Hayden Radiator Mist System

[sctrailrider]

Hayden Radiator Mist System (http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Products-Radiator%20Mist%20System/Content.aspx)

Been reading a lot on other forums about some folks having some heat issues, I have seen this before when looking around. I don't know what the kit cost, or what kind of spray nozzles they use, but for a small amount of cost and time, this could be of some help for those in the west or anywhere for that matter...

I know that a water mist will cool it down, this type of cooling is done in lots of different applications everyday..

I have a 60 gallonhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#) tank in my bed that is being used for the WMI system so I have PLENTY of water carrying ability, wire a button switch and a good pump/nozzles and ready to go ???????

Thoughts anyone... what type nozzles would you use and what size ??

For myself, I don't get overly hot towinghttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#), but maybe someone else might....

Here is the pic of my hidden tank .... holds 60 gallons, made a tank from 3/16 6061 T6 plate then cut the top of a tool box off and welded them together, looks like a tool box not a tank.... it use to hold dieselhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/#) on long trips, now water.. all the fittings are in the bottom.

Pros - Cons anyone????

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/picture.php?albumid=15&pictureid=272
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/picture.php?albumid=15&pictureid=271
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/picture.php?albumid=15&pictureid=270

[More Power]

Those who have incorporated the cooling system solutions we've pioneered and written about here in The Diesel Page have not had engine cooling problems. Fans, fan-clutches, intercoolers, turbochargers, radiator maintenance, ect. will cure the problem without the tedium of water mist.

To learn more see: http://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm

It doesn't take all of the ideas mentioned above to improve cooling system performance to a point where overheats are eliminated. A lot depends on your individual situation. Usually, a 9-blade fan and a correctly operating fan-clutch will solve 90% of the cooling problems 6.5 owners experience. If you're running more fuel and more boost, then more needs to be done. What we've done here at The Diesel Page through the years solved these problems long ago. Jim

On edit.... Unless you're using distilled water to spray into the radiator, it'll create a crusty layer of calcium and other elements on your radiator just like humidifiers do in your home.

[sctrailrider]

Thanks for the input... I'm not having any cooling trouble.

[arveetek]

Usually, a 9-blade fan and a correctly operating fan-clutch will solve 90% of the cooling problems 6.5 owners experience.

I need to get a new fan clutch. My 6.5L's temp will slowly climb and climb when towing and pulling long grades. The fan will never kick on until engine RPM drops below 1500 for a few seconds. I've learned to shift into neutral and let it idle for a few seconds and then kick back into gear, and this will allow the fan to engage and then cool things back down. Very bad design, really. I'm confident with a correctly operating fan clutch, I wouldn't have to keep my eyes glued to the temp gauge.

Casey

[trbankii]

On edit.... Unless you're using distilled water to spray into the radiator, it'll create a crusty layer of calcium and other elements on your radiator just like humidifiers do in your home.

That was my thought.

[More Power]

I need to get a new fan clutch. My 6.5L's temp will slowly climb and climb when towing and pulling long grades. The fan will never kick on until engine RPM drops below 1500 for a few seconds. I've learned to shift into neutral and let it idle for a few seconds and then kick back into gear, and this will allow the fan to engage and then cool things back down. Very bad design, really. I'm confident with a correctly operating fan clutch, I wouldn't have to keep my eyes glued to the temp gauge.

Casey

Casey - Those using the factory GM-x turbocharger would likely see the best towing performance if they kept the engine rpm nearer to its torque peak will pulling grades with a trailer (1800-2200 rpm). The turbocharger will be in a more efficient part of its compressor efficiency island and will be producing the most boost pressure its capable of. Boost pressure generally translates into torque - more boost, more torque. More boost translates into more air through the engine, which also helps to keep engine temperatures in check.

Winding out the engine rpm in 2nd gear while pulling grades works against those factors, when using the factory turbocharger.

Some have been lucky with the factory fan-clutch, and got one that engages properly at 200-205 degrees ECT. Unfortunately, most don't engage till the engine temperature has crossed 230-240. This is well behind the curve, and usually results in yet higher engine temps. The Kennedy fan-clutch has solved so many of these fan-clutch issues. It's worth the cost. A properly engaging fan-clutch is perhaps the single most important component in the cooling system, when it comes to preventing overheating.

Jim

[arveetek]

Casey - Those using the factory GM-x turbocharger would likely see the best towing performance if they kept the engine rpm nearer to its torque peak will pulling grades with a trailer (1800-2200 rpm). The turbocharger will be in a more efficient part of its compressor efficiency island and will be producing the most boost pressure its capable of. Boost pressure generally translates into torque - more boost, more torque. More boost translates into more air through the engine, which also helps to keep engine temperatures in check.

Winding out the engine rpm in 2nd gear while pulling grades works against those factors, when using the factory turbocharger.


Jim

I agree. I try not to rev my engine when towing, but allow the torque to do the work for me. Still, my temps rise pretty quickly, and the fan will not engage until the engine speed drops close to idle.

I definitely need to upgrade my fan clutch. I've already installed the dual t-stat housing. Now I just need a high-output pump and better fan clutch, and I should be good to go!

I drove a 2002 Duramax towing a mid-size 5th wheel the other day, and I was surprised at how often the engine fan engaged and disengaged on an 80 degree day. The engine temp needle never moved.

Casey

[More Power]

I drove a 2002 Duramax towing a mid-size 5th wheel the other day, and I was surprised at how often the engine fan engaged and disengaged on an 80 degree day. The engine temp needle never moved.

Casey

Exactly. Most 6.5 owners who never had a properly engaging fan-clutch are surprised when they learn how a fan-clutch should operate. At first, many of them are dismayed when they hear the fan roar. I find it to be a welcome sound.

Surprisingly, some first-time Duramax owners complain when they hear the fan roar so often on a warm/hot day. They think something is wrong. If they'd experienced some of the 6.5 overheating problems we hear about, they would welcome the roar and be thankful for it.

Again, and for the benefit of those who haven't put a lot of thought into it, a properly engaging fan-clutch is perhaps the single most important component in the cooling system.

Jim