transplant of a 87 6.2 into a 1970 Suburban

[oneleglance]

Hello All,
I figured it was time to stop reading and start posting!
I bought a 1970 Suburban 3/4ton 4x4 as a Father/Son project for my 13yr old.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pA-MLeJooxs/TtmZN1_slOI/AAAAAAAAAcI/gAAHVHXgE28/s800/2011-11-26_09-49-58_27.jpg

We have already done a couple of trips in the month & 1/2 of it's time with us and the 350cu engine/Turbo400 setup is killing us with the 10mpg & 21 gal tank.

So now we have a donor rig to provide for a diesel swap. It is a 1987 6.2L with an aftermarket turbo already installed. 700r4 trans and some transfer case I have not id'd yet.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r_IorHjYvv4/Twk0G73wWPI/AAAAAAAAA2c/o_3xg3BHtoY/s750/suburban-94.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ruTh-Al-_EU/Tw4bKvyqffI/AAAAAAAAA54/TjCA_pTW3sk/s640/suburban-104.jpg

Today was power washing day...and this is the mess I am dealing with. Oh these are the before washing pics :)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-To2XfhQlNzM/Tw4bLP55nWI/AAAAAAAAA54/croUmT2STT8/s750/suburban-106.jpg

[oneleglance]

It was another guys parts rig and I only paid $700 for the entire thing, but it still sucks to find things like the top of the injector pump unscrewed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dVhF3wBL9j0/Tw4bLAQMklI/AAAAAAAAA54/CBtni6IjSak/s720/suburban-107.jpg

I am new to 6.2's so not sure what this bit is. But I think this can't be right.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-grta4IRuKD0/Tw4bMS1qfGI/AAAAAAAAA54/ExV6tq75SBQ/s512/suburban-112.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l7mBADBwPIs/Tw4bMuFLDgI/AAAAAAAAA54/zQVcP5GrABs/s512/suburban-113.jpg

Did I mention there was alot of mouse poop in this thing? I know it was sitting for a while.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t1pQ60VWw2Q/Tw4bMEuVmAI/AAAAAAAAA54/Hofc3Ktlq6k/s640/suburban-109.jpg

So I am looking forward to all thoughts from everyone on this swap. Any info on the turbo setup? ATS maybe I am thinking.

Also I would like to keep the 700r4 & whatever the transfer case is so I can have overdrive for all the highway miles we do to get to the cool places like Baja and out in the desert. Any tips on freshing that up during the swap?

Thanks in advance!

[BrIONwoshMunky]

Did I mention there was alot of mouse poop in this thing? I know it was sitting for a while.


My truck had been sitting for a while when I got it. Instead of mouse poop, I just had, and still have, mouse nests.

One was in the air intake, somewhere before the filter housing. I checked the air filter before starting it, when I checked again after getting it home, I found I had sucked about another cubic foot of fluff and stuff into the filter housing.

I found a nest behind one of the trim panels that had the skeletonized remains of 5 baby mice.

I'm also pretty sure there's a nest somewhere in the air ducts that is keeping my vents from switching from defrost, to the floor, to the panel vents.

Needless to say, the smell when i had to first use the heater was... shall we say, odoriferous.

[JeepSJ]

Clean off the small round metal tag on the back of the transfer case and it will have the model number. I'd take a guess that it is probably a New Process 208. ATS is a good guess on the turbo as that looks like their setup on the intake.

Careful with that injector pump - the governor is in there and if it isn't assembled properly the engine will run away when started.

[john8662]

That's a BAE Turbo Setup.

J

[DmaxMaverick]

And I'll add.....

Unless you are very familiar with the inner works of DB fuel injection pumps, remove it as-is, and get it to a Stanadyne shop for reassembly, testing and calibration (could be any reason the cover was removed, including messing with the fuel volume calibration). As SJ said, if the governor is not assembled properly, it could run away on the first start. There are other really bad things that can happen if it's been messed with, not to mention just plain dirty.

[oneleglance]

Thanks for the info guys...on the turbo and the injection pump.

My plan is to pull the engine and give it a once over inspection, gaskets and gear driven timing setup.
Also I will send out the injection pump & injectors to have them looked over.
While that is happening I will pull all the other bits I want off the donor and send it away so my house doesn't look like a junkyard :)

I plan to pull
-the rad core support as I will splice that into my 70 core support in order to use the newer/larger rad.
-All the wiring harness
-40 gal fuel tank
-engine/trans/tcase
what else should I get??

Also I am not liking the look of the square fuel filter and after doing some reading around here I am looking for a spin on filter setup...thoughts?

Also living here in Phx and being a desert explorer what are the thoughts on running an oil cooler? If it is good then where to tie in and return (and I am thinking of running an Amsoil (or such) remote oil filter...any thoughts?

I already plan to run a big ol' trans cooler.

[DmaxMaverick]

Fun project! I don't know of anything better for a father/son venture. Be sure to get it done before he's smarter than you (and everyone else on Earth).

It MUST have an oil cooler. Even if you only drive it a block to church on Sundays. If you spend a lot of time slow driving in a hot climate (like exploring the desert), bigger is better.

A remote oil filter is a matter of convenience. The older transfer case will have the front shaft on the right/passenger side, so it won't interfere with the filter, like later models (1988+), with or without an angle adapter. To help with cleaner filter changes (and the ability to "prime" it), vertical is desired, but may not be ideal for off-road use. To improve filter efficiency, you can use a bypass filter system (remote), or a larger filter (original location).

I recommend reinforcing the frame in the area the transfer case mounts. These frames weren't designed with Diesel torque in mind, and can crack around the bolt holes. A simple steel plate inside the frame rails, about 8" long and the width of the frame is usually enough to spread the load. I have a template if you need the dimensions for the plate and bolt holes.

The "square" fuel filter (Stanadyne model 80) is adequate for early mechanicals. If it isn't leaking, replacing with a spin-on isn't really necessary. They are simple and (almost) idiot proof.

You will need to plumb in a fuel return line. The early gassers didn't have one.

Also, make sure to retain (or replace) the reinforcing strut that mounts from the transfer case to the bell housing (bolts through to the engine block). Since you are using the 1987 model, it should already have the HD tranny case (large "K" on the right side of the case).

Other things to check/replace:

-Fan clutch (Kennedy has the best HD clutch, and highly recommended for the AZ desert).

-Oil cooler lines. The OEMs are marginally adequate, and prone to leaks. It's usually best to have a set made locally, or get a good aftermarket set (www.lubricationspecialist.com , he also has remote/bypass oil filter systems).

-Brake assist booster. The original is vacuum. You will need to convert it to hydroboost (your donor should have all the parts necessary).

-Vacuum system. If your 1970 has vacuum operated HVAC, you'll need to retain the vacuum pump. If it's mechanical, you won't have any need for the pump (replace with pump-less shaft, some have a driver for a tach).

-Glow plugs. If they are original, or OEM replacements, REPLACE them. Use Quick Heat plugs (www.kennedydiesel.com) or AC60G (may require controller modification for longer glow cycle). A manual glow system will eliminate most of that headache.

[Robyn]

A Racor 230R2 or possibly a 230R5 filterunit 2 being a 2 micron and 5 being a 5 micron

The original radiator should have had an oil cooler in it for the engine and tranny.

Use a separate oil air/oil cooler and plumb it in using a good hose kit. (available many places locally and online.

Braided hose and JIC fittings is the ticket.

For desert running, I would also install an air/oil tranny cooler too.'

Just plug off the original oil cooler ports in the radiator, this will keep all that excess heat out of the coolant.

A definate must do on that 6.2 with a turbo is to clean it good, yank the heads and inspect the block "DECKS" and the heads.

Reinstall using the late style 6.5 turbo head gaskets from FELPRO and always use a new bolt kit. (these engines use a one time only bolt set)

They are a TTY (torque to yeild)

Felpro makes them at a right price. They come with instruction sheet.

Also when you yank the heads.

The pushrods are menat to be installed one way only, so be sure you keep the ends that go to the rockers marked.

The end thats to the rockers are hardened, the lifter end is NOT and swapping will see the ball and the rocker fail.

KEEP THEM ORIENTED correctly.

When new the rocker end of the pushrod had a copper color on it. This may have gone away so just mark them.

The rocker alignment is done with a plastic button.

Replace these little plastic gizmos.

The just drive in and have a barbed shank to hold them.

These guide buttons look similar to the little gizmo that holds the door panels on (sort of)

If they break the rockers can fall off the valves, so its a great time to replace them.

ALSO
DON'T be tempted to use gaskets on the valve covers.

Clean the covers and the heads really well and use the ORANGE OR RED hight temp RTV and goop the channel in the VC well them gently sit the covers on and install the bolts.

Snug the bolts, then let the assembly cure over night. Go back and give the bolts just a tad more torque.

Using gaskets on the VC is a one way trip to an oil leak and lots of misery to fix in in the rig.

On the pan I prefer to use the Felpro gasket that covers both the pan rails and the timing cover front area with a one piece gasket.

The rear area has a rubber strap just like a mouse motor does.

A light smear or HI Temp RTV on the block and timing cover, install the gasket, a smear or RTV on the pan (thin smear) add a little dab of RTV on the joining corners of the rubber strap and the gasket and stuff the pan on, tighten the bolts

While the thing is apart and you have the fron end off to do the timing set.
The Felpro gaskets come with a great timing set. Same procedure, smear of RTV then the gasket, smear of RTV and install the cover. (WILL NOT LEAK)

Be sure to use some RTV on the threads of the timing bolts THAT GO INTO WATER

Be sure to examine the back plate on the water pump. These do corode on the inside and if they spring a leak the coolant goes into the timing cover and the oil.

(Remove the plate from the water pump and check the inside for corosion)

Be sure to use a little BLUE LOCTITE on the little bolts that hold the plate to the water pump that are facing into the timing cover.

If one of these falls out, its bad news. BLUE LOCTITE ONLY.

Be sure to use Blue loctite on the cam gear and the injection pump bolts (3)
Blue loctite on the Dampener bolt too.

Inspect the dampener rubber for signs of shift or ????

While the bottom is off, clean the center main webs well and inspect both sides of the web in the area of the outer bolt holes for cracks.

These engines can and do crack this area.

Wash the area with brake clean and wipe dry.

warm the area with a propane torch and then let it sit and and see if any oil seeps out, showing a crack.

Inspect both sides of the center mains front and back.

Generally any cracks will be near the center line of the outer bolts, but on occasion these blocks will crack near the register fit. (where the cap seats into the block)

The front and rear mains should be fine.

The rear main on these can be either a rope, felt or a hard backed neoprene type.

Replace with a fresh neoprene seal.

I would inspect the bearings while you have the chance.

A word of caution

These engines use select fit bearings, so if you decide to chaneg the shells while your there, just be sure to plastigage before you call it good.

Generally, a set of STD bearings will do fine, UNLESS the engine has been worked on and the crank ground.

The select fit stuff was usually a combination of .0005" and .001" undersize shells.

Clearances in the .0025" range for the rods and .002"-.003" for the mains is great.

Don't go under .002" on either

Remember, these are all metric engines and any markings on the bearings will reflect metric measure.

All after market bearings are offered in STD or the usual undersizes

Only GM offered the select fit stuff.

A standard crank will normally do just fine with STD bearings.

GM tried to tweek the clearances down into the sub .002" area with the select fit.

.0025" is the sweet spot on the rods and .0025"--.003" is great for the mains.

For normal use on these engines, the standard timing parts (chain and sprockets) are just fine. The gear sets are OK but not needed.

Most times just a new chain will fix any and all issues as the sprockets rarely if ever wear out.

Another area to tend to now, SOFT PLUGS.
That old Burb has been around a while and depending on the coolant/water used the plugs are probably pretty sad on the inside.

A fresh set of BRASS soft plugs is the ticket.

Clean the bores well, smear a little permatex 2 on the new plugs and drive them in.

Better now than later up in the rig

Another tid bit.

Be sure to isntall the little bracket that bolts to the side of the block and to the forward facing stud on the starter. "TAIL HOOK"

These are a MUST HAVE to keep the starter from breaking the bolts off and possibly the block too.

If you dont have the bracket just hollar, we can scare one up for ya.

Another great addition would be to ash can the old V belt system and scrounge up the serp drive off of a 6.5

This stuff all bolts right on, JUST REMEMBER you must use a 6.5 water pump as the rotation is opposite the v belt driven pumps.

You can then update the alternator, PS pump and the AC pump (if you have it)

Great improvement.


have fun and were here if you need us.

Missy

[oneleglance]

Missy that was an amazing post, thank you very much!!

Ok snapped a few pics tonight and more questions..
This my donor tcase out of the 87 burb, looks like a 208 for sure
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kuGCLVWncUk/TxEbo-eMcrI/AAAAAAAAA6c/SZBssWNS0OY/s576/suburban-116.jpg

I don't really like how close that drivers side exhaust pipe is to the oil filter and oil pan. I will be adding some sort of heat wrap or shield or something.
It looks to me like there are lines coming out of the engine that might go to an oil cooler? I want to do an oil cooler and remote filter no matter what.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Paj5Boza-JE/TxEbo8I9XFI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/cJkxB_26CKU/s512/suburban-118.jpg

Here is a close up of those lines, and I found where the turbo gets it's oil.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2YFYeGhJwtk/TxEbpd6fZhI/AAAAAAAAA6k/t-E3a1GAsNE/s512/suburban-119.jpg

So if I keep this 208 or swap to a 241 I assume I will need to get this shifter linkage from my donor at least right?, That means I will have a different shift for the tcase in my floor than my current 205 correct?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-txaFLquHrtc/TxEbqHOdViI/AAAAAAAAA64/oX7rthhl70g/s640/suburban-123.jpg

Now you can see the bracket that looks like it is missing something in this pic? Thoughts?
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z2v3Bqanqiw/TxEbqe8jJNI/AAAAAAAAA68/lf8XvlDkJdo/s640/suburban-124.jpg

Another odd thing...it seems my CDR has a pipe that just leads to nothing...metal to rubber to the inner fender by the rad. I thought it was supposed to tie in somewhere before or after the turbo to create that positive crankcase ventilation?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--2DxU6un0FU/TxEbq4oYunI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/nsWBtPCMg78/s512/suburban-127.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y4v-Pd4Pm7Y/TxEbqz7Es4I/AAAAAAAAA7M/QJ2mbhj1qtE/s640/suburban-126.jpg

Again thanks for all the info guys, it is really helping.
At this point I should mention that my wife is the office manager of a shop that welds/machines diesel engine heads/blocks and can do it all short of complete assembly. I am really leaning towards pulling this engine, tearing it down, get it checked out and at least doing a ring/valve/gasket simple rebuild. Also I would get the injection pump looked over and new injectors. Gear driven timing set and few other goodies.

I have started digging through the tech articles and such collecting part numbers.

All thoughts welcome and keep the info coming.

[Robyn]

The hose from the CDR should connect to the intake system after the filter and before the turbo.

An easy fix for the CDR connection would be to drill a hole in the aluminum pipe coming from the "air hat" leading to the turbo inlet and taping it with a pipe tap.
Thread in a suitable barbed brass fitting and connect the CDR using a hose thats rated for oil vapor service (heater hose is not)

Be sure to use some RED Locktite on the fitting, The air pipes are not all that thick, so you can't really tighten that thing down hard. Just loctite it and make it snug.

Soem place just after the filter would be a good spot. IMHO, I would not get too close to the turbo. (Banks systems had a similar setup and used a Plastic barbed fitting)

This provides a slight negative pressure (Filter causes a slight restriction) and allows the vapors from the crankcase to be drawn into the air stream.

The Bracket looks like an AC pump bracket.


The oil cooler lines connect to the engine just above the filter on the LH side of the Block. (The rear most line, is the oil OUT to the cooler, and the front one is the return line.
Now if you use an aftermarket cooler, make sure its rated for full engine flow.
The 6.2/6.5 engines send all the oil from the sump through the pump, then to the cooler, from the cooler to the filter, then into the engine, to the lifter galleries, the cam shaft and then to the crank, rods and mains.

These enignes are whats known as a TOP oiler, meaning that the top end gets the oil first.
Some V8 engines oiled the crank first and then fed the top end.


You can use a screw on "filter adapter" to allow the use of a remote filter assembly.

Most of the after market 6.2 turbo stuff got the oil feed from the smaller oil port just above the filter.

some setups used a "T" fitting at the rear of the engine where the oil pressure switch is and run a braided line to the turbo.

The late stuff (6.5) have an extra oil port in the front RH corner of the block that is tapped into the lifter gallery.

The 208 and the 241 T cases are very similar and IIRC the shifters are the same.

YESSSSS you will need to change from the 205 shifter. That was a whole different animal..

Just a note

Be sure to use good braided lines for the Oil cooler feed.
Do not clamp rubber hose to aluminum tube or ???

This sort of stuff can lead to a failure and oil loss.

The fittings that are currently in the oil cooler ports can be tossed and standard JIC fittings used. The block is standard 3/8" pipe thread.
Just orient your new fittings so the lines can run nicely around things aand out of harms way.

DO NOT USE TEFLON tape on the threads, instead use a little Permatex 2.
The tape never goes away and if any of it finds its way into the engine, it can get caught in a lifter, the oil pump bypass or other places you DON'T WANT IT.

Have fun

Missy

[JohnC]

The Bracket looks like an AC pump bracket.


I was gonna say "Cruise control throttle actuator"...

[Hooptybass]

Im with john on this it is the vacuum style cruise control

[oneleglance]

since it seems there is some agreement the bracket goes to the cruise control...
my question is:
When I get the injection pump checked out I should be able to tell them I am NOT going to run a cruise setup? They will be able to do something with the little arms & such so they aren't flopping around?

I don't care about cruise control and would rather leave the bracket off and have a cleaner setup.

[DmaxMaverick]

It won't make a bit of difference at the pump. The pumps are the same, cruise or not. And, yes. It looks like the vacuum cruise bracket. If you won't have cruise, dump the bracket. There are plenty of other things to skin your knuckles on.

[oneleglance]

So I had some time over the last few days to start tearing down the donor rig...
And thanks once again to Nick my new diesel guru for tips on extra stuff to get from the donor!

This is what I started with. Lots more rust than I first thought which has made the tear down process harder as things don't want to come apart. We are so spoiled here in the desert to be pretty much rust free. Not sure where this rig spent most of it's life?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R4DhDaynDjs/Txz4oX1zE7I/AAAAAAAAA-U/zJ52ZWVTzkw/s750/suburban-144.jpg

I am so not happy with the way the previous folks did the hose work. All I can think of is to print this pic and tape it to the 70 burb with a note "Don't do this!"
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0Z9TMdAKMwg/Txz4oD5bqiI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/9VBbEu4wBSQ/s640/suburban-145.jpg

The old radiator tells a real horror story...clearly it was a leaker, and the oil coil or lines or something was also letting a bit go. It does have metal tanks which I like. I plan to take it by my fav rad shop and talk to them about repair vs replacement, I just don't want plastic tanks.
I am also debating getting the trannie & oil coolers out of the rad...thoughts? I don't do much cold weather stuff (hate the cold) so not too worried about that.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c8BCDXynHg8/Txz4oRAye7I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/mH80-1TMi8c/s750/suburban-146.jpg

I was finally happy to get to this point which is much closer to pulling the engine. Don't worry I was taking plenty more pics of how all the tubing & wiring went.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j8M9j_PEyCU/Txz4o6meNEI/AAAAAAAAA-o/g_N6OC00t9g/s640/suburban-147.jpg

A better view of the turbo setup. Nick thinks it is a Banks & ATS combo hack job. Maybe put together with craigs & fleabay parts?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v2Wf6Lq1mto/Txz4pCMcbaI/AAAAAAAAA_A/CQTJWoHkoH4/s640/suburban-148.jpg

This crossover pipe will be done differently no matter what it takes. I can't stand the way it runs along the oil pan, way too close to the belts and looks like it must cook the harmonic balancer.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bqcgeMAYMKo/Txz4pUfnIDI/AAAAAAAAA-w/uuvqFqzrPT0/s640/suburban-149.jpg

[oneleglance]

Always fun to find cooked wires that the previous owner just did hack jobs to get around.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fsMAAfrPWEw/Txz4pePn_1I/AAAAAAAAA-0/_GPrkCmnS_I/s640/suburban-150.jpg

But on a note of joy I will say that having a wife who is an office manager of a diesel machine shop is nice when you need a part cleaned. This is the junkyard J code manifold that is ready for install.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OCxTM1ea7nk/Txz4qFqC6yI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/LJhZsMbn4wA/s512/suburban-151.jpg

Oh joy, power door locks will be in my future. I like the looks of the old iron but some modern stuff is nice :)
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qpO5sh_PpzU/Txz4qJoh5YI/AAAAAAAAA_E/L23gEva0Gtw/s750/suburban-152.jpg

The previous owner already hacked past the glow plug controller, which is fine by me as I plan a full manual setup anyway. I would rather a stealthy glow button as a theft prevention measure.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JFYKdoWroxk/Txz4qr1SeLI/AAAAAAAAA_U/gBCfllspLkM/s640/suburban-153.jpg

And there are still a few bits I want like the 40gal tank & skid plate. I also got the rear aux heater, rear AC, receiver hitch, a bunch of wire, connectors and I need to try to get out the front shoulder belts since they are blue!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ermjpSXZdPg/Txz4qkMljBI/AAAAAAAAA_g/Iouts5GEF7g/s750/suburban-154.jpg

Monday should be "pull the engine day" and then I can get the donor carcus out of the way and pour some concrete for a new workshop to be ready for the transplant surgery.

My plan with the engine/trans/tcase goes like this:
Take heads & block to my wifes shop, have them look for cracks and tell me if it all is any good.
If all is well then I will ring/bearing/gasket it and reassemble.

Take the turbo to a company we know very well and have them check it out.

Take the IP in for a rebuild with top parts so I can run junk fuel in Baja and maybe some bio. New injectors of course.

Take the trans into a shop for a look over and make sure it is ready to continue life behind a oil burner :)

Combine my tcase with a Dodge one off of craigs to get one that has fixed yokes.
Check into the clocking rig and see if I can make that work.

Any and all thoughts welcome!

[Yukon6.2]

Hi Oneleg
You may want to watch ebay for a new milspec injection pump.They have ceramic plungers,which are supposed to be the toughest to stand up to poor quality fuel and jet fuel.
I'v bought one for 6.2 for $75.00,just have to switch the shutoff.They come 24V.There are ones for the 6.5 as well,havn't got those as cheap,but sounds like you have some time befor you need it.
Thomas

[oneleglance]

So I got the engine out & torn down last night and all the bits off to their shops today.
Figured I better post some pics and get some thoughts from everyone...

Some of these lines are pretty bent up...I think I will look into either a new set or a partial to replace the bent ones.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C50raA4OKcI/Tx9R_e27fCI/AAAAAAAABAE/kALOojiT-Og/s640/suburban-155.jpg

Here is the passenger side head...nothing scary to my naked eye. The gasket looked good and although I am no expert I didn't see anything that jumped out at me.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k6qfWx7SpyQ/Tx9R_MAgPWI/AAAAAAAAA_8/rPJ37DzQork/s750/suburban-156.jpg

Drivers side head...also nothing bad to the naked, untrained eye of mine. Also the block deck looked good.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7E6yxtDAizE/Tx9R_dqaQLI/AAAAAAAABAA/2k4zJhump6c/s750/suburban-157.jpg

This was stamped on the pistons....no idea what it means. But I am sure I will hear from my wifes shop if things are way out of wack.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m7bljV6fTQ0/Tx9SAdoFNSI/AAAAAAAABAU/JFY1pjbNKTg/s640/suburban-158.jpg

This turbo oil return will get redone with a welded bung. The leaking must have been a real pain.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XMLN5yQKcjk/Tx9SA5OR1UI/AAAAAAAABAc/fgOUGHRH_tg/s512/suburban-159.jpg

No idea what all this means but I didn't see any cracked bits and all looked good.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SoxAXDvDySU/Tx9SBKpNPzI/AAAAAAAABAk/2WKlJkzBoyY/s640/suburban-160.jpg

Well almost all...the timing chain had some slack in it. I plan to run a gear drive setup so I won't have to worry about chains any more.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-deAYyb5Qwrg/Tx9SCJbfMaI/AAAAAAAABAs/SEZi5ZfyDgc/s512/suburban-161.jpg

[oneleglance]

This looked a little strange but the more I looked at the seal the more I figured it might be ok. Of course the machine shop will be happy to tell me if all isn't well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DmzxAOCdlpo/Tx9SChU1abI/AAAAAAAABA0/WptO9b7oEYE/s720/suburban-163.jpg

I think this means the crank & rods have not been messed with before. Or at least not ground down.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MTrIzeog9n0/Tx9SDuBQaDI/AAAAAAAABBA/0daWGX0vQhM/s512/suburban-164.jpg

This was a bit weird...when I went to pull the fuel pump pushrod only 1/2 came out. Who knows if it had been run like this. The cam looked ok and the fuel pump also so I don't think it was run for long, if at all.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ap-7pGPfCZw/Tx9SEIXB_JI/AAAAAAAABBE/s3fi5vkC43s/s640/suburban-165.jpg

A little more turbo info for anyone in the know...I don't know and thus why I post the pics :)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2zwYezCwyuw/Tx9SElUWL1I/AAAAAAAABBQ/Q5dgeknxVOg/s640/suburban-166.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kEgCiGgSQsA/Tx9SE2RQpAI/AAAAAAAABBU/dJ-K8Z-qa5A/s640/suburban-167.jpg

[DmaxMaverick]

Pistons are .5mm oversize (one step). Bearings are not original, but are standard size (no crank grind). The rear main journal looks like it could use some polishing, and perhaps the other journals if they are similar. They should be a mirror finish.

Head gasket adhesion looks good. The rest of the heads look good. Check the prechamber cracks, and make sure none cross into the gasket fire ring, and they're fine.

Check (thoroughly) the main saddles for cracks.

It isn't unusual to find a broken pump pushrod. Make sure you find the rest, and replace with new (or well seasoned used, still intact). They often run for years with broken rods.

Good call on the gearset. That'll eliminate that concern.

[oneleglance]

The teeth on the flex plate are pretty worn....anything better than factory for that part? I actually prefer factory parts when possible.

I know the later engines used a gear reduction starter..and thing better than factory on that? Will I need a different tailhook bit?

Any good source for the timing cover (the lower part)...mine has a big ol' crack in it.

Anyone ever run a hard metal line to bring oil to the turbo? The owner of the shop I took the turbo too recommended the idea instead of the braided steel/rubber line I have now.

[DmaxMaverick]

There are good aftermarket flex plates available, but it's hit and miss. The last decade or so has been more miss than hit. The OEM's are generally more reliable. Use OEM, or toss a coin, IMO.

OEM starter, without a doubt. Have yours rebuilt by a local shop for the best results. If you get an exchange, stay with OEM brand (ACD) core. Aftermarkets with "Lifetime Warranty" will usually require you to use it often. Do you really enjoy starter R/R on a regular basis? (same goes for alternators, with a couple improved exceptions). Check out www.alternatorparts.com. You will need a different support bracket for the reduction starter.

There are a couple sources for a new cover (don't recall right now), or used. Check the TDP Classified Ads Forum (http://www.thedieselpage.com/classad.htm) or your local recycler (most have a parts locater). New or used, have it properly cleaned and anodized, then paint the external surfaces (important ounce of prevention). If you get a universal or late model, make sure it has either an undrilled or plugged CPS hole (don't need it with MFI).

You can use hard line for the turbo oil supply and return. I strongly recommend stainless steel for both, and isolate-support it (Adell clamp type) at least every 6". If left unsupported, it will crack at the fittings or bends, due to harmonic vibration. Using steel will leave a high risk of corrosion failure, which will kill the turbo, and likely a lot more.

[oneleglance]

thanks for the great info...
I have been reading the tech books I ordered from this site and plenty of old threads.

So while I have some down time wating for things to come back from various shops lets have some fun figuring out a few things:

Tach...I would like to install something in my factory dash but I have no idea what drives the tach on a 6.2...any thoughts?

Since I will be running a hydroboost for brakes and the AC setup is going under the rear seats do I need the vac pump for anything? Can I just remove that part and block it off? I know I need to drive the oil pump but is there a later model part to drop in instead?

[DmaxMaverick]

If you don't need vacuum for HVAC or cruise control, you can omit the pump.

Incidentally, where the vacuum pump resides, is where the tach driver will be located. In any case, with our without a vacuum pump, the drive shaft is necessary, as it engages the cam and drives the oil pump. Either locate a tach signal generator shaft, or contact peninsulardiesel.com for one (the most usual/productive course). You can then use an OEM instrument panel gage for the model you are using. If your current truck doesn't have a tach, you'll have to locate one. Perhaps www.lmctruck.com . Otherwise, you'll have to source one from a recycler, or use an aftermarket.

[AJMBLAZER]

Hey oneleglance, I have the starter and CDR valve you paid me for all boxed up and awaiting your instructions. Haven't heard from you in over 10 days. Just trying to get your attention.

[oneleglance]

Well one of the shop guys came in and told my wife that the block has cracks (she is the office manager of a diesel engine machine shop).
She went out and snapped these pics with her phone and sent them to me.
I have not spoken to the owner who runs the shop to see if he is willing to try & fix it. I do know that he wasn't real excited about working on a 6.2 in the first place :)
So I think I will start the hunt for a 6.2 block or complete engine in case he won't work on it, if anyone has leads.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_AKN5YuQ7io/T0R_ZzH4dnI/AAAAAAAABM4/dX12EuuQuAs/s640/IMG_0202.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PkwYgRDO4d4/T0R_aMeCNPI/AAAAAAAABM8/0xzNQUOyvLI/s640/IMG_0203.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HQFKzZ_beUo/T0R_Zy9GV1I/AAAAAAAABNE/BIuBQxWIOaA/s512/IMG_0210.jpg

[AJMBLAZER]

Hey oneleglance, I have the starter and CDR valve you paid me for all boxed up and awaiting your instructions. Haven't heard from you in over 10 days. Just trying to get your attention.

oneleg, still waiting for that UPS label. You paid me for the starter and CDR valve weeks ago...just waiting for your shipping instructions.

[arveetek]

I'm glad you made it over here to the DP! I've visited with you over at Expedition Portal.

Sorry to hear about the block cracks. Those look pretty nasty.

I've got two clean blocks that need a home. Too bad you weren't closer to me.

Casey

[oneleglance]

Hey Casey pm sent on my friend :)

Shipping label sent Blazer, sorry for the delay on my end.