6.2L no start after fuel leak, prime? need help

[jpm_speed]

Went to start the truck last week and after starting it stalled out like air got into the system. Found leaking fuel lines and replaced them as well as the in line pump at the same time.
The fuel system is primed enough for fuel to be coming back down the return line to the fuel tank. (truck bed is lifted so that it's easy to check)

I read somewhere (but can't find it anymore) that there's a way to block the return line with a screw or something to help with restart after a pump replacement.. Can any one tell me which line is which on the IP?

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Blocking the return line won't speed things along. Once you have fuel flowing from the return, that's all that's needed to know it's getting fuel to and through the injection pump. Charge the batteries completely, then loosen the fuel injection lines at the injectors on 3-4 of the easiest to reach. Crank the engine until fuel weeps from the fittings. Tighten them, allow the glow plugs to cycle fully (at least twice, key on, key off, key on), and it should start. It may stumble and lope for 30 seconds or so, and may stall, but once a few injectors are mostly bled, it should start without much more trouble. The remaining injectors will bleed quickly once it tries to run.

There are procedures to get the fuel system bled quickly, and prevent excess air in the IP and injectors after making a repair, or replacing the fuel filter. Many folks make the mistake of allowing the IP and injectors to empty the fuel, then have to go through the process of replacing it.

[jpm_speed]

Thanks for the welcome :)

Where do I crack the injector lines? right at the fuel pump or at their entry to the block?

I've cranked through about three full charges of my batteries... I think I'm killing them slowly with all this extra work. I do have a wabasto coolant heating system.. should I run that first to warm up the block? it's about 5C here (or 36F)

[DmaxMaverick]

Absolutely use the block heater. Webasto or electric (or both, to speed it up).

Loosen the injector line nuts at the top of each injector. Only about 1/2 turn is needed. Also, you can remove the glow plugs during your priming crank cycles to increase the cranking speed and significantly reduce the load on the starter and batteries (a little extra work now, a lot less later). Once you have weeping fuel at the injector lines, tighten them and crank again until you have a mist of fuel escaping the glow plug holes. This ensures fuel is actually injecting into the cylinders. If you do this, a start should be nearly instant once everything is replaced and tightened. It's also a good time to test your glow plugs, with them out. Just apply 12V to them (ground to body, + to spade). If they get hot and glow within your glow plug timed cycle, they are good.

[jpm_speed]

Thanks I got it going....
As soon as I started your cracking the lines method the batteries dropped again so I had to get a bigger charger as my little charger just wasn't cutting it. As soon as I did that things started to work much more in my favor.