Stock suspension on '84 burb?

[mathias]

1984 Chevy Suburban K10 6.2L

(I did not see a spec on image size, so if mine are too big, please let me know and I can reduce them.)

It is new to me, and I just got it running and on the road. It's not level, so I'm just trying to figure out what is stock, and if something is wrong. Granted, I do have a tool box in the back, and it might be 200 lbs.

Measurements from ground to the bottom of the bumpers (31x10.50-15 tires):
rear bumper - 18" off ground
front bumper - 19.25" off ground

http://diverseproject.com/images/suburban_1.jpg

Has quad shocks up front and air shocks on the back. Haven't tried pumping them up yet, but I don't like the idea of air shocks supporting the truck and contents. Unless that is the design...

http://diverseproject.com/images/suburban_2.jpg

Spacers on crossmember for tranny are used on one side and not the other:

http://diverseproject.com/images/suburban_4.jpg

Are the rear springs just worn out? Do I need new stock springs, or lifted springs to level it out? I will be carrying tools at all times, so I'm thinking about a 2-3" lifted set.

[DmaxMaverick]

Simply worn out (sagging) rear springs. Not uncommon for 80's 1/2 tons. You can replace with OEM (aftermarket replacements at OEM spec), or have them re-arced if in good shape otherwise (no cracks at the shackle eyes or serious corrosion). If you need a little more capacity to keep it level, helper springs or air shocks are a common solution, and is OK. The air shocks are probably there to correct the worn out springs, or it was used for towing a tongue-heavy trailer (or both). I do not recommend using "blocks" under the rear springs. Spring wrap is absolutely horrible, and the shaft angle never seems to be right (although you see a bunch of them on the road). If you install "lift" rear springs, it may be high in the front. Probably not a bad idea to replace all the springs, if you replace the rear. Lift or not, up to you, depending on how much ground clearance you need. 4" or less is marginal. More than that will require dropped steering components, or you'll be replacing ball joints just about annually, and bump-steer will have you in a ditch real quick if its heavy in the rear.

The tranny support is simply installed wrong. Those aren't spacers. The support should be against the frame, and the "spacers" should be on the top/nut side of the bolt, inside the frame. No biggie, unless something else is wrong and they had to be installed wrong to accommodate it. If there's no clearance issues, just install them correctly. Use NO washers with OEM style flanged bolts, bushings (the spacers) and nuts. Regular cap screws (common bolts) will cause frame cracking. Use OEM style. OK to use some Loc-Tite on the threads, if you wish. Inspect the frame in that location closely. It appears in the picture there may be some cracking around the bolt hole. If this is true, have some plates made to go inside the frame rail above the support, and bolt through them (do both sides). Weld them in place or not, up to you. If there are cracks from the inside edge of the frame, weld the plates in place along the inside egde (not inside the frame channel). It isn't uncommon to see them crack on the passenger side with the Diesels (torque). Also, check the front end of the torque support bar on the passenger side of the transfer case. They usually crack in two at the bend where it bolts at the front (leading to frame cracking). If the two torque converter cover supports (steel bars) are missing, the threads into the aluminum are probably stripped.

[Subzilla]

Looking hard at your profile pic, pay attention to where the bumpers are in relation to the 2 tone paint/moulding and the bottom of the body. It appears the back bumper is a good ways down compared to the front. I don't have my Sub to look at right now so I'm not sure how my bumpers sit. Also keep in mind the wheel openings are also different front to back. The back is smaller or doesn't open as high up as the front (see picture again). This always gives the '80's trucks a saggy illusion. My Blazer really looks like this and I thought it was sagging. Measurements actually revealed the rear is higher than the front.

Take off one of the front shocks on each side and your ride will greatly improve. The quad shocks look cool but do stiffen the ride.

[mathias]

Wow. Thanks for all the info! I don't need any more ground clearance, so I'll replace with stock springs and shocks, and augment with helper springs if necessary. And I'll spend some time underneath inspecting and correcting everything you mentioned.

[mathias]

That is a good point. The rear bumper does look low. I don't see anything obviously wrong/bent/replaced underneath, so maybe this is by design? Or maybe someone replaced it with the wrong bumper? It would be interesting to know how it compares with yours when you get a chance to look.

It may not be sagging at all. A quick measurement from the body to the ground seems to indicate that it is level. I'll have to park it on pavement sometime for a better check.

Re: the quad shocks, she rides like my old 1-ton truck used to. Like she needs another 1000lbs loaded on. I read that neither shock mount is appropriate for running single shocks, and if I really want to go back to singles, I need to replace the mounts. What happens if I don't replace the mount?

[Subzilla]

I've been running just one shock for the last 10 years on the Sub with a 4" lift and 35" tires and I don't see any cracks or fatigue with the original mounts. I wouldn't worry about it. If it does break, it won't be hard to fix. I don't understand why the mounts would only be designed for to handle a half of a dual shock - so to speak.

Maverick answered my long-time question about why my Blazer has a huge crack right at the passenger side frame/transfer case mount when I bought it. PO bolted a piece of metal there for reinforcement. I always wondered how the heck that would happen to a vehicle that seemed fairly non-abused/non-off-roaded when I bought it. Doesn't seemed to have gotten worse.

[Subzilla]

Looked at my Sub when I got home last night and it looks exactly like yours! Rear bumper is lower than the front bumper in relation to the body. Probably needs the clearance for the tailgate to lower.

[mathias]

Thanks for checking! I guess the stance is correct right now, so no work necessary there, but I have some checking to do underneath per Maverick.

Thanks guys!

[Edahall]

I checked my 2 diesel Suburbans and the 82 sits level but appears low in the back. However, my 90 looks level but actually is about 1" lower in the front probably due to the weight of the mighty Cummins.

[mathias]

I checked my 2 diesel Suburbans and the 82 sits level but appears low in the back. However, my 90 looks level but actually is about 1" lower in the front probably due to the weight of the mighty Cummins.

Thanks! I did some more checking, and there is a 3 part illusion. The lower fender well, the rear bumper is 1.5" lower than the front bumper, and my usual parking spot appears flat but isn't. Measuring to the bottom of the frame just inside of the wheels, the side I normally see is 1" low in the back. But the other side of the truck is 1" high in the back. Parked on pavement, it is level all the way around.

[Subzilla]

Measure twice, cut once or something like that??:)
Enjoy the ride! I've had my Sub for 13 years, put 200k miles on it (it's got 305k now) and love the ride, space, and ruggedness of it. I'm in the final stages of wrapping up a turbo install and am very eager to drive the awakened beast.

[AJMBLAZER]

Re: the quad shocks, she rides like my old 1-ton truck used to. Like she needs another 1000lbs loaded on. I read that neither shock mount is appropriate for running single shocks, and if I really want to go back to singles, I need to replace the mounts. What happens if I don't replace the mount?

The inner mount is pretty much the stock mount. Whoever told you that is wrong. That said, you can run the outers only as well. That's what I'm doing as there was a sale on the outer shocks a year ago when I got my Blazer.

Ditch the rear air shocks.
The suspension setup looks like a standard suspension with a lot of use. Kinda like mine actually.

I went with some ACDelco nitrogen shocks on mine and it rides pretty well but I think I'll upgrade to some bigger body shocks. I've run Bilstein HD's and Rough Country Nitro 9000's in the past and loved both, you just expect a bit less from the Rough Country's since they cost half as much.

[thirdstreettito]

Middle of my rear wheel well = 33". Middle of my front wheel well = 35 1/2". 83 K15 Suburban with 31x10.5R15 BFG A/T. Stock suspension.