U/J replacement advice needed urgently

[twaddle]

While changing the engine oil and replacing the engine oil cooler and lines I find a failed U/J at the front driveshaft.
The U/J is NOT secured in the yoke with the snap rings like most U/Js used to be held with. On the yoke on the shaft there are 2 small pins sticking out from the yoke sides that look as if they are holding the U/J cup in place in the shaft yoke.

I need some advice on replacing the U/J before I start attemping to pull it apart. I have replaced lots of the U/Js especially the snap ring secured U/Js but never this type.

The truck is a 1996 K1500 6.5 Diesel 4x4 Suburban. The U/J is on the driveshaft from the transfer box to the front diff.
Am I right to presume that the shaft and U/Js should be K2500 spec just like pretty much everything else on the K1500 Suburbans?

Thank you in anticipation of some assistance from those more knowledgable than me.

Jim

[DmaxMaverick]

That U-joint is an OEM install. Those ARE NOT pins sticking out. The cup is held in the yoke with injected plastic, which is what is sticking out.

Your replacement set should come with "C" clips that clip on the INSIDE of the yoke, in a groove in the cup.

There are 2 ways to replace them:

Arbor press. This is the recommended method, but not necessarily the easiest, or most effective. Some heat may be needed to get them to break loose.

Propane torch. I've done it this way for years, and it works very well. The propane flame isn't hot enough to damage or warp the yoke. I know of one guy who uses a heat gun (500° hair dryer), but that takes forever. If you use any other torch (oxy-gas, MAPP), apply only enough heat to do the job, and not too much at a time. It should take 5-6 minutes for the heat to do the job, each cup. Heat the yoke around the cup, and the end of the cup. Get too much heat toward the inside, and the rubber seal and grease will catch fire. The plastic will come out as it's heated (like extrusion). Stop the heat about 30 seconds after the plastic stops coming out. Drive out the cups. Allow the yoke to cool, then the rest of the plastic will come out of the inner groove with a pick or small screwdriver. If it's still hot, the plastic is sticky and doesn't cooperate. Some guys just burn out the remaining plastic, but it is unnecessary, and takes longer. You still have to allow the yoke to cool before handling, and installing the new cups.

The install is similar to "standard" type joints with clips, only the clips will go on the inside end of the cup, instead of inside the yoke on the outside end. Make absolutely sure the clips are fully seated. It is usually a very tight fit. An arbor press is more helpful during install than removal, on these.

[twaddle]

Thank you very much for the info. That should save me learning the hard way.
I have a little 15 ton hydraulic press that I use for the likes of this.

I'll get a U/J tomorrow.

Jim

[Robyn]

Yup the plastic will come right out with the heat.

Done many of these suckers.

Good luck

Missy