Cr@p!

[dieselluver]

I posted here a while back about a 93 6.5 with water in the oil and compression in the rad. Well, I took it apart and found a blown head gasket and had the heads checked and they were ok. I cleaned everything up and put together and there are a lot of darn bubbles in rad and overflow tank. I am really pi$$ed off, cause this takes the profit right out of it, and I was fixing it cheap for the neighbor. I don't know where I went wrong, I've done loads of headgaskets on CAT motors, and tried to be just as careful here. Just wondering if anybody has had similar problems or any ideas for me. I am dreading calling my neighbor.
Thanks for the help.

Ryan

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
After the head gasket repair do you still have water in the oil? Did you try a radiator pressure test? Is it possible that the Block cracked :mad: and caused the head gasket to go on that cylinder? My 3 local GM dealers have only sold a handfull of head gaskets but all of them have done LOTS of 6.5 blocks.

[sidedump]

Pull the pan and check the #8.

[dieselluver]

Thanks for the replies. Yea, I had the rad out and took it to get repaired(end tank leaking) and they said it shouldn't be fixed cause it was crap on the inside. I just got it running this evening and took it for a 5 mile test drive, and when I got back it was bubbling a lot in the overflow tank. It sure could be a cracked block. :mad: Well, I need to talk to the neighbor. Thanks Guys!

Ryan

[Peter J. Bierman]

Have it running for a wile with the rad.cap off.
Had same on 6.2 gasket repair, takes a lot off time to get all the air out off the system.
Let it idle with heater on and once in a wile rev it up, top up coolant when needed.

might help, did for me

Peter

[dieselluver]

Well, I done some troubleshooting, and it doesn't look good. Pulled the thermostat out and found air bubbles coming from the right head. It will blow bubbles on a cold engine (and lots of them too!) So I pulled one glow plug at a time and ran engine and found that the bubbles went away on #8. It didn't even make this many bubbles before I pulled the heads. So, I guess I will pull the right head off, and see if I screwed the gasket up or what is wrong. Thanks for the replies.

Ryan

[dieselluver]

BAD news. #8 Cyl cracked. Now the neighbor is talking about stuffing a Cummins in it. Not sure if I have the time, it would be quicker and cheaper to put a 6.5 longblock in it and trade it off. Anyway, Thanks for all the help. tongue.gif

Ryan

[JeepSJ]

Is it the block or the head that is cracked? If it is the head and the crack is between the valves, go get a K-Line KL3900 kit and sleeve the water passage. I have a kit from when I did my heads (preventive measure) - send me the head and I'll put in the sleeves for the cost of the parts.

[dieselluver]

I guess I didn't specify, it is the BLOCK that is cracked. It's in the cyl wall on #8.

Ryan

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
If you tear it down any more I would be interested in knowing where/how the crack originated. Mine started in the piston oiler hole on the main web and then was creeping up the cylinder walls between 6 and 8. There was about 1/32in separation in the main web with the cap still in place! :eek: My engine ran great but was losing coolant at 1gal/100miles. I'm turning my block into a card table! :D Tell your friend if he plans on putting in a new block to do a search on this site for Block ID. The NEW blocks are made by Navistar and are supposedly much better.
L8r
Conley Janssen

[dieselluver]

Yea, not sure what's gonna happen yet. The crack is at the rear of the cyl wall right near the top of ring travel. Hopefully I can put a short or long block in it and get it out of here. :rolleyes:

Ryan

[More Power]

Is this the original '599 block, or has the truck had a newer engine installed at some point in the past?

MP

[dieselluver]

Jim, it is a GM Goodwrench with about 81K on it. Thats about all the info I was given.

Ryan