1995 Towing Capacity

[chris_maxwell]

I have a 95 K2500 extended cab long box with 4" exhaust, upgraded duel thermostats, gauges for EGT and Boost, with a performance chip. I am running Yokohama 285 75R 16 tires; the truck door says 8500 GVWR. I am planning a move 3000 miles across the county and want to haul as much as possible in one shot. i have found a 30' cargo trailer with triple axles for 4,000 dollars, can I load this thing down and safely tow it?

[DmaxMaverick]

Nice upgrades, to be sure, but none of them change the GVWR (which should read 8600). A lot more than the ability to accelerate is factored into the weight ratings. The vehicle chassis must be able to manage stability, and brake safely. Although many who overload will say it handles "fine", have never had one, or both vehicles in other than a controlled straight line on the highway. When the towed vehicle becomes the controller, the rules/perceptions change (as well as their shorts).

Check the GVWR of the trailer (it should have a tag/sticker similar to that on your truck). Just because it has 3 axles doesn't mean it has a "high" GVWR. It depends on the reason for the axle number. Many trailer designs opt for more, smaller wheels/tires for either weight distribution or deck height. In any case, your GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) will not change, regardless of the trailer, hitch, or modifications. I don't recall the exact number, but the GCWR on your truck is in the neighborhood of about 14-15K. Having a "heavy duty" trailer may be a benefit in some cases, but they are usually much heavier than lighter-duty trailers. This means less weight capacity remaining for cargo. Also, 2 more tires means 50% more expense when the time comes to replace them, and 3 axles typically wear them at a higher rate (less miles per tire), depending on use and conditions. If you have an OEM, or OEM type hitch platform, you are also limited there. For 1995, IIRC, the V-5 hitch was rated for a maximum of 10K trailer weight WITH weight distributing hardware, and only about 1/2 - 2/3 of that without. Also, the ball and adapter (typically only rated for 5-6K) must also be rated for the load, and tongue weights must be consistent with the hardware and actual loading.

In any case, have a close look at the ratings and limitations of the entire combination and related hardware. NEVER exceed the maximum rating of the weakest component.

[chris_maxwell]

Hopefully the screen print shows up; it says 15,600 on the trailer with 15" rims and 205/ST75R tires.

Thanks for your response DMax.

The truck does have overload springs in the rear, it was done before I bought the truck @ 45,000 miles. The original owner planned on a large camper (SRW), the second owner wanted to tow a boat and put the hitch on it. You’re correct on the hitch it is rated at 10,000 trailer weight and 1,000 tongue weight. You’re correct again as the ball saws 6,000 on the top of it; how do you make it more as it is I believe a 1" hole. Does this mean I couldn’t legally tow the trailer or that I just couldn’t load it over 10,000 lbs on the hitch, or 6,000 with the ball? Kind of scary in the fact that I have a small dump trailer that I have been hauling a couple of pallets of sod around which weight 3,000 apiece plus the 3,000 trailer weight.

What would you suggest for a set up to haul across the states from east to west?

[rustyk]

If it were I, I'd look for a smaller trailer - 30' is a lot for a tow-behind, and the sail area in a cross wind could run the "pucker factor" up to 9+ (although the triplle axles would help somewhat).

If you do get the 30', I 'd suggest getting it weighed empty along with the truck, so you'll KNOW the weights. And weighing after loading would be a necessity.

The ball and mount capacities refer to the trailer weight, not the tongue weight.

[DmaxMaverick]

No matter how you do it, your MAXIMUM capacity will be the LOWEST rating of ANY part of your vehicles and towing/towed equipment. Many folks consider the published weight ratings as a "suggested guideline", and load according to what they feel they can handle. The DOT/Trooper discussing this with you on the roadside won't agree. Trust me (I R 1). We aren't as stupid as we look/act.

The gross weight rating of this trailer is of no concern, as you don't/won't have the equipment to legally utilize its capacity.

Overload springs can be helpful in some cases, but in NO case do they increase your legal capacity.

Many times, folks can get away with many things locally, but once you cross state lines, compliance becomes more important. A 30', 3 axle trailer is a dead ringer for a covert commercial hauler (among other less-than-legal purposes). Your chances of being closely examined by any number of authorities on your route drastically increases.

If you intend to use the full legal capacity of your trailering ability, you'll have to examine every piece of your rig very closely. You will need, just to start with, a properly rated hitch ball and ball adapter. A 10K rated 2-5/16" ball will have a 1.25" shank. Over 14K requires a 2.5" hitch receiver (the "hitch" part bolted to the frame). Your current ball mount (platform), if it's labeled, will have a maximum of about 6K, and often less, depending on the mfg and their rating at the time of mfg. If it isn't labeled or branded, it can be as low as 3.5K. The higher rated parts are not cheap, and you will not find them at Walmart or any box store. You can get them at truck shops and RV distributors. To utilize the maximum capacity you will be able to couple together, you will also need a properly rated WD (weight distributing) hitch system. You can get a "kit" with all the parts needed. You may find something listed on Ebay, Craig's list, or your local class-ads. Quality parts will all have their weight ratings permanently stamped onto them. Don't take someone's word for it.

Also (yeah, there's more), you must consider the license class required for the combination. If your trailer is over 10K (ball coupled trailers, including "bumper hitch" and goose necks), many states require a class A (commercial or non-commercial class A) driver license. There are very few exceptions to this, which include some (not all) RV's, but in no case are "cargo" trailers excepted. Some states won't allow you to continue into their state if your weight exceeds your license class. Many municipal/residential roads (and non- "truck routes") will not allow vehicles over a specific weight rating (regardless of actual loaded weight), and/or axle number. Again, there are exceptions for these, but cargo combinations are not one of them, in most cases. The "coastal" (east and west) states seem to be more strict in most regards, while the "mid" states seem to be more lenient. Check the local laws of every place you may be visiting. Not doing this may leave you with a situation you may not be able to immediately remedy, and the inconvenience of extended stays and added expense. Most of the DOT officials won't allow you to continue if you have a license class or weight loading violation. If you are certain you are legal everywhere you go, do yourself a favor and scale your rig before you leave for the trip. Having this will go a long way to prevent problems along the way. Officials will appreciate (really!!) your having an axle weight report handy to show your genuine intent and success to travel legally. This is also important when setting up a WD hitch system for the first time (rarely does anyone get it right the first time).

[Edahall]

I have a 95 K2500 extended cab long box with 4" exhaust, upgraded duel thermostats, gauges for EGT and Boost, with a performance chip. I am running Yokohama 285 75R 16 tires; the truck door says 8500 GVWR. I am planning a move 3000 miles across the county and want to haul as much as possible in one shot. i have found a 30' cargo trailer with triple axles for 4,000 dollars, can I load this thing down and safely tow it?

I probably should not tell you this but I was in the same position as you last year and needed to move cross country and quite was overloaded. The trick is to take your time and keep the speeds down. The faster the speed, the faster things can get out of hand and the longer the stopping distance. In my case, I kept the speeds down under 55 mph and kept a very long following distance. I had no problems other than the tires on my trailer getting hot. Rather than risking them blowing out, I bought new tires that had a higher weight rating and that took care of that problem. Also watch your gauges carefully and don't be afraid to take the hills slowly in a lower gear. It's better to take your time than risk the transmission or engine overheating. Anyways, keep safe and remember it's better to be safe than sorry. If you get down the road a few miles and things feel unstable or you feel uncomfortable with the load, turn around and come up with another plan. Also, make sure to make frequent stops to check out your equipment. There's usually tell tale signs before something fails. For example, by checking my tires, I found they were getting hot so I decreased my speed until I was able to get to find a tire store to have them replaced.

[DmaxMaverick]

I probably should not tell you this but I was in the same position as you last year and needed to move cross country and quite was overloaded. The trick is to take your time and keep the speeds down. The faster the speed, the faster things can get out of hand and the longer the stopping distance. In my case, I kept the speeds down under 55 mph and kept a very long following distance. I had no problems other than the tires on my trailer getting hot. Rather than risking them blowing out, I bought new tires that had a higher weight rating and that took care of that problem. Also watch your gauges carefully and don't be afraid to take the hills slowly in a lower gear. It's better to take your time than risk the transmission or engine overheating. Anyways, keep safe and remember it's better to be safe than sorry. If you get down the road a few miles and things feel unstable or you feel uncomfortable with the load, turn around and come up with another plan. Also, make sure to make frequent stops to check out your equipment. There's usually tell tale signs before something fails. For example, by checking my tires, I found they were getting hot so I decreased my speed until I was able to get to find a tire store to have them replaced.

Good advice. However, this applies to any rig, legal or otherwise. Don't assume, just because you are legal, nothing can go wrong. Don't wait until you fall asleep before you realize you need some rest.

Also, if you are traveling with family, consider getting a small self contained porta-potty and make a place for it inside the trailer, that can be accessed easily. They are not expensive, and can be real handy when you need it most. Sometimes, the distance between services is greater than the need for them. It will go a long way to reduce tension on the trip.

[chris_maxwell]

I didn't know that there was so much to towing a trailer; and that there is a difference between an RV trailer and a cargo trailer. If the trailer has a bed or potty does that make it legal to have a unit over 10K without a class A license?

Do you have to do some type of drivers test for a class A license?

I am going to check on class V hitches tomorrow; is there a brand that is recommended?

I can check with the local laws but kind of hard to check on everywhere else; I would probably head north up 24 to I90 and head west. I certainly don't want to be stopped on the road and held up due to weight; and I want to make it their safely as well.

[Edahall]

I can check with the local laws but kind of hard to check on everywhere else; I would probably head north up 24 to I90 and head west. I certainly don't want to be stopped on the road and held up due to weight; and I want to make it their safely as well.

You're unlikely to be stopped if you're not swaying, speeding or doing something crazy. That said, several weeks ago, I saw an S-10 pickup with the back end sagged almost all the way to the pavement towing a huge 40 ft travel trailer down the highway. I just can't imagine that if spotted, they wouldn't get stopped.

[DmaxMaverick]

If your hitch is rated at 10K, it is a V5 (for that production year). The problem you are going to run into with looking at a higher rated hitch is, your tow vehicle isn't rated for more. So, as long as your current hitch is in good condition and properly secured (check the frame and bolts!!!), there's no reason to look further. This also solves the license class issue. If your current consideration puts you over the legal limit, you need a lighter trailer.

As far as the "local laws" go, just check the states you will be entering. If you are under 10K on the trailer, no problems. Don't worry about the municipal codes. If a vehicle isn't allowed, there will be street signs. Also, there are exceptions for non-commercial oversize vehicles, such as RV's and moving vans. Don't expect too much anal-retentive enforcement in this department (cops move, too).

$4,000 for a used cargo trailer may be a good bargain, but is by no means a "steal" (it would have to be like new before I would even consider it, if I had a specific need for it and no other options). You could probably find something of similar size, more suited to your needs for a similar cost or less. A lower rated trailer will weigh significantly less, allowing for a greater load. Household goods don't weight much, compared to "commercial cargo" (engine blocks, pallets of concrete, sod, etc). Later model trucks typically handle these loads legally, but short of a dually, not of "legal" concern earlier than 2001 2500HD models (~15,600 trailer rating). My 2001 2500HD has a GCWR of 22K, later model 3500's are rated at 23,500, and late model 3500HD's are rated at ~26K with a 20K+ trailer rating.

The trailer has to be an "RV", to be considered an RV. In most states, this requires fixed plumbing and primary living spaces, among other things. A "converted" cargo trailer won't fly. It has to be registered as an RV to be one.

[chris_maxwell]

I went to a trailer lot today and bought a used Husky WD Sway set up; it has a 12,000 LB rating and the ball @ 10,000 should be my limiter now. I purchased an extra anti sway bar to protect from side winds. This should get me up to 10,000 pounds safely; it is only the 2' setup. I hope I got a decent deal for it; I paid $317.
:cool:
Now I guess I need to find the trailer and mount all of these goodies on it. Thanks for everyone’s help.

[jhornsby3]

So what was the final set up? How was the trip? Pictures too if you have them, of the set up you went with.

I know this is an older post. I also know I have this problem.:rolleyes:

[chris_maxwell]

I have everything but have not made the trip yet. My truck and trailer is in GA and I am in WA; my drive will be before the end of the year. Since this post I had to put a new engine in the truck so there is only about 2K on it. I sure took some grief for putting that kind of money in my truck; part of the sum of parts versus value, for me I know my truck as I have owned it for more than 15 years.

I will let you know how the trip goes, my home in GA will be on the market next week.

[jhornsby3]

Good luck on the sale. Hope it goes quick and for not a penny less than you want for it.

A new motor in your truck is better than a truck payment for sure.:D