Robyn

94blue
09-26-2009, 07:58
Thanks guys,
I don't have the "special' wrenches. Any wrench substitutes or just be carefull?
Jay

JFerg65
09-26-2009, 08:14
Go to sears and buy flare-nut wrenches. There is a reason they make them. Trust me... I learned my lesson.

DmaxMaverick
09-26-2009, 09:28
Ditto! $20 worth of wrenches is way cheaper than what you are using them on. B-nuts and pliers (or worse) is a bad combination, which is where it usually ends up. If you don't like Sears' prices, get them from Harbor Freight. They work, for a lot less money.

94blue
09-26-2009, 16:52
Gotta luv it.
I replaced the OPS and now the lift pump is pumping. Ofcourse to replace the OPS I had to get the "special" socket from auto parts for $7 and an hour of wasted time. While getting the OPS replaced I apparently leaned too hard on the metal cooliing line coming out of the thermostat manifold and cracked it. BTW the truck cranked up but then I saw water gushing out and had to shut her down. Not sure where to look to start the process of fixing this cracked cooling pipe.
Thx for the help though.
94Blue

Warren96
09-28-2009, 09:51
That leak you mentioned must be the funky looking fitting on the engine side of the thermostat housing. Type ''pesty heater'' into the search engine at the top of the page and you will have a wealth of info on how to replace it.

94blue
09-28-2009, 10:43
Nice name"pesky thingy"
I will and thanks, I already started loosening the tstat housing bolts since the part that broke off looks like it was cast in with the housing.
94Blue,

94blue
09-28-2009, 14:27
Read the thread on that stupid part. I will R & R like the Robyn post from 07'. Mine was so corroded that I could tell it was a screw in piece. I see the light. Maybe that is where I've been loosing coolant, ya think?
Love the suburban, But maintenance gets away from me since I have a company truck,
Thanks,

trbankii
09-29-2009, 07:01
Getting ready to do this in my '93 - lift pump, OPS, and fuel lines themselves. Couldn't believe how corroded the lines are! I was afraid that as soon as I started messing with them I'd likely crack something and open up a whole new set of problems.