Front hubs on K2500

[phantom309]

The truck is a 94 K2500 (8600lb), 6.5 diesel/auto.
The pass side front hub is fubar,. i have a chance to buy a nib drivers side front hub for 1998,.
will it fit? are left and right sides dedicated??
I,ve never had a hub off before on the independant axle front end
thanks for any help,.
Nick

[crashz]

The newer trucks (99-07) are not side dependant, so its a good chance that yours are not. However, didn't GM change a few frontend parts in 96-97, like going to a cast lower A arm and a few upgrades in geometry?

[Robyn]

The Hub (bearing assembly) is an easy job to do.

Just support the rig on a suitable jack under the lower A arm (always use a safety too)

Remove the tire/wheel, then the brake caliper and hang it up out of the way so you don't damage the Hydraulic line.

Next, look behind the hub assembly, you will find 4 bolt heads there.

Use a socket thats a hex NOT a 12 point as these will round the bolt over

If you have access to a lathe, take a impact socket and turn the OD down some so it will fit into the spot faced recess where the bolt heads are.

Remove the bolts. (4)

New using an impact gun and socket, remove the large nut on the axle shaft.

The splines are not interference fit and the shaft will come loose easily.

Now with a soft hammer, swat the brake rotor some on opposite sides and the entire brake rotor and hub assembly should come out of the main housing.

Clean the area well and be sure to use some grease or never seaze where the bearing goes into the housing to prevent rust and troubles later.

The bearing assembly on the early ones had the ABS reluctor separate from the bearing and the later ones have the reluctor built into the bearing.

The 95 and later had the reluctor inside the housing.

Position the new assembly so the ABS harness is located correctly and slide the bearing back into place and reinstall the bolts, tighten well, install the nut and washer on the axle and finish it up.


To remove the rotor from the old bearing, just tap the studs out, clean things and reverse to place the rotor on the new bearing.

There is a rubber dirt seal in there too, clean and grease it then put it back in place.

These are a simple unit to work on.

I have seen a few come apart hard due to the bearing being stuck in the housing.

I slide hammer with a foot, attached to the lugs studs can usually get a tough one apart.

DON'T Pry on things with a BAR, you can mess things up.

Usually the assembly will slide out fairly easy.

The only down side to these front ends is that they do not fair too well with large tires and abuse. The bearing and assembly can be tweeked with hard off road use, especially if the rig has HUGE tires.

The older straight axle set ups were very tough, but the single bearing on the IFS is a weak point.

If you notice, on the IFS trucks the offset on the wheels places the center of the tire right over the bearing to better equalize the load.

Heavy ++ offset wheels really takes a toll on these bearings and assemblies.



Good luck

Missy

[phantom309]

great info thanks robyn,..
here's a pic of the hub,. i think i,m going to go get it tomorrow,.


http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-8-Bolt-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Hub-1998-Chev-GMC-2500-4x4-W0QQAdIdZ329800216


nick

[DmaxMaverick]

Verify the part number before you buy. Most of them aren't the same between 98 and 94 (the listing says for 1998).

[phantom309]

Verify the part number before you buy. Most of them aren't the same between 98 and 94 (the listing says for 1998).

i hear you,. but i,m hoping that the different part numbers are about the abs wires beingclocked differently,.

Nick

[DmaxMaverick]

Does yours have ABS? Many/most 1994's didn't. ABS was an option, while RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) was standard.

Current listings for them are the same for both sides. I've not seen one with different hubs, left/right, ABS or not. OEM may be different, and the indexing of the sensor harness may be the difference. (why they would do that is beyond me)

[phantom309]

Does yours have ABS? Many/most 1994's didn't. ABS was an option, while RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti-Lock) was standard.

Current listings for them are the same for both sides. I've not seen one with different hubs, left/right, ABS or not. OEM may be different, and the indexing of the sensor harness may be the difference. (why they would do that is beyond me)

It,s a putz thing to admit,. but i honestly don't know,. mebbe i,m thinking of the rear antilock thingy,.but i thought the two solenoids and the black box by the master was for abs,.
either it,s a moot point because it,s going on (if it fits,. ) and the damn abs will get disconnected, the damn gm ones are dangerous,. they should have a control that shuts abs off below 5mph,. it,s bloddy annoying to reach the almost stopped part of the situation only to have it keep slithering and sliding and not stopping till you tip it up into neutral,.
Thanks for all the help folks,. i really do count on the expertise and knowledge on this forum,. along with missy's great tips from a been there done that perspective,.

Nick
off to get a hub,.

[Robyn]

The full ABS system has a large unit with a bunch of brake lines going to it mounted on the LH inner fender.

If yours has the two little solenoids and the black box by the MC then its got just the Rear antilock system.


The front hubs will not have the wiring harness.

These are different so be sure before you plunk down the $$$$$$$$


Missy

[HH]

Check Rock Auto . com, the 1998 have wires for ABS, which would not matter, but the 1998 also appears to have 4 mounting bolts and the 1994 only has 3 which would be an issue.

[phantom309]

We tackled things today,. i can tell you there was nearly three inches of play at the outer end of the tire,.
I got tired of not being able to get at what i wanted ,. so,.. i made an little access window in the rotor,.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-066S.jpg?t=1322951973
The abs sensor is a non issue for the older trucks like mine,. i just pulled the cable out of the sensor ,..you have to take the sensor out to install the hub anyway, then i bolted the sensor back in with out its wiring,.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-067S-1.jpg?t=1322951973
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-068S-1.jpg?t=1322951971
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-070S-1.jpg?t=1322951975
smacked all the studs out,.and installed the new rotor on the new hub,.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-071S-1.jpg?t=1322951974
Things looked much better after we bolted it all back together,.but i think i,m going to change out the caliper too, just to keep everything new,.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/wtfuashols123/MVC-072S-1.jpg?t=1322951971
The old rotors felt like featherweights compared to the new one,.
So it,s good to know that the early trucks can use the later model hub,. as long as they are the 8600lb 8 bolt hub,. and not the lighter 6 bolt hubs, GM labeled some truck 2500's with 6 bolt wheels,.
Now i,m on a hunt for another new hub,and two new calipers,..:D

Nick

[JohnC]

$75 for the sensor. I could have given you a bad one! ;)

[phantom309]

i,m getting a hub from close by monday,. it,s a new style with the sensor,.$72.00
only $91.00 shipped to you john . yup i know it,s chinese stuff,. but it'll do me.

Nick