HAM Radio/APRS Install - Xtended Cab GMC (Hope it's not off-topic)

[WyoDutch]

When I took delivery of my '09 3500 extended cab, I knew I'd be installing some HAM radio equipment and I wanted the cleanest, clutter-free install I could do.

First off... what IS "APRS"? It's short for "Automated Position Reporting System" in brief, you connect a GPS unit to a 2-meter HAM radio and the rig automatically beacons your position and other information to a digipeater or "igate". The data goes to internet sites where interested parties (families and employers generally) can monitor and even exchange digital messages with you. (If you're interested.. go to www.aprs.fi (http://www.aprs.fi) and in the 'track callsign' block... input KE7RFL to see how it all works).

I decided that the best location for the transmitter was in a "Du-Ha" box placed under the rear seat. Using a 'Tac-Comm' case, the radio and APRS control module were then located in the Du-Ha. Power is from FUSED connectors from the battery to a power distribution panel in the Du-Ha. The antenna is an NMO (drilled a hole in the roof of the cab) with the cable running under the headliner and down the pillar... Out of sight.

Here's the Du-Ha and the electronics in the Tac-Comm case.


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The next hurdle was where to locate the GPS unit where I could see and touch, but not have it pasted, glued or otherwise hanging on the dash. The perfect solution was the "Ram-A-Can" mount from RAM, with the NUVI 350 held in a cradle. The power wire plugs into one of the receptacles (cigarette lighter jack) on the dash and a single wire connects the GPS to the rear-seat electronics. Slick as a whistle. In the photo, you can see that I don't have the Ram-A-Can pushed down all the way. I left it up a bit just for the picture. Now... the other beercan holder will get a second Ram-A-Can which will hold the control panel and microphone for the 'voice' unit that will also be placed in the Du-Ha. General Motors sells additional 2-can holders for the princely sum of $90... so when all is done., I will have 2 Ram-A-Cans and still have 2 empty can holders on the console. I can connect the audio output of the GPS unit to the MP3 connector on the dash and get the directions over the Bose sound system.... freaky!


Any other HAMS out there?



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[Robyn]

Thanks for sharing.

I am not a "HAM" but do appreciate good radio equipment.

I have a presidient HR 2510 in the big rig that has the 11 meter (CB) channels enabled.

I will sometimes (if bored) go over on the 10 meter side and listen to some of the banter.

Great Radio for my needs in communicating with the yard masters, loader operators and dispatchers (Dump trucking is the game)

Had the 2510 since 95 and its been flawless. Really gets out good on a pair of twin sticks out on the mirrors.

This radio will outwork just about any regular CB even without bolting on any power.

Hope you enjoy the new rig and the radio equipment. :D


Robyn

[WyoDutch]

That HR2510 is one of the best. They knew what they were doing when they made that radio.

My own CB isn't of that quality.. it's a Cobra 148GTL. I sent it down to Texas to a CB wizard who tuned it up and made some other adjustments... I run a Wilson 5000 antenna with it and it does pretty good.

[DmaxMaverick]

Very nice, clean install!

One thing you should make note of, is power usage. It doesn't take much, as we've seen, to drain batteries below starting ability over a day or two of idle time (parked). These rolling supercomputers are very thirsty, without any help from us, although the OEM system is designed to minimize the chance of dead batteries over a 2-4 week period. Your truck has a RAP (Retained Accessory Power) circuit, which disconnects power to certain connected components after a period of key-off time (which can be adjusted via the BCM). The direct battery connection (obviously) isn't included in this system, and neither is the power outlet and cigar lighter. A relatively simple solution to unexpected flat batteries is to maintain your direct battery connection, but relay it from an RAP circuit, and you can do the same for your power outlets. Cell phone, XM, radar detector, etc. power supplies can drain the batteries below starting ability in less than 2 days, even when the devices are either not attached or powered on (but still plugged into the outlets - there are a couple threads regarding this). Off doesn't always mean "Off". If you must have full time power, an option could be to isolate your batteries so you would at least always have one at full charge, or add a 3rd battery and isolate it for your equipment during key-off periods (may be the best option in really cold country). You also have a couple options for higher alternator output, if more power is needed (higher capacity single, or duals).

I'm not a Ham, but have installed a few mobile systems, among dozens of other power accessories. Not at all painful if done smartly.

[WyoDutch]

"... One thing you should make note of, is power usage. It doesn't take much, as we've seen, to drain batteries below starting ability over a day or two of idle time (parked)."

Great point. In my Suburban (non-diesel), I installed a second battery with an isolator so I couldn't drain the main battery. For the Sierra, I've ordered a "Power Guard from West Mountain Radio.. Here's their advertising blurb for the $99.95 gadget...

"PWRguard protects the radio, the power supply and the battery from damage. It is an automatic safety switch that is inserted between a power source and the load. It switches OFF whenever the voltage is over 15 volts or under 11.5 volts. It handles up to 40 amps, and uses an F E T....no relays.... to switch. PWRguard protects a battery from over discharge by sensing the average voltage under load. Latches off for low battery, and resets automatically if the battery is re-charged. Ideal for a battery operated ham station."

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Incidentally... I've always been suspicious of my own ability to properly install automotive electric/electronics.. particulary the wiring. I stumbled-on something called the "Anderson Power-Pole" connectors a few years ago. It makes a world of difference in the ease and finished look of an installation. You attach a color-coded plug to the wires and that plug in turn slides into a receptacle on the distribution panel. Everything is colorcoded and fused. Helps to eliminate shorts and mismatches.


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