Coolant choices

[Robyn]

The overheating issues with the 6.5 are well known and we have beat all the ideas many times.

I want to use standard GREEN juice as adding water in a pinch is no biggy, just add more green later to maintain freeze protection at the level desired.

Now, the subject of steam bubbles forming in the system at various HOT SPOTS

I have read about Water Wetter, and that it reduces the incidence of bubble formation and will allow the coolant to actually run cooler by allowing better heat transfer.

OK
Is this snake oil sales or does this stuff work ???

Anyone have experience with it ?????????????

Missy

[AKMark]

When I used to work at an automotive shop, we talked about the green coolant.

The mixture of materials in the motors we have been using since the early 90's have caused the green to become a thing of the past.

I typically use the all makes/models stuff and have had no issues with it. I have used orange (Dex-Cool) as well in the past, but having no issues with big Yellow, have made the switch so that it is easier for me to add whenever I need to.

Water Wetter does keep you running cooler, however in our applications you may find that when you aren't pulling up a grade, it may run too cool.

The folks I know who use it, use it for racing/drag strip/tractor pull applications to cool the beasts that love to overheat.

I wouldn't recommend it for a 6.5 that sees outdoor temps below 50 degrees, as your heater may not be warm enough to keep you pleased. Your efficiency will drop as well, since no matter what thermostat you run, you will run cold.

[Robyn]

Hmmmm

I have never had my Dahooooley run too cold.

Cram cardboard in the grille :D

I am sitting dry right now and have all options open.

I like the standard coolant 50/50 water and glycol mix.

I hate that red crap.

I want the option to be able to water the beast from a creek if need be and not worry about the coolant.

I do believe I will try a jug of that water wetter stuff and see wasssssup.

Worst case scenario, dump it and run regular coolant.

It would be a real switch to worry about the thing running too cold.
Damned near a novelty ;)

[DmaxMaverick]

Just use Cat ELC. It'll feel right at home inside that yellow thing.

[Robyn]

:D
Maybe, never know.

I stopped using the Cat ELC the last time the kitty got drained (Big Rig)

The truck shop recommended using good old green juice and a filter with the additive to stop cavitation erosion.

The truck came with ELC originally.


I just don't want to be needing to worry about what gets added to the cooling system.

Like running the Synth oils.
Get out in the sticks and need oil, and it always seems the stuff can't be found

[Dvldog8793]

I have used the amsoil additive with glycol mix and saw a 5-7 degree drop in temps in BuRT(Big Red Truck:D) That is a 1996 with 6.5

I tried the it in my blazer (M1009)but that vehicle runs so cool that I took it out. In cool(not even cold) weather I have trouble getting up to a good op temp. Amazing what a difference no AC makes!

[sctrailrider]

I use Evans coolant and won't ever go back to the old stuff.. never had any heat trouble towing heavy in the heat here in SC....

And it last forever & isn't harmful to pets..

[rustyk]

On another forum, experienced members like Red Line Water Wetter and RMI-25; I use the latter, but I saw little change.

[Nacla]

I use Evans coolant and won't ever go back to the old stuff.. never had any heat trouble towing heavy in the heat here in SC....

And it last forever & isn't harmful to pets..

You're using the Evans coolant in which engine? Your Cummins, or a 6.5L?

I've been to Evans' website and watched several videos, and am curious how well it would work in a pre-97 6.5L engine not equipped with the High Output water pump & associated crossover/dual t-stat assly.

The thermal conductivity capacity (if that's the right term for absorbing engine heat) of the Evans product, compared to conventional 50/50 coolant doesn't seem to be specifically addressed on their website. They focus on vaporization of the water component into steam, and point out that steam is unable to transfer the heat out of the head.

Is this truly an issue in our engines? Or is it non-applicable hype?

-Nacla

[Robyn]

Yessssss

The 6.5 is notorious for "hot spots"

With the vast majority of the fuel being burned in the precup (head) this is where all the heat is, and it must be rejected.

Once you get extreme hot spots you get/can get steam pockets, or more likely bubbles.

The bubbles insulate the water from touching the metal, and then the temp of the metal part heads north at warp speed and the bubbles become more prominent and the cycle continues.

GM discovered this and decided to introduce the High volume pump to scour out the areas within the head that had stagnant spots.

Stagnant water soon boils and creates steam pockets.

A coolant that will not boil will continue to absorb heat away from the metal parts.

The water wetter is "supposed" to lessen the surface tension of the coolant and in doing so stop the bubbles from forming.

Air, steam and any other void that does not contain liquid does not transfer heat as well.

Steam is a poor conductor of heat.

The original heads on the 6.5 had some spots that had little flow, and thus were prone to cracking as well.

I am not sure if the new AMG heads are better, but have been lead to believe they are.

An indirect inject engine is more prone to overheating, especially when they are being asked to make a buttload of power.

The 6.2 NA engines rarely had heating issues, due to the fact that they were normally low power.

The 6.2 came into being as a mileage getter.
Back in 1982 the 6.2 in a 1500 4x4 or K Blazer could easily get 25 plus mpg on the hwy.

Once folks decided to twist up the fuel, add turbos and try to drag 10000 pound trailers around the trouble began.

GM still limited the power to 190 SAE to keep some semblance of reality.

The 6.2/6.5 were never meant to be a 350hp moose motor.
And then folks want more :eek:

The direct inject engine is an entirely different critter.
The combustion is in the piston, not the head, and the heat can disipate into the cyl walls far easier.

Yessss grasshopper, the 6.5 does have these issues.

Missy

[sctrailrider]

You're using the Evans coolant in which engine? Your Cummins, or a 6.5L?

I've been to Evans' website and watched several videos, and am curious how well it would work in a pre-97 6.5L engine not equipped with the High Output water pump & associated crossover/dual t-stat assly.

The thermal conductivity capacity (if that's the right term for absorbing engine heat) of the Evans product, compared to conventional 50/50 coolant doesn't seem to be specifically addressed on their website. They focus on vaporization of the water component into steam, and point out that steam is unable to transfer the heat out of the head.

Is this truly an issue in our engines? Or is it non-applicable hype?

-Nacla

In the 6.5, I like it better myself..

[Nacla]

Robyn,

Thanks for the edification...

So, you're thinking of using Water Wetter/water because it's a lot less expensive than the Evans waterless coolant?

Or is it because Water Wetter/water is more readily available and the waterless coolant is not?

Regards,
-Nacla