4boltmainiac
04-09-2011, 01:00
"Working safe with proper tools combined with Unbendable Standards for Quality and Safety is more than a Job... Its the American way of life."
Glow plug cycling started gettin erratic and she gets a little harder to start very little at a time...
Key ON; find good ground with 12v test light and make sure pink,blue and battery in to relay light up. if so hook test light to 12v source and probe #5 nand #6 holes at GPC connector. Lights up then check ground at valve cover and egr/epr splice. Lights up Then replace controller.
I tried to remove a couple by wrenchin em out at boneyard. Broke one
smartend up and remove the second on a suburban with auto trans and light duty CA emissions. I removed the epr/egr soL. plugs and retaining bracket. Ont the auto trans it was tuff popping the kick down link cable clip without breakin it. Broke the 5\8(wrench) Bolts loos and removed the 9\16(wrench)double stud. Removed auto trans bracket and GPC to block flange (epr/egr soL s removed) Ialso trace wires on GPC connector cut them at longest point and fully remove ground to block ground wires off GPC connector. A small long old screwdriver ground down is need to remove wires from clips as needed.
Got parts to the house (paid under 20$ from boneyard) and promptly snapped the once intact GPC in two tryin to remove.
Undaunted I removed my GPC and flange to block from my truck (Luckily a Four speed so its quite a bit easier).
Thunked real hard and woundt up screwin flange to my 4x4 treated work bench leg post so the GPC was waist high and on the horizontal screwed into flange that was screwed to the post. Pin crescent wrench finally freed the fragile and i do mean FRAGILE GPC from the flange. Factory has a copper flange gasket that freaked me a little.. Undaunted i cleaned mating surfaces properly (left radiator cap on so very little coolant lost)reinstalled new echlin (napa) GPC 102 controller with a touch of anti seize(my very best friend)
syphoned coolant with hand pump for dry surface put a little high temp red RTV on flange and my ol lady handed me part then bolts as the climb onto the K10 and laying out across engine has its ways of reachin out and getting RTV all over everythang cept the mating surfaces! Torqued flange bolts to 40 foot lbs as I could not find a value for this flange. Splice inspect wires as needed hooked up ground to block epr/egr soL s, connector waited a min of 10 min to all thermo mech GPC to cool, fired it up got glow plugs to cycle PROPERLY (6-8 pops on relay) I then knew she was runnin right. Done from my driveway in a total of 5.5hours not countin boneyard. Thanks to the moderators and members of the diesel page forums for all your help for I learned here 4BM
1983 K10 Scottsdale 6.2 4spd o/d SWB ps hydroboost,AC ps pdl pw cc tilt
4x4 cs tow dual tanks two tone chrome pkg can you tell I love her?
Glow plug cycling started gettin erratic and she gets a little harder to start very little at a time...
Key ON; find good ground with 12v test light and make sure pink,blue and battery in to relay light up. if so hook test light to 12v source and probe #5 nand #6 holes at GPC connector. Lights up then check ground at valve cover and egr/epr splice. Lights up Then replace controller.
I tried to remove a couple by wrenchin em out at boneyard. Broke one
smartend up and remove the second on a suburban with auto trans and light duty CA emissions. I removed the epr/egr soL. plugs and retaining bracket. Ont the auto trans it was tuff popping the kick down link cable clip without breakin it. Broke the 5\8(wrench) Bolts loos and removed the 9\16(wrench)double stud. Removed auto trans bracket and GPC to block flange (epr/egr soL s removed) Ialso trace wires on GPC connector cut them at longest point and fully remove ground to block ground wires off GPC connector. A small long old screwdriver ground down is need to remove wires from clips as needed.
Got parts to the house (paid under 20$ from boneyard) and promptly snapped the once intact GPC in two tryin to remove.
Undaunted I removed my GPC and flange to block from my truck (Luckily a Four speed so its quite a bit easier).
Thunked real hard and woundt up screwin flange to my 4x4 treated work bench leg post so the GPC was waist high and on the horizontal screwed into flange that was screwed to the post. Pin crescent wrench finally freed the fragile and i do mean FRAGILE GPC from the flange. Factory has a copper flange gasket that freaked me a little.. Undaunted i cleaned mating surfaces properly (left radiator cap on so very little coolant lost)reinstalled new echlin (napa) GPC 102 controller with a touch of anti seize(my very best friend)
syphoned coolant with hand pump for dry surface put a little high temp red RTV on flange and my ol lady handed me part then bolts as the climb onto the K10 and laying out across engine has its ways of reachin out and getting RTV all over everythang cept the mating surfaces! Torqued flange bolts to 40 foot lbs as I could not find a value for this flange. Splice inspect wires as needed hooked up ground to block epr/egr soL s, connector waited a min of 10 min to all thermo mech GPC to cool, fired it up got glow plugs to cycle PROPERLY (6-8 pops on relay) I then knew she was runnin right. Done from my driveway in a total of 5.5hours not countin boneyard. Thanks to the moderators and members of the diesel page forums for all your help for I learned here 4BM
1983 K10 Scottsdale 6.2 4spd o/d SWB ps hydroboost,AC ps pdl pw cc tilt
4x4 cs tow dual tanks two tone chrome pkg can you tell I love her?