Stuck Glow Plug - A Slightly different Question

[RatsMC]

I have a 6.2L with a Banks Turbo on it. I love this combination - except right now.

The glow plugs appear to never have been changed and I I understand why: the down pipe goes right across them making removal next to impossible.

I got 3 out but the 4th (second from the rear, passenger side) is stuck. The problem I have is that the down pipe makes direct access impossible so I can't just pull it with vice grips.

It seems that breaking the tip and removing it through the injector hole makes the most sense but here's my question: how do I do that?

Any recommendations on how to break that tip off?

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

I do not recommend breaking a plug on purpose. If it's stuck, tighten it back in and forget about it. If it isn't broken now, it won't likely break by itself later. Leave it disconnected. If you are able to replace the other 7 plugs, you won't miss one (or two, or three, in most cases). While removing stuck plugs isn't that big of a deal, there is risk involved. That risk outweighs the necessity of 8 plugs in most cases. Unless you're planning trips to the Great White North, you won't notice one missing. In Oakland (CA), you can just about start year-round on 2-3-4 plugs. I don't use them at all during midsummer, about 250 miles S/E of you.

[RatsMC]

Thanks for the welcome!

At this point, I have damaged the threads a little more than I think will allow me to get it back in - or more than I feel safe trying.

I have the OTC removal tool coming in Tuesday so, hopefully, that will work with the Banks exhaust manifold.

If that works my problem is just that it is expected to rain starting tonight and probably never, ever ending. Since I can't get the truck into the garage, I can't really put it back together until it stops.

[DmaxMaverick]

If it's only a little stuck, meaning you can't get to it enough to lever it out, it may just be a bit snug. If that's the case, the removal tool may work. Many of the removal tools only offer another method of engaging the threads and turning it out. If that's the case, buggered threads won't be any better there. The GP threads are pretty soft, and the head is cast iron. If it will thread back in straight, it should go all the way to the seat.

I understand about the weather. I do most work outside, and that storm starts here tomorrow. Lotta wet with no end in sight.

If the tip breaks off in the head, STOP what you're doing and follow the tip removal procedure. The key is to NOT allow the piece(s) to fall through the flash hole in the pre-cup, and onto the piston. You'll have to remove the injector and use any of a number of retrieval methods. My latest preference is using a Shop-Vac hose at the injector hole, while pushing the broken tip into the head. The vac gets all of it, and the little pieces that may be with it. I've done it many different ways over the years, but this method seems to be about the best, in most cases.

[RatsMC]

I got the OTC tool and the problem was not the threads but rather the exhaust manifold is too close to the GP for the split nut to fit.

So, I went with your recommendation DmaxMaverick and just put the thing back in and forgot about it. The obsessive part of me is screaming about it being in there dead until the end of time or I pull the motor out.

Anyway, buttoned everything up and it started up like a champ. Actually better than it ever has so I am pretty sure the plugs on that side were mostly dead as long as I have had this truck.

If anyone is interested, the OTC tool will work most of the time on stock 6.2s but it will not work on cylinder 5 on one with a Banks turbo on it. However, the JJandA tool will work on any 6.2/6.5. The OTC tool is $40 and the JJand A tool is $100.

That said, there are a lot of ways to get around using either.

Thanks for the assistance. I am happy now (as long as I don't think about the dead plug in there).

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't worry about one dead plug. Your engine won't. Glad to hear you have some success.