Harmonic Balancer

[94 at Large]

Assuming I have all the necessary tools, how much time and difficulty can I expect when pulling and replacing the harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley on a 94? Anything else I should be looking at/for while doing the job? Asking this in the first person but will be having a local shop do the work. I realize they can probably quote me a price but having a little insight of what some of the members have run into will give me some idea of potential cost overall.

Thanks

[More Power]

You'll need a damper puller (necessary) and installer (make it easier and safer for the related engine components).

[JeepSJ]

With all the proper tools, well under an hour. Change the belt. Inspect the rubber in the lower pulley - if the damper is shot, it is likely the rubber in the lower pulley isn't too far behind.

[DmaxMaverick]

Tools at the ready, the service manual shows 1.0 hrs. It also shows .75 hrs if it's warranty (apparently, the warranty tech's aren't afforded the requisite union break). This is for R/R of the starter (installation of the flywheel lock), belt, dampener, pulley, and front main seal (highly recommended, if original or 10+ yrs). I've done a few, and that sounds about right. Much easier on a lift, but it doesn't affect the time much, if at all, compared to a creeper. A new crank bolt is recommended, probably rightfully, but I've reused many without issue. Use blue Loc-Tite on a clean bolt (a new OEM bolt should have the thread locker already applied). Torque is ~200 ft/lb.

[artfull dodger]

Is there anybody near Kokomo with the tools and know how to do my damper and pulley on my '94? While it looks fine right now, she is due and I would feel better if both were brand new AC Delco parts. I think she is also getting due for a fresh starter. Cranking RPM isnt where I like it as it gets colder and yes all the grounds have been cleaned and so forth(batteries are both just over 1 year old). Thanks Mike and Michele T

[94 at Large]

FYI, took shop a bit longer than an hour to change out harmonic balancer. Everything came off OK but when it came time to put the Fluidampr on it would not go. Multiple attempts to ensure it started straight and it would go on a bit and stop. Even hammering on the darn thing wouldn't move it. :eek: (LOL, jk to see if you are actually reading this) Ended up having to call the company to find out the ID of the harmonic balancer to make sure we had the right part. ID was 1.5995 with a 10k +-. Crank was supposed to be 1.0602. Mic'ed ok but ended up using a barrel sander to take a little off the Fluidampr. Once that was done it slipped on easily. Don't know if there was some kind of coating on the balancer and it was on the small end of their tolerance to begin with or perhaps a slight taper. I am never surprised when stuff like this comes up when working on this truck. It's always something. Anyway, a heads up just in case anyone has the same issue.

On a side note, the OEM balancer and pulley were still good to go, IMO, but I felt justified, all the same, to replace with more durable parts. Age had me more concerned as my mileage is only 87k miles.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
FYI- I had the same issue with both the fluidampers I installed. They both had to be debured and polished a bit. I think they make them a tight fit and expect 50% of us to have to polish them up to get a good fit. on my second one I considered warming up the damper in my rod oven and the cooling the crank nose...but I could feel machine marks in the damper so I just cleaned it up and it went on.