Leaking injector

[81DIESEL84]

So I was looking for a diesel shortbed and i finally found one to add to my diesel family an 84 silverado. I brought it home about 260 miles and it didnt skip a beat it ran great. So after driving it localy for over a week i noticed hat one ofthe injectors is leaking. What should i do the prevoius owner told me that he had replacd them. Do i need to replace or what could be the problem? Thanks in Advance

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

You'll have to get a closer look and see where it's leaking. It's probably nothing more than a loose tubing nut or return line. Old return lines will crack and leak after many years.

A return line set is about $25. Don't improvise (it will just leak again, guaranteed). Get a good set from www.kennedydiesel.com (his kit also includes other really nice to have/needed parts), or another TDP Advertiser (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm).

[More Power]

Reman injectors have been know to leak between the two halves of the injector body. This is usually spotted soon after installation. If that's where yours is leaking you may be able to exchange it for another if you still have (was given) the receipt for the set.

Jim

[81DIESEL84]

Thank you guys i was looking for a site like this. There looks to be a lot of useful information. So while changing the injector should there be any precautions or procedures that i need to know about?

[JohnC]

First, make sure the little rubber return lines aren't the problem. Much easier and cheaper to fix!

If you do end up changing the injector, rule #1 is "don't let any dirt (even dust!) get into the injector where the fuel goes in". Rule #2 is "refer to rule #1."

[81DIESEL84]

Do i have to remove all the hard lines from all the injectors or just for that injector? Do i put anti-seize or teflon

[DmaxMaverick]

DO NOT use anything other than fuel or some clean oil on the injector lines connectors/nuts/threads. Don't take the chance of contaminating the injector. The seal is metal-metal and requires no sealer, of any kind. If your lines are aligned squarely with the injector, they will seal well (if they aren't, the threads won't start). Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and free of damage. Brake cleaner is good if you need to clean up the area, but don't use it with the line or injector open to any flying debris.

The lines do not have to be removed for injector removal. Remove the pair clamps and "spring" it out of the way. If necessary, you can bend the line (by hand--don't use pliers) to clear an injector, but no more than necessary. Just be sure to not kink it, and bend it back to alignment before engaging the threads. The nut threads should start easily if it is aligned.

[81DIESEL84]

Does the length of the return lines matter? How do i know which type of injector I have without taking it out?

[DmaxMaverick]

The injector line lengths do matter. There are several sizes, according to the injection pump, heads, and injectors used. An original 1984 6.2L engine in a truck/SUV will use fine thread, long body injectors, and matching lines. If any part of the system has been changed, all of the parts have to be changed. They aren't interchangeable. If your injector lines look like a plate of spaghetti (all bent up and miss-matched), replace them with the correct set. Specify your model and year. Vans and HMMWV's were different (short injectors, with corresponding lines). 6.5L heads have different injector angles, which requires another line set (which are still different, between MFI and EFI).

[81DIESEL84]

What size socket is it? is it counterclock wise or clockwise to take off

[DmaxMaverick]

It's a 30mm, "Bosch/GM injector socket". Napa and other stores have them, or search Ebay for a GM injector socket. A new Snap-On is about $40-50. Craftsman is about $30.

All the threads on the fuel system are right-hand.

[81DIESEL84]

Thank you very much for all the help.