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dragonriot
03-17-2013, 16:42
So, the last few times I started my truck, I heard what I knew was a starter problem... I drove to campus, and hoped at the end of the day it would start again, but of course, being 10 miles from home, and everything being closed already, it wouldn't start. The starter SPINS, but doesn't engage, so I called for a tow to home. Today was the first chance I had to look at the problem, and found to my surprise that there were no friggen BOLTS in the starter!!! I went to Advance Auto to grab some starter bolts and all they had were ones to fit a 5.0/4.3L and another pack for all GM from 1968 to 1989... So my first question is which pack of starter bolts will fit, if any... and where do I get the right ones if neither pack fits?

My next question, since the starter is still IN the truck, is how the hell you get to the hanger bracket that is still attached and holding the starter up in the engine? I can't line up the bolt holes, and because I can't remove the starter, I can't see if the bolts were just turned out by the *******s at the shop I took it to to replace my transmission mount, or if they were sheared off. If they sheared off, I have to take it to a shop to get the ends of the bolts out, but if they were just turned out, I can do the fixes myself...

So if anyone can provide me with the bolt length and threading I need, and a way to get the starter off the hanger bracket, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've googled it, and youtubed it, and the ONE video I found didn't actually have the removal or installation included.

sctrailrider
03-18-2013, 05:07
The bolts are a dealer only item, the bolts are knurled so they fit tight, don't use any other bolts!!!

You may need to remove the inside fender well to get to all the bolts and see if any are broken off....

dragonriot
03-18-2013, 21:40
Thanks! I got the parts diagram and the bolts from the stealership... They said the washers are discontinued, so I went to the local hardware store and got 4 3/8" washers to sandwich in there for the 1.95mm thickness I need by specs. I've never used double washers on anything that had to be torqued, but it's only 29ftlbs, so I think it will be ok. Now, I just have to hope the weather isn't so bitter cold tomorrow that it prevents me from working in the driveway... some days I really wish my mom's Sebring Convertible wasn't stuck in the garage with a bad top. Oh well, here's to good weather!

If you guys think I'll be good with a single washer on each bolt, let me know.

Robyn
03-19-2013, 07:40
Getting at the front facing hanger on the starter is easy, just jack the rig up, remove the RH front wheel, BLOCK THE TRUCK SECURELY

The bracket and wires can be accessed easily through the inner fender access hole thats behind the rubber flap.


Good luck

Missy

dragonriot
03-19-2013, 10:58
Ooo... thanks Missy, I totally forgot about that flap!! On a sad note, I just "measured" the hole depth on the starter bolt holes, and found that the old bolts are definitely sheared off in the block... On one hand, that means I have to find someone that has an easy-out in Milwaukee so I don't have to buy one, and on the other hand, because the bolts are sheared off in the block, it tells me the holes aren't elongated... yay! lol...

On that note, anyone here from Milwaukee and wants to help me fix this bastard? lol

Robyn
03-19-2013, 11:23
getting the broken bolts out is easy, just be very happy that the block area where the holes are is not broken off.

A single easy out is cheap.

Mark the center of the bolt with a center punch, then drill a 3/16 to 1/4" hole in the bolt.

Be sure to drill a small pilot hole first, like a 1/8th" then do the 1/4"

Once this is done, your set.

Use a easy out that is four sided and then tap it into the hole lightly.
Once in, my bet is that the broken bolt/s will come right out.

Far too many folks miss the great access that the hole behind the flap affords.
It also allows a grand view of all but the RH rear glow plug too.

Getting the glow plugs out requires removing the shield tubes, sliding them out the wire, then unplugging the wire. Reverse the procedure to replace.

Good luck

Missy

DmaxMaverick
03-19-2013, 11:32
If they're sheared off clean (usually the case), it may be easier than it appears. All you need, to start, is a left-turn drill bit. Often, the bolts will turn right out. If they don't, then the EZ-Out is needed. They aren't usually in that tight. If they are, a bit of heat applied to the block (propane torch), and some wax (crayon) wicked into the threads can help.

DmaxMaverick
03-19-2013, 11:40
If you have to use the EZ-Out, I prefer the spiral type. They're less likely to break, and much easier to remove. The square types are cheaper, but the cost or effort goes through the roof if you break one. That, and the spirals are infinitely reusable. The squares will eventually break, and never at a convenient time. I have a set I've used for over 20 years. If you need more "bite" than the spirals offer, you can always use a square after the attempt.

dragonriot
03-19-2013, 13:27
Thanks for the help guys... I've done my glowplugs once from the flaps, but that was right after I bought the truck, so forgot the flaps were present. I think I actually have an easy out already, just have to find the thing. Now that DMax described what they look like, I recall buying one a while back for something else, just can't remember where I put it after the job was done. Anyway... it's so damned cold here right now with the wind chill, my hands freeze up in mere minutes, even with gloves and coveralls on. I'm going to jack up the truck tomorrow and get this done, because I want my truck back on the road!! I can't stand driving small cars... lol

dragonriot
03-24-2013, 21:57
So, after the cold snap ended, I finally had a chance to get under my truck and check on the bolts... They had been sheared off, and so I got an EasyOut and started to work drilling the pilot holes... then they screwed all the way in to the block and it dawned on me... if I can screw them into the block that easily, I should be able to unscrew them just as easily. I stopped drilling and went to the garage to find the best tool for the job... and then it appeared... a flathead screwdriver. lol. They screwed right out, no problem at all, and I got the new bolts in without any issues.

Thank you all for your help, and hopefully I won't have any more problems anytime soon.

Robyn
03-25-2013, 08:00
You got very lucky.:D

Glad this was the case.

New bolts along with making sure the rear bracket is on and tight should keep things in good order.


Missy