Robyn
02-04-2011, 08:36
Maybe someone will Sticky this so these same old questions will not come up and folks can have far less troubles doing an R&R on the starter.
OK
The starter on a GMT 400 truck (88 and later pickups and 92 and later Burbs and 2 door Tahoe with the diesels) is not all that tough to get off.
The question on the "tail hook", rear support bracket or whatever you wish to call it, comes up all the time.
This part is an absolute must have to prevent the starter bolts and or the block or both from breaking.
The "tail hook" bolts to the side of the block and to the little stud on the starter.
TO remove the starter is an easy matter.
Jack the rig up and block securely. Next remove the RH front tire/wheel and then remove the rubber inner fender flap. (careful use with a little prong tool may save the plastic barbed button retainers but if not they are an easy score at most parts stores.
Now, you can sit right there on your tooshy and get at the starter "tail hook" as well as the wireing.
Once the tail hook is loose and removed, the wires are an easy one too.
Remove the two main bolts and off comes the starter.
If the bolts look at all messed up or if they look like they have been off a few times or the "tail hook" is missing then by all means, replace the two bolts with the factory "real deal" parts.
The factory bolts have a Knurled ring just beyond the threads and this makes the bolt SNUG in the first part of the hole.
The idea is simple, the weakest part of the bolt is at the root of the thread right near the last thread and with the torque applied to these bolts by the starter, they could break at the threads.
The holes have a "PILOT" (first 3/8") then the threads, this allows the knurl to help hold the bolt stable in the hole.
Sooooooooooo, dont use harware store bolts in these holes, not even grade 5 or 8 ones, use only the parts that were designed for the spot.
So many other bolts on these engines can have standard metric bolts used, NOT HERE.
Replace the starter as usual, leave the bolts just barely snug, then install the "tail hook" and just snug it up, now finish tightening the main starter bolts, then finish the "tail hook".
The electrical can be reconnected now followed by replacing the rubber flap, the tire/wheel and your done.
This is the easiest way to deal with the starters on these trucks. The frustration, busted knuckles and "Blue air" are eliminated :eek:
NEVER RUN A STARTER ON THESE TRUCKS WITHOUT THE "TAIL HOOK"
If your hook is missing or broken, get a new/another one and get it on there along with two (2) new main starter bolts.
Your starter and your wallet will be far happier.
Having seen the carnage that can result from broken starter bolts and broken blocks, I can't stress this enough.
The above precedure is easy so give it a try.
Missy
OK
The starter on a GMT 400 truck (88 and later pickups and 92 and later Burbs and 2 door Tahoe with the diesels) is not all that tough to get off.
The question on the "tail hook", rear support bracket or whatever you wish to call it, comes up all the time.
This part is an absolute must have to prevent the starter bolts and or the block or both from breaking.
The "tail hook" bolts to the side of the block and to the little stud on the starter.
TO remove the starter is an easy matter.
Jack the rig up and block securely. Next remove the RH front tire/wheel and then remove the rubber inner fender flap. (careful use with a little prong tool may save the plastic barbed button retainers but if not they are an easy score at most parts stores.
Now, you can sit right there on your tooshy and get at the starter "tail hook" as well as the wireing.
Once the tail hook is loose and removed, the wires are an easy one too.
Remove the two main bolts and off comes the starter.
If the bolts look at all messed up or if they look like they have been off a few times or the "tail hook" is missing then by all means, replace the two bolts with the factory "real deal" parts.
The factory bolts have a Knurled ring just beyond the threads and this makes the bolt SNUG in the first part of the hole.
The idea is simple, the weakest part of the bolt is at the root of the thread right near the last thread and with the torque applied to these bolts by the starter, they could break at the threads.
The holes have a "PILOT" (first 3/8") then the threads, this allows the knurl to help hold the bolt stable in the hole.
Sooooooooooo, dont use harware store bolts in these holes, not even grade 5 or 8 ones, use only the parts that were designed for the spot.
So many other bolts on these engines can have standard metric bolts used, NOT HERE.
Replace the starter as usual, leave the bolts just barely snug, then install the "tail hook" and just snug it up, now finish tightening the main starter bolts, then finish the "tail hook".
The electrical can be reconnected now followed by replacing the rubber flap, the tire/wheel and your done.
This is the easiest way to deal with the starters on these trucks. The frustration, busted knuckles and "Blue air" are eliminated :eek:
NEVER RUN A STARTER ON THESE TRUCKS WITHOUT THE "TAIL HOOK"
If your hook is missing or broken, get a new/another one and get it on there along with two (2) new main starter bolts.
Your starter and your wallet will be far happier.
Having seen the carnage that can result from broken starter bolts and broken blocks, I can't stress this enough.
The above precedure is easy so give it a try.
Missy