Feel Like A Heel

[eracers999]

Iv'e got 200 bucks invested in a clutch and D max fan. The clutch and fan are 6 mos old. From the begining i knew deep down inside that the clutch was'nt coming all the way in so i began a mod process with both the old set up (original) and the new set up (6 mo old set up off ebay) after a weekend of heavy towing and engine temps of 230 to 240 with out hearing the clutch ever bring the fan full on. First let me say that the one rule that i live and die by i violated. Do it right the first time and buy the best parts money can buy, they go hand in hand. The old saying is playing in my head, i would rather explain the price of quality than to have to apologize for somthing less. I bought this set up off ebay, (wont mention the name unless asked in private) i had been seriously eyeballing and had my heart set on a new Kennedy unit when i found this cheap set up for less money. I made a major calibration change to the original clutch set up and installed and tested. Results Fan full on at 196 deg (tech1). In the mean time i did a major change to my ebay unit witch has a different center area around the spring area compared to the GM unit, swapped them out and re tested, 230 240 and no lockup on fan, couldent even hear the fan. In the mean time i was making changes to the old GM unit, swapped them out again, this time i hit it right on the money with the old GM unit, tech1 temp 209 and full on fan (purrfect. In the mean time i did even more of a calibration change to the ebay unit and guess what ? yea that's right remember when i said that the hubs were different around the spring area well the ole die grinder found its way to make a hole. The first change to it should have been to much, the results were it didnt make any difference. The ebay clutch was either a defect or it flat out will not hold a fan full on, witch seems to be the case. Shure it would roar with the a/c on taking off a lite or in traffic but the roar always went away with rpm. The old GM unit with the steel 20 in blade will almost suck the towels thru the grill at 3000 rpm . I should have done it like i wanted to the first time with the JK unit and i wouldent be here writing this. If anyone has a stock factory (GM production only) unit that is good i will buy it as a spare now that im so good at the mod.
Kent

[FarmerDale]

Kent,

Took my original stock off this spring during my cooling upgrade. It is available.

dlstever at bevcomm.net

[eracers999]

Farmerdale;
Sent you a email, thanks

Kent

[markrinker]

Could the reason that the 'roar' subsides with the plastic Duramax fan be that the blades flatten out?

[john8662]

Bummer to hear about the rip off fan from "ss diesel supply". I saw those on ebay, I thought to myself that it wouldn't work. I finally got all my change together and bought the kennedy clutch and steel fan (don't like the plastic dmax stuff). I am glad that I did it, thats been my cooling issue all along, I always wanted a rig that would actually run 180 with 180 stats in it. Before it ran hotter than 180 with a/c on or with a trailer in tow. I also have a perfectly working GM clutch for sale if you don't get one. The old clutch worked great, just engaged too late for my taste (over 210 on my gauge in the cab). But would engage every time I got slowed down and then accelerated again (stop and go) while in tow.

Now, if I could only find a clutch setup similar to kennedy's for my 6.2's then I would be in business!

[ 08-31-2004, 08:36 AM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

[eracers999]

John, how much for your old clutch ?

Kent

[john8662]

Its got right at 108k miles on it. I don't know what its worth, works 100% like a factory clutch, I'd take $40, feel free to counter offer if thats high.

[ttpost]

how did you modify your spring on your stock clutch??

[whatnot]

Originally posted by john8662:
Its got right at 108k miles on it. I don't know what its worth, works 100% like a factory clutch, I'd take $40, feel free to counter offer if thats high. If he isn't interested in it, I might be.
You can email me at whatnot@ureach.com

[eracers999]

TTPOST;
I had both set ups off and on a bunch. With reguards to the factory one you have slot that holds the temp spring, this style clutch had 2 raised pieces of the casting to create the slot. Working counter clockwise i put a 1/4 in drill bit in a die grinder and basicly broached the left side till it was pretty thin. With the temp spring all the way over (counter clockwise) against that new edge i re siliconed it there. It has worked out well.
Kent

[john8662]

whatnot,

You have mail!

[MTTwister]

TTPOST;
I had both set ups off and on a bunch. With reguards to the factory one you have slot that holds the temp spring, this style clutch had 2 raised pieces of the casting to create the slot. Working counter clockwise i put a 1/4 in drill bit in a die grinder and basicly broached the left side till it was pretty thin. With the temp spring all the way over (counter clockwise) against that new edge i re siliconed it there. It has worked out well.
Kent

I'm not folllowing the Cw / CCW logic. My spring curled CCW when I heated it. therefore, I thought i should move the base tab CCW, to the RIGHT, to get the spring to "preload" the contraction.

Edit: - Boy - I think I'm gonna need before and after pic's - with arrows, highlights, notations!

[eracers999]

If you are looking at the outer part of the spring that sits in the slot, it has to be re located to the left, if you were looking at it at a 12:00 position, it has to be moved counterclockwise. The amount of material to remove is close to 1/8 of a inch. The spring still sits in the same slot it is just ground out on the left side, then you move the spring over against that side and silicone it in place. Does that make sence to ya. Remember small amounts of change in the location of the spring make a noticable difference.
Kent

[MTTwister]

Kent - Well - poop! I was working mine in the 6 o'clock position, therefore moved mine to the right. Same dang difference, but major relative reference problem. Whew ( I think) Thanks.
Haven't gotten it hot enough, yet, to test the kick-in temp- so the jury's still out.. smile.gif

[tom.mcinerney]

I think the clutches need to be maintained in an orientation to avoid having fluid leak out???

[eracers999]

What i did to test my work and it has proved to work just the same when pulling is, i hooked up the tech1 set the throttle with the throttle stick at 2700 with the a/c on and placed a big towell over the grill, works really good. Then just sit back and listen for the fan to come in and what temp. Road test proved to have the same results as the towell test, or what ever. Kent