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View Full Version : Need some input on pump options for my Used Engine Oil.



Lonesome7.3
12-10-2016, 18:29
I have been looking at pneumatic diaphragm pumps for moving my dirty oil. I have found some on eBay that are pretty affordable. I am wondering is a $250 pump is going to work. That being said, I was looking at an electric sewage pump the other day at Harbor Freight. Plugging the pump into an electrical outlet would be so much more convenient. Would a sewage pump handle the harsh petroleum products in my dirty oil drums? If not, is there an electric alternative that can?
I really prefer not to buy two pumps. Is there a way to use one pump for both? Maybe purging the dirty oil before pumping clean into my truck? Any input is appreciated.

trbankii
12-11-2016, 07:14
The main issue would be whether the seals will stand up to petroleum products - and then whether the additional contaminates of the dirty oil would further pose a problem. If the seals are merely rubber, oil is going to degrade them over time.

I can’t imagine trying to use the same pump for both dirty and clean oil. You’d spend an awful lot of time cleaning everything out before running clean oil through it.

Lonesome7.3
12-11-2016, 09:16
Kind of what I was thinking. I was wondering if a sewage pump would be different than just a water pump.

trbankii
12-11-2016, 09:18
A sewage pump may be more robust to handle more than just plain water, but coming from Horrible Fright I somewhat doubt that they’re using more substantial materials for the seals.

Lonesome7.3
12-11-2016, 09:33
Agreed. Their pump got me thinking about using one.

convert2diesel
12-11-2016, 15:14
Agreed. Their pump got me thinking about using one.

HF has a viton seal kit for their pressure water pumps (Less than $100). Used these pumps for my bio-diesel operation. Output volume may be too high for what you intend to use it for.

How much oil will you be transferring at a time? I built a transmission/engine oil exchange system that used two 10 gal translucent HDPE tanks (so I could see the oil level) and hooked up a $150 HF vacuum pump @5 inches vacuum for sucking out the oil and my compressor @5PSI on the other to transfer the new stuff.

If memory serves, total cost was less than $200 bucks and could do a tranny oil change in under 1/2 hour.

Bill

Lonesome7.3
12-11-2016, 15:19
Whenever I fill a 55 gallon drum I will pump it into my dirty tank. That might happen every couple of months. I am interested in your set up. Would you happen to have any photographs?

bmoeller
12-12-2016, 13:06
Another option: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200596412_200596412?

Lonesome7.3
12-12-2016, 17:46
That is neat. But i think I would have it wore out quickly.

convert2diesel
12-12-2016, 22:40
Whenever I fill a 55 gallon drum I will pump it into my dirty tank. That might happen every couple of months. I am interested in your set up. Would you happen to have any photographs?

Sorry no photos. Just duplicated the tranny oil exchange system they use in the quick lube joints except I used stronger tanks that could take a slight vacuum and low pressure.

For your uses, check with your local propane distributor. They always have "stale dated" tanks of all sizes. The tanks are not necessarily bad, just beyond their useful life as pressure tanks.

Remove the brass valve from the top and then fill the tank with water. This is for assurance it won't go bang when you start drilling into it. Would tend to ruin your whole day. A 100 lb tank should hold close to your 55 gallon drum of oil.

In the bottom of your tank, drill out a hole sized to thread in a 3/4 inch NPT fitting that you will attach a ball valve to. Where you removed the valve from, you want to install a brass tee and two smaller ball valves. One will have an air fitting on it and the other will have a vacuum fitting (steal one from the AC system on your car).

To drain your 55 gal drum, connect a hose to your bottom fitting and open the ball valve. Start your vacuum pump and connect it to the AC fitting on the top and open the valve. This puts you into suck mode and will drain your 55 gal drum surprisingly quickly. Let it suck some air in at the end to drain your hose then close off your bottom valve. Close your vacuum valve. To transfer the oil into your other tank just apply air pressure to the other top valve, insert your hose into the other tank and open both top and bottom valves.

Again, less then $200 bucks including a HF vacuum pump and all the valves.

Some safety considerations:

1. Propane tanks are rated for 150 PSI working pressure so the burst pressure is about 3 times that, WHEN THEY ARE NEW. To be safe, keep it under 30 PSI.

2. I have taken a propane tank down to 29 inches of vacuum (negative 1 atmosphere about minus 15 PSI) but that was on a new tank. Pressure vessels are just that, designed to handle positive pressure, not necessarily vacuum. A good example is your typical 55 gal drum. They have a burst pressure of around 40 PSI. Less then 10 inches of vacuum (negative 7 PSI) will crush them flat. To be safe, I would keep the vacuum below about 15 inches for your propane tank.

You really don't need a lot of either pressure or vacuum to move liquid unless there is a significant height difference. Even then you would be surprised just how little of each is needed.

Hope this helps

Bill

Lonesome7.3
12-13-2016, 16:38
I was just at HF and found nothing that could help. It was a small store though. Maybe they have the stuff I need on line.

convert2diesel
12-13-2016, 21:55
I was just at HF and found nothing that could help. It was a small store though. Maybe they have the stuff I need on line.

Two 2.5 cfm pumps ($99 each)

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-61245.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

If you do any work on automotive AC systems would suggest you go up to 3 CFM ($159)

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-cfm-two-stage-vacuum-pump-61176.html

This might make your connections easier plus will let you do your own AC ($60)

http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-60806.html

The rest of the bits you can source through your local hardware store plumbing department and your local auto parts store.

Bill

arveetek
12-14-2016, 14:15
Thanks for that info, Bill! Very cool stuff.

Casey

Lonesome7.3
12-14-2016, 14:48
Yes, very cool. The store near me did not have any of that in stock.