Transfer Case

[autocrosser]

What is the going price for a new/rebuilt transfer case for a 95 Z71 with the 6.5. My sons just gave up the ghost today.

I haven't found a source for one other than the dealer. Any suggestions there?

[DmaxMaverick]

Unless the case is "grenaded", the overhaul is a no-brainer, and pretty cheap. Even local tranny shops shouldn't hit you too hard.

I have one in a wrecked '95 Z71 I'm parting out. The tranny and transfer case is fresh. If you can justify shipping, I'll work with you. I'm not looking for profit, just loss recovery. If interested, let me know. You can contact MP for my email addy.

[lupey6.5]

is that tranny an auto or man?

[DmaxMaverick]

It's a 4L60E behind a 350 gasser. Tranny has less than 1000 miles on it.

[StephenA]

You can rebuild the transfer case yourself for $250-300, including new chain. A shop near me just rebuilt one and charged the customer $850. It wieghs only about 50 lbs and is pretty easy to drop out...

DmaxMaverick: Is the forward diff/axle in your parts truck the GM IFS 9.2" ring? How much are you asking for it?
Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

Stephen

It is OEM GM IFS, but not sure of the dia. on a Z71(K1500). It may be OK for a 2500LD (6 lug), but probably not a 2500HD (8 lug), I just don't know. Of all the IFS's I've owned and been familiar with, I've never seen any need to replace one, in spite of the IFS/SFA arguments. Replaced a BUNCH of the SFA's, though.

No reasonable offer refused.
I did have the truck listed in TDP classified for a while and did sell some parts to folks from here. I'm not listing the truck again, so no haggling out loud, to keep with the rules. As said, I'm not in it for profit. I'll be glad to hook you up, if I can. Contact MP for my email.

[StephenA]

Thanks DmaxMaverick,
Sorry, I hadn't read the stipulations about haggling- didn't mean to color outside the lines. Mine is an 8 bolt, which is a GM IFS 9.2" diameter ring. The 6 lug is the 8.2. I need to rebuild mine (don't know what's wrong yet, it engages but doesn't turn the axles) but I also need my truck for work. I was exploring swapping in a working IFS, if I could find one I could afford, and then repairing the stock one later and reselling it or keeping it as a spare. If the damage is not to severe, I may be able to inspect and fix it without out removing it? My new Helms set arrives tommorrow. So far, I've been working in the dark and getting by with the help of TDP.

[StephenA]

reply to autocrosser's email:
Hi,
When my front diff/axle began engaging but not driving the front wheels, I thought at first that it was the T-Case. Before I found out it was the foward diff, I went to a transmission shop that just happened to be rebuliding an NP241, and they let me look at it in detail. There was a ton of metal in a magnetic steel wool pad right by the lower drain plug. The aluminum shifting forks had little nylon pads on them which had disintegrated, & the forks were damaged. The metal fragments had chewed up the chain, etc., which was also loose.
There is a seal between the tranny & T-case which can leak tranny oil into the T-case, over filling it with gear oil, instead of the light ATF it uses. Replacing it only requires dropping the T-case. I haven't had time to do mine yet, but it needs it.
The one I saw was run on low or no ATF, & the forks, which have some contact all the time, failed catastrophically- not uncommon for high milage 241s, I hear. I found a rebuild shop on line which sells a kit for around $300.00 and they ffered to walk me through the process. As it turns out, aside from the seal, My T-case is fine and the chain is tight, so all I need to do is replace the seal.
I will post this on your thread so it becomes part of TDP archives and so that other members who have more experience might respond. Let me know if you want the link I found for the rebuild kit, & I'll dig it up. Sorry to hear the factory manuals were so lacking on data... Mine arrive tomorrow from Helm- I'll see if they are any better.
UncleWally on TDP said the only tough part on removing the T-case was lining it back up for bolt in. I made a table for my floor jack & found some styrafoam pieces to hold it in the proper position, but as I said, I haven't had time to drop it yet.
Good luck - keep me posted.
Stephen

[autocrosser]

I have a little more info on the transfer case problem now. He was driving along at about 70 and it just suddenly went into a neutral condition. When he shifted it into 4wd high it did nothing. When he went into 4wd low it worked but seems to be stuck in that condition now matter what position the shifter lever is in (the lever is connected and feels like it's going thru detents but maybe thats on the shifter itself)

I don't know if the front axle is engaging but I would think that's a different issue.

The transmission is shifting thru it's ranges but just stuck in transfer case low condition.

Any info would be appreciated. We will probably take it out tonight but would like to have any hints available if this trouble has been encountered before. The GM manual is worthless on this subject. It doesn't even address the stuck in low range condidtion or any repair info.

[StephenA]

Hi again,
No problem with you emailing me- just wanted to keep others in the loop so you could benefit from their knowledge.
From what I saw in the open 241 I referred to, it sounds like the fork broke off. There's a recent thread on this in the past month or so- just do a search on NP241 or fork. Do you plan to rebuild it yourself?

[cruzer]

Stephen A's right. It's the shift forks and nylon pads. They are worn out. This is a very common problem with them. The fluid in these cases has to be changed fairly often. They do not hold much fluid and they circulate alot.

[autocrosser]

If it's the shift forks, I assume it's possible for the shift assy to migrate into the neutral position and I guess when he moved the shift lever to the 4wd low position it moved it into low and there it stays????

[StephenA]

That's my take on it, with out actually seeing it.

[autocrosser]

I forgot to mention that we will be removing it tonight for a peek and hopefull repair. I have a 4 post lift so we will be able to get it up in the air a little (10' ceilings). It works great on my little British cars but the real ones can't go up enough. It's better than laying on the back under it though.

[autocrosser]

We are ready to drop the transfer case but need to know where to separate it from the transmission. Does the Transfer case adaptor stay with the trnasfer case or does it get unbolted from the transfer case to drop the transfer case.

It looks like either way the bolts are hard to get to. We took the transmission rubber mount out and supported the transmission on a transmission jack to make it easier.

[StephenA]

Hot damn, Joe- you've got a four post lift!!??? Ok, Ok, I'll calm down, but you've got to promise to email me the lift some day... ;)
Regarding the adapter I have't had mine off yet, but UncleWally (TDP member) has. The guy at my local GM dealer said the seal I mentioned is between the Tranny and the adapter, under a plate (in the adapter). My Helms came today (unbound, the dogs). I will attempt to flip thru & find a pic, if I can keep from dumping pages all over the floor...

[autocrosser]

The transfer case is out and we found the shift fork for that engages the planetary gear broken. I also had become hot and melted some aluminum on to the shifter groove on the gear.

I noticed the fluid level was low so all the seals will be replaced along with the shifter and it's associated gear. also the nylon fitting on the ends of the forks and also the plastic piece on the upper part of the fork that rides in the groove.

We removed it with the adaptor to the transmission attached. It was hard getting to the upper bolts though.

[curmudge1]

Just a note, seems like someone else mentioned this item in a previous post (my memory fails), might be of interest to you NP 241 rebuilders:

http://www.drivetrain.com/gillies/Tcasesaver.html

Perhaps someone will come forward with personal knowledge? FYI, FWIW, HTH. ;)

[StephenA]

autocrosser- Glad to hear you got it out; sorry there was so much damage. Are you ordering a rebuild kit or just the parts you need from the dealer? Any advice on the hard to get to bolts?
curmudge1- Thanks for the post; I'll check it out...
Oh, that's the link I posted last month. I think I'll put one one mine when I rebuild it. They also sell the rebuild kit I mentioned above.

[C.K. Piquup]

I replaced my T-case w/new GM unit.Warranted,new,and$800+/-.Have spare to rebuild as well.I have other trucks and,also,these T-cases are desireable to off-roaders w/lighter vehicles.Mine was jumping into "N" on decelleration(actually,between"N"&"2HI").Probably the synchronizers.Not too serious,yet,would have cost at least half what new unit cost.I drive hi-mile and felt this course was best for me.Just $.02,but no one suggested option of buying new.Good luck. CK

[StephenA]

C.K. Piquup - Wow New one for $800+??!! The tranny shop charged one customer $850 for just a rebuild. He could have had a new one!?

[C.K. Piquup]

Yep,I here ya.That`s w/20% discount,but still.Add 20% and it`s under $1,000 w/3yr-30,000mi.waranty.

[autocrosser]

We replaced the transfer case in my sons 95 Z71 6.5 after replacing the shift fork and new shaft seals. We tested it on the ground it shifted thru all ranges before putting it back in the truck. It took awhile to figure out how the shift fork that controls the HI/Low range shifting was installed but it went together.

When we tried it out in the truck it didn't do too good. Couldn't get the shift lever to go all the way forward nor would it go back far enough to engage the gears there.

Took the thing out of the truck again tonight and opened it up thinking we did something wrong. After analyzing everything and watching the shift selector plate (the one hooked to the shift arm on the outside) we determined that internally it was moving all the way to it's limits like it should.

When I looked a the external shift lever (I had marked the shift rods position on the case for 4wd hi/lo etc) the shift lever doesn't ligng up with the in the correct location. The rod length hasn't been changed. the best I can tell is that the shift lever on the transfer case appears to have slipped on the shaft. It appears to be pressed/spotwelded to the detent plate on the inside of the case but it's possible it has slipped.

When 4wd hi is selected on the cse the lever is almost horizontal to the case. I don't think the rod could push the lever back up thru the other positions form a horizontal position.

Could someone please check the position of the case shift lever when it is in its full forward position. This would be when the truck interior shifter is all the way back toward the seat which I believe is 4wd hi. I would also like to know how close to the case the top of the shift lever is when it is in it's full reaward position. My calculstions show it should be around 1/2 inch from the case on the max limit of it's travel.

I don't believe I have a source for referencing here. It's a 241c transfer case which should be on all the 1500 and 2500 series trucks around 1995 etc. Any GM 241 should be the same.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Stumped in NC