brherrmann
08-06-2012, 13:56
Here is my 6.5 Turbo Jeep. I started this conversion last summer by finding a SBC belhousing and purchasing a Novak adapter plate to mate the existing AX15 Jeep transmission to a SBC bellhousing. Other Novak parts used include a large capacity aluminum radiator, a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and engine mounts with weld in brackets.
This project included doing full frame off body restoration and new front fenders. I cut into the firewall by the right head to get the engine back as far as possible and carved into the right fender to clear the turbo. The bigger radiator (big in jeep standards, small for this 6.5) meant moving the reservoir container to the old battery location.
My old 1988 Chev 6.2 donated many parts to this project including the battery trays which were bolted to the floor behind the front seats. Also, the Hydro-boost unit replaced the Jeeps original vacuum brake booster.
This engine includes mizer pre-combustion cups for fuel economy, a high volume water pump with dual thermostats and ofcourse the modification needed to clear the 4911 DB2 injector pump. The fan is a 20" 6 blade from a courier van. Currently I've only driven about 1000 miles including fairly hot days and cooling does not seem to be an issue. Also installed is my old factory oil cooler from my 1995 6.5T (this truck now has a DSG cooler) and a small power steering oil cooler from NAPA. Both these fit in front of the radiator.
The modification shown in the last image was done to simulate the Jeeps' crankshaft position sensor so that the tachometer would operate. I took the 6.5's 4 point CPS, filled in the spaces with weld and machined in the Jeep timing marks that are normally on the flywheel. Although I was not yet sucessful in convincing the computer that this diesel is a 4.0L straight 6 gasser, I haven't given up yet. I will attempt to alter the camshaft sensor in the future.
Also in this picture is the camshaft gear drive from DSG.
I did run into a few set backs along the way with this project. I bought 2 6.5 engines from a wrecker, I had the 6.2 from my old 1988 Chev, and I bought a 6.5 with a broken crank. Out of the 4 engines, only one did not have the cracks often seen at the main bolt holes. This is the block I used to machine with 0.020" oversize pistons. After assembling and getting this beast running I found that coolant was getting into the oil. After some disassembly and investigation, I found a crack below a rear headbolt hole on the left side. So, this block was scrapped and my next best block used. Fortunately I found a Full-Torque thread repair kit on Ebay for a good price. I had the machine shop install the inserts on the damaged main bolt holes and re machined my 2nd block, then I transfered everything over and reinstalled this engine.
So far I am pleased with the results. The front end has settled about 1" below its normal height. I plan on replacing the tired front springs and adding a 3/4" spring spacer. This should set the height back to normal.
This project included doing full frame off body restoration and new front fenders. I cut into the firewall by the right head to get the engine back as far as possible and carved into the right fender to clear the turbo. The bigger radiator (big in jeep standards, small for this 6.5) meant moving the reservoir container to the old battery location.
My old 1988 Chev 6.2 donated many parts to this project including the battery trays which were bolted to the floor behind the front seats. Also, the Hydro-boost unit replaced the Jeeps original vacuum brake booster.
This engine includes mizer pre-combustion cups for fuel economy, a high volume water pump with dual thermostats and ofcourse the modification needed to clear the 4911 DB2 injector pump. The fan is a 20" 6 blade from a courier van. Currently I've only driven about 1000 miles including fairly hot days and cooling does not seem to be an issue. Also installed is my old factory oil cooler from my 1995 6.5T (this truck now has a DSG cooler) and a small power steering oil cooler from NAPA. Both these fit in front of the radiator.
The modification shown in the last image was done to simulate the Jeeps' crankshaft position sensor so that the tachometer would operate. I took the 6.5's 4 point CPS, filled in the spaces with weld and machined in the Jeep timing marks that are normally on the flywheel. Although I was not yet sucessful in convincing the computer that this diesel is a 4.0L straight 6 gasser, I haven't given up yet. I will attempt to alter the camshaft sensor in the future.
Also in this picture is the camshaft gear drive from DSG.
I did run into a few set backs along the way with this project. I bought 2 6.5 engines from a wrecker, I had the 6.2 from my old 1988 Chev, and I bought a 6.5 with a broken crank. Out of the 4 engines, only one did not have the cracks often seen at the main bolt holes. This is the block I used to machine with 0.020" oversize pistons. After assembling and getting this beast running I found that coolant was getting into the oil. After some disassembly and investigation, I found a crack below a rear headbolt hole on the left side. So, this block was scrapped and my next best block used. Fortunately I found a Full-Torque thread repair kit on Ebay for a good price. I had the machine shop install the inserts on the damaged main bolt holes and re machined my 2nd block, then I transfered everything over and reinstalled this engine.
So far I am pleased with the results. The front end has settled about 1" below its normal height. I plan on replacing the tired front springs and adding a 3/4" spring spacer. This should set the height back to normal.