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I keep seeing references to a bracket at the back end of the starter. Mine does not have that, just the two bolts. Is that normal?
DmaxMaverick
02-03-2011, 20:44
It should have one. Actually, it's the "front", not the back. It only seems like the "back" because it's opposite the drive end. If it doesn't have one, get one, and get it on there. Starters are expensive. Broken blocks are a genuine PITA.
They are a bit difficult to get situated correctly, so I bet someone replaced the starter and decided not to put it back on. To get mine on there, I attached the bracket to the starter, but left it loose. Then bolted it to the block where it is supposed to go, then tightened the nut on the starter. This nut was not easy to get to, but it was the easiest way I found to do it.
The best way to gain access to the starter and to replace the "Tail hook" as I call it, is to remove the RH front wheel, remove the rubber flap and Poof, your looking right at the starter wires and can easily access the little bracket.
The starter should have a stud on the back cover (end to the front of the block) and there is a little hole in the engine block.
As Maverick mentioned, broken blocks are a real PITA as in your engine is junk.
I have repaired two blocks, but it requires the engine to be out and completely apart to do this.
If you done have any issues yet, get two new starter bolts (GM ITEM) and the hook and get this stuff changed out.
The factory bolts have a Knurled spot just above the threaded area. This helps pilot the thing and stabilize it.
Broken bolts are a PITA too.
Good luck
Missy
Thanks all for your responses.
I saw the new sticky in the "Tech" section Robyn started and if it is alright with you all, perhaps we could continue there.
I have posted a picture I took of the bracket which I purchased at a GM dealer in Richmond.VA.
Thought I would post this here to get some eyes on it. Any insight is welcome.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showpost.php?p=278882&postcount=5
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showpost.php?p=278944&postcount=6
I keep seeing references to a bracket at the back end of the starter. Mine does not have that, just the two bolts. Is that normal?
Whoever put that starter in was too lazy or didn't know about the bracket. I choose to not use the Gm bracket. I make my own out of way heavier material. I also make them to clear a second frost plug heater I put in on the passenger side.I have broken several GM brackets.
Whoever put that starter in was too lazy or didn't know about the bracket. I choose to not use the Gm bracket. I make my own out of way heavier material. I also make them to clear a second frost plug heater I put in on the passenger side.I have broken several GM brackets.
Wow, that looks great!!
I think you are right about the installer.
Can I just turn the cap around on my starter to make it work?
There should be a stud that is threaded into a ear on the end cap of the starter that the bracket attaches to. The stud can be 4mm or 1/4" depending on the starter. It isn't real visible in the pic. I'll see if I have a better pic.
There should be a stud that is threaded into a ear on the end cap of the starter that the bracket attaches to. The stud can be 4mm or 1/4" depending on the starter. It isn't real visible in the pic. I'll see if I have a better pic.
Yeah, my "ear" is on the wrong side of the starter. But thats the least of my problem. Seeing where yours is bolted into your block(that little raised spot above the freeze out plug) has answered my question about where mine will bolt to. Problem is, there is no threaded hole on mine. Which answers the big question about why my starter was always just attached with the two bolts. Evidently, Jasper didn't allow for tapping there(not sure what block they used for the remanu) and my crack installer(Dennis' Truck and Trailer in Richmond.VA) must of deemed the bracket "unneeded".
Do you think that is a tough fix? Any idea on how deep I need to drill? Thanks to you for clearing this up.
There are times I love the access to the engine my motorhome allows. I changed the starter in about 1/2 hour.
Yeah, my "ear" is on the wrong side of the starter. But thats the least of my problem. Seeing where yours is bolted into your block(that little raised spot above the freeze out plug) has answered my question about where mine will bolt to. Problem is, there is no threaded hole on mine. Which answers the big question about why my starter was always just attached with the two bolts. Evidently, Jasper didn't allow for tapping there(not sure what block they used for the remanu) and my crack installer(Dennis' Truck and Trailer in Richmond.VA) must of deemed the bracket "unneeded".
Do you think that is a tough fix? Any idea on how deep I need to drill? Thanks to you for clearing this up.
I don't know for shure but your block could be a chineese clone block.
I had a bad experence with jasper a few years ago. They wouldn't stand behind their product. I should have gotten a lawyer.
The bolt that holds the starter bracket to the block is a 8mm bolt by 19-20mm long 1.25 ? thread pitch. I have a GM bracket that has N23502557 stamped in it. The pic isn't real clear but it is less than half the thickness of my home made ones. I believe they are under $10 from GM.
You may need a right angle drill to drill the hole in the block. You should be safe to drill the hole 22mm deep. Good luck!
I don't know for shure but your block could be a chineese clone block.
I had a bad experence with jasper a few years ago. They wouldn't stand behind their product. I should have gotten a lawyer.
The bolt that holds the starter bracket to the block is a 8mm bolt by 19-20mm long 1.25 ? thread pitch. I have a GM bracket that has N23502557 stamped in it. The pic isn't real clear but it is less than half the thickness of my home made ones. I believe they are under $10 from GM.
You may need a right angle drill to drill the hole in the block. You should be safe to drill the hole 22mm deep. Good luck!
Sorry to hear about your bad experience with a jasper. When I purchased mine, they had a description of how they remanufactured the 6.5 taking in account the inherent weak spots and improving on them. At least thats how I remembered it. Course that was ten years ago. I've been pretty pleased with it, in spite of this starter issue. No blowby, oil pressure still around 40 psi at idle. Decent power. I can't clearly recall how they described the block and visiting the site recently offered no details on the 6.5 and what their process entails.
I will be more than a little nervous drilling into the block. I will probably combine this repair with injector/glow plugs so I'll have the inner fender off.
Your info has been most helpful. Thank you.
DmaxMaverick
02-10-2011, 20:11
I don't think I'd be so anxious to drill into the block, at least in that area. You could do better bridging a plate between 2 (or more) other threaded holes, or fab a bracket to the engine mount bolt.
I don't think I'd be so anxious to drill into the block, at least in that area. You could do better bridging a plate between 2 (or more) other threaded holes, or fab a bracket to the engine mount bolt.
Good. Cause I don't want to drill the block.
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