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View Full Version : Uneven Clack, Clack, Clack Even With new injectors.



john8662
09-14-2004, 19:43
For those that intalled new injectors I wanted to know if you ran into this. I installed a set of new injectors in my 95 K2500 suburban because I was there and the originals had 108k miles on them. I also wanted to get rid of an annoying clacking sound that I would sometimes get when I pulled a trailor at idle. I figured one injectors was sticking making a knocking or clacking sound. Well after installing the new injectors, it clacks all the time. I will try and see if I can rip and audio file and let ya'll listen. Its not the normal diesel rattle, its a little more, I don't know if its more than one cylinder or not. I just wonder if the injection pump is weak and the new injectors are giving it trouble, maybe not delivering the right pop pressure. It doesn't seem to idle any better, I know the idle is right at 500RPM and other 6.5's ive driven are more like 750. I have driven it 200 miles since the new injectors were installed and new exhaust. Going down the road it runs fine, and also once you rev it up past 650-700RPM. I'll also pull codes to see if I am getting any cylinder imbalance codes or any at all. I was just curious if anyone else noticed this. The 2nd ever pump on this engine has 80k miles on it, and has had the FSD replaced once.

John

[ 11-08-2004, 04:08 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

Dvldog 8793
09-15-2004, 04:36
Howdy
Before I replaced my pump, I had the same problem. Always at idle, but not all the time. It would sound almost like a rod coming loose! It always went away within a few minutes. After I replaced my pump I've never had it back. I also replaced my injectors within 3k miles of the pump. I think you have some pump issues, did you put in stock or High-pop injectors? Are all the lines secured and not touching anything? While it is making this noise if you crack the lines 1 at atime you should be able to make the noise go away and then determine what hole has the problem. I would think that if it is a pump problem the noise might jump around. If it is an injector then it should stay with one hole.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley Janssen

catmandoo
09-15-2004, 04:43
i just replaced the inj's on my 94 with 145,000 miles and the 2 things i noticed were a slower idle and more diesel clatter,and it seems to have one thats lots louder then the other.it also was very hard to start when cold,i would have to crank for a good 3-4 seconds before it would fire,also it was even a little slow when hot,but after working it with a trailer behind it for 250 miles thru some good size hills,it seems to idle better and it fires right up now when cold.

john8662
09-15-2004, 06:41
Dvldog 8793,

thanks for the reply, I installed new bosch injectors, just stock turbo injectors, not hi-pop. I have noticed a little harder starting too. I figured the injection pump might be weak, but I wanted to change the injectors to make sure that was it, because I am not getting any injection pump codes which the dealer needs to replace the pump. I thought about cracking injectors, but I have already put all the shields on the turbo side, which is where I think the noise is coming from. I did check for rubbing lines. While I was installing injectors I did pull the intake manifold because I have a slight diesel leak, I didn't find it, I made sure all the lines were tight. I also forgot to write down the IP model number, too late now.

Dvldog 8793
09-15-2004, 10:33
Howdy
Your dealer doesn't "need" codes to replace under warrenty. They just have to WANT to help you. My local dealer replaced my pump with 126,000 miles on the truck and all he had for symptoms was me saying "It don't run right, I thinks it might be that pump thing." :D Anyways, if your truck is still under warrenty I would really try to push the issue with a dealer.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

john8662
09-15-2004, 11:06
Originally posted by Dvldog 8793:
"It don't run right, I thinks it might be that pump thing." Thats funny!

Yeah, I have 108K miles on the rig, its still under warranty. I just didn't want to take it to a dealer and get a bill for diagnostics and them tell me that it isn't the pump. I wasn't sure what was making the noise, before the injectors, it was very intermittant, sometimes I would hear it and sometimes it would run very nicely. Now its more of all the time, same noise. Its hard to tell where the racket is coming from, just lounder near the turbo, but all the exhaust routes there. Just like you said, kinda like a rod knock.

ttpost
09-15-2004, 12:20
i read somewhere earlier on one of the posts that if you pull a wire thingy off the pump thingy :D that it will set a code and they will replace it,might want to check that out

charliepeterson
09-16-2004, 19:05
I wouldn't worry too much about the "clack". I think what your hearing is the diesel combustion. Sometimes it takes a little while for the injectors to "seat".

Wait for the thermostat to open up and really beat the snot out of it. This noise will lighten up. sometimes it's good to "drive it like you stole it"!

john8662
09-22-2004, 05:23
Well, took the burb to the dealer, they kept it overnight and test drove it. The technician ran diagnostics and everything checked out as normal. Had the standard timing TDC offset said there were NO codes or trips. They think its running normally. I also mentioned the unexplained diesel fuel leak under the intake, and the "miss" it has while going down the road, it'll just cut out momentarily (old news). The final result that they told me is it basicaly runs like a truck with 100k miles. Guess its just worn out eh. I'll get a sound clip of the knock sound soon. just an update.

Turbine Doc
09-22-2004, 19:56
I have the clack also after the swap to hi pops, gets really bad at sub idle 600-700 rpm JD (GMCTD) was real worried about the noise, got me worried also, but it's been there since the install.

Now if you are having IP problems stall and the like, pull center plug on IP attempt start, it won't but will set a code the dealer will have to act on, plug back in & drive to the dealer, may take multiple trips as 1st thing they may do is clear codes.

john8662
11-08-2004, 07:17
UPDATE! 11/8/04

Well, the sound doesn't seem to be going away, its actually becoming more pronounced. I think I have something other than an injector or pump problem. After 1k miles on the new injectors, they seem to be "breaking-in" and the engine runs more uniform now. I just have the clack. The clack isn't really a new problem, its always had it when I ran it hard pulling a trailor. Now it does it all the time, so its worrying me, for the time being I am going to park it, until I can tear it down. I think its a top end noise, maybe a bad lifter or a rocker arm thats about to come off due to a broken retainer clip. The engine is also developing a miss.

Things I have done:

I did the injector test, removed the turbo cover (the lower hard to remove and replace one, not the top turbo metal cover) and started the engine and cracked open injector lines one by one listening for the sound. The sound continued through all 8. I repeated the line crack just to be sure on each cylinder, keeping them from firing.

I have recorded the engine with my laptop for you guys to hear, maybe you've heard it before. I am sure its not a normal sound, and its probably a warning of more expensive repairs if I don't pay attention.

This clip is taken with the mic in the engine compartment for 1 minute, the clip is 1 MB and in MP3 format (most players support it)

EngineCompartmentG1.mp3 (http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/65knock/EngineCompartmentG1.mp3)

The next clip is from the Passenger side fender well, same file format, just 834KB in size.

PassengerFenderWell.mp3 (http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/65knock/PassengerFenderWell.mp3)

Yet, another clip from the Drivers side fender well for comparison, 705KB in size.

DriversFenderWell.mp3 (http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/65knock/DriversFenderWell.mp3)

Finally, the last clip, this is from the cab, so its weak, but it is a REV cycle, first idle, then 1k then 2k RPM, smaller 500KB file.

Rev.mp3 (http://members.cox.net/acmdsl/65knock/Rev.mp3)

All the clips were taken at the same time, with the engine up to its normal operating temp 180 degrees. The sound you are listening for is the "clack" or metalic sound, that is uneven with the rest of the engine sound.

Thanks for the listen, I hope to figure this problem out.

[ 11-09-2004, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

DickWells
11-08-2004, 19:31
John.
This probably won't mean a thing. But, here goes.
Is the pump tight? It should be, if the dealer checked the offset, but strange things can happen, even with dealers. I found my pump loose, a couple of years ago, and I had similar symptoms. I could make the clacking move all around the spectrum, just by grabbing the pump and turning it. That pump was installed by a dealer! One nut was nearly off the stud, and the other two were over a turn loose.
Just a thought. Good luck.
Dick Wells

tom.mcinerney
11-08-2004, 20:03
I noticed a lighter, louder sound with new injectors on my '95 , which surprised me, because a mechanic acquaintance and me noticed smoother/quieter noises from his Mercedes and my NA VW with new injectors.

We may be hearing rod bearing problems?
Maybe the new injectors need to break in?
Maybe there's a delay while the worn FIP builds pressure?

If the new injectors are working properly, the injection pulse will be (is) sharper at start and stop. This may be causing cyl pressure to rise faster, overcomming bearing lube cushion?

Or, the sound may be "piston slap", from the piston rocking in the cyl about the small end pin bearing axis. The 1980's Mercedes diesels have a fine tone like bells ringing when idling, which i've been told is piston slap.

I also hear more noise from psgr turbo side; probably more 'ringing' from the large manifold+turbo assembly there.

The sheet steel turbo cover also has a high-pitched clack...but i think our concern is a sort of travelling, yet sort of consistent knock associated with the combustion pulses....

Thanks for raising this issue. It's been bugging me. Ive been thinking an oscilloscope with some transducer might be able to give us a picture more clear than our ears can discern. That would be nice for diesels, where the ear at cold-starting is nearly as good as a compression test, but once running, the sounds get hard to distinguish.

john8662
11-08-2004, 21:59
Thanks for the reply's, I checked the IP, its mounted well. I have also looked at the balancer and dampner pulley, although I haven't pulled them yet to get a closer look.

Tom, you raised a point already in my mind, piston slap. I have been told by a few mechanics that GM bored the #6 and #8 holes bigger thinking that the piston would become hot, expand, and grab the walls. If this is true, then that might explain why there are so many failures in that area, not just heat, just room for wear with a loose piston. Also, are you getting this noise on your 6.5 with new injectors? I did have the noise before, but as mentioned, only when worked hard, now its all of the time, and louder.

I guess the next steps are going to concern a compression test on this engine, since I have the day off thursday, thats what I'll go do. If I have a piston slap issue or a wrist pin issue, one hole will certainly have lower compression?

[ 11-08-2004, 10:10 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

BuffaloGuy
11-09-2004, 11:00
My truck just developed a similar noise. It came while I was pulling a very hard pull a long ways. However, I only notice it when the motor is hot and not under heavy load. Simliar to yours.

My take is that my IP is getting weak and one or more of the injectors is sticking. The IP has 145,000 of mostly hard pulling miles on it.

I thought of piston slap, bad valve etc. but ruled these out as the truck has almost zero blow-by and does not use any oil.

If the IP is weak (which it must surely be) it would stand to reason that when it was hot or worked hard it would have an even harder time popping the injectors.

Perhaps, this is the same problem you are having?

david
11-09-2004, 20:27
My 96 stsrted a tapping a year ago.
I thought it was the vac. pump!!
A month later i blew no. 8 piston!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

john8662
11-09-2004, 21:10
David,

did the tapping you heard in your engine before it self-destructed sound like the noise (the clinking) that I have in the sound clips of my engine?

rlvelin
11-10-2004, 15:41
It sounds like you recorded my truck. I have pretty much the same story. Noticed the sound shortly after I bought my truck with 188,000 miles. Replaced injectors at 204,000 miles, engine runs better but the clack is still there and hasn't gone away or decreased. I believe it is due to piston slap in my case since I have some blow by and oil loss. I Did a compression test when I replaced my injectors with a jimmy-rigged tester made from of an old injector body, air compressor hose, hose clamps, a few various fittings, and a real compression testing gauge. The #6 and #8 holes were slightly lower than most others and all holes were in the 280-300psi range. The psi numbers are not an accurate representation of actual compression for my engine due to my jimmy-rigged setup and the engine was tested cold, but it did give me some good qualitative data. At any rate, good luck.

kowsoc
11-10-2004, 20:28
Great clips... ;)

I think you have a leaky injector on the drivers side. I think the "clack" is fuel that has leaked during the intake stroke detonating in the pre-combustion chamber as the piston is still coming up on the compression stroke....if you catch my drift. :D My 94 idles smooth but my Dad has a 96 that sounds just like yours. He is a retired heavy duty instructor and says the sound is a leaky injector but hasn't gotten around to changing the bad one(s) yet. Did you buy new or rebuilt injectors? I have heard of some bad rebuilds. You should be able to crack one injector line at a time to find the bad one, take it back for an exchange and try it again.

Good luck!

john8662
11-10-2004, 20:48
kowsoc,

thanks for the listen. Actually I have installed new injectors, no remans, because of past experiences. I did the injector crack routine and came to the conclusion that its something internal. Although, the sound did seem to lessen on some injectors, but the engine was missing when I loosened a preticular line. This sound did exist before the injector change, but intermittant. Now its an everyday problem. I am going to run a compression test on the engine Thursday evening, I'll post back the results, if the numbers are good, I'll look into a new IP, I guess one thing at a time eh.

tom.mcinerney
11-12-2004, 07:08
>>Also, are you getting this noise on your 6.5 with new injectors?

Yes, and surprised at more noise. From the audio riffs , similar to yours.

Spent some time thinking over diesel sounds. The big direct-injected mills with mechanical pumps have a rythmic , loping cadence. This probably related to governor activity. Presumably our electronic pumps govern better , but imperfectly. This a possible source of the traveling knock. And how about timing chain slop? Another source of moving noise.

john8662
11-12-2004, 20:10
Update!!!

Compression results

#1 390
#2 390
#3 380
#4 380
#5 350
#6 350
#7 370
#8 370

To me its really odd that the results came out like this, the same from one side to the other? I was surprised #8 was as good as 370! This test was done with 6 puffs, the numbers above represent the holding pressure on the compression gauge.

I did find something wrong though, my intake seems to be seeping engine oil from the upper intake. I also pulled the rubber boot going to the turbo, it had more oil than I have ever seen in there. I don't know if thats just increased blow-by or if I have lost the turbo oil seal? Would a bad turbo make noises like I am hearing, and will there be oil before the compressor on the intake side of the turbo?

tom mac,

Not sure on the timing chain slop, its got 111k now. This thing starts too well, and runs pretty sweet (slight miss lately though).

[ 11-12-2004, 09:41 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

charliepeterson
11-16-2004, 19:52
The excess oil at the turbo can come from the CDR valve. The diaphragm inside is supposed to seal tight when the engine comes off idle.
If the turbo compressor wheel was sloppy then it would grenade itself in no time.
New injectors make much different sounds than tired ones.
Try taking off the serpentine belt and running the truck for a short time and see if the sound goes away.

78Chev
11-16-2004, 20:18
I've taken the liberty of asking Dr. Lee to listen to your engine sounds, john8662. Your recordings could have been of my engine. Hopefully Lee with have some insight.
Randy

jtex
11-16-2004, 22:22
Just 2 cents,
my truck made that noise for about 150k, with three different IP's. Finally went away when I replaced the timing chain with a gear set

crash9
11-17-2004, 06:32
I think you can pretty much know it

BuffaloGuy
11-17-2004, 07:33
Well my little ticking sound got worse fast. The truck is now sitting at the dealer.

Compression test was 400 plus on all 8. No blowby. It seems that the sound is coming form # 1 and # 3. They will be pulling th einjectors and getting them tested today. I'll keep you posted.

My sound is just like yours, only worse.

When listening with a stethescope the block, timimg chain cover, heads and IP pump sound normal. The two injector lines feeding the injectors mentioend above sound and even feel different.

It seems we are in the same boat.

john8662
11-17-2004, 08:05
Thanks for taking the time to listen and read!

Right now the suggestions on the table are pulling the belt to see if what i am hearing is accessory related and pulling injectors for testing.

I'd figure with new injectors that I wouldn't have problems, thats why I went the "new" route, new bosch injectors in yellow bosch boxes.

But, if I can't resolve it, then I will pull them and take them to a local diesel shop and watch them being tested. If there is a bad one what do I need to look for, bad pop pressure, bad chatter?

Right now I have the burb sitting in my shop torn apart, still have the compression tester dangling from #6 glow plug hole. I'll get some time Friday to put things back together for further testing, like re-install the downpipe (had to lower to get #6 GP out) and put the air cleaner, water recovery tank, etc back together.

I will also replace the CDR valve, but I want to pull the upper intake manifold again to check for oil in the compressor section of the turbo.

Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming.

cruzer
11-17-2004, 08:45
John, What's intresting w/your comp results is that the psi's seem to be related to the crank journals. You have 350 psi on 5 & 6 which ride on the same crank journal. All your other #'s are like that too. I don't think it means anything, It's just weird & intresting. Ken

crash9
11-17-2004, 10:05
I'd figure with new injectors that I wouldn't have problems, thats why I went the "new" route, new bosch injectors in yellow bosch boxes.
90% chance to actually be rebuilt by Bosch - India

john8662
11-17-2004, 11:09
crash,

I am not sure that I believe that the injectors are rebuilt by bosch and sold as new. I don't really want to remove them, if you owned a 6.5, you'd understand, its no easy task, especilly around the turbo. I'll try everything else, then i'll pull them and have them pop tested.

crash9
11-17-2004, 11:50
I

john8662
11-17-2004, 12:22
crash,

I already cracked all the injector lines one by one to narrow down a preticular cylinder. I spoke with local diesel pump builder about this problem, even gave him a listen to the burb. He doesn't think fuel, but says its hard to troubleshoot because its not a clack every revolution, just most. I also told him that I had cracked each line and couldn't narrow it down, he just looked at me an snickered. He said "lemme guess, the sound lessened with each line, but you didn't narrow it down to which one?", I said yes. He then showed me a pump torn down and explained to me that every rotary stanadyne pump has a bypass in the pump in case an injector jams closed. So you realy can't tell which cylinder it realy is, because when you loosen a line, the pressure will drop on al 8 cylinders, making it difficult to troubleshoot. The ford 6.9 and early 7.3 engines used a stanadyne pump similar to the 6.2's and 6.5's and he said that he had experienced problems with injectors in those engines. Cracking the lines didn't reveal a completly clogged injector, just had to pull them all and pop test them.

I wonder if the Merc injectors are the ones having problems, heck they are higher priced injectors in the first place. 6.5TD engines and components are still being produced, so I think what I bought actually was new, famous last words. I do appreciate the input though!

BuffaloGuy
11-18-2004, 08:56
News Flash. We tested all four injectors on the easy (drivers side). 3 were bad. I've got 8 new ones coming from JK and we'll see how it sounds on Friday PM when they get installed.

crash9
11-18-2004, 09:39
Well you

turbovair
11-21-2004, 09:49
I thought I was listening to my own engine. Only difference is mine is a bit noisier on the passenger side than on the drivers side(inverse of recording). My truck has 126,000 with original injectors and no major engine work other than a timing chain. Runs good, uses a quart of oil about every 2000-3000 miles.

sk8rdi16
11-21-2004, 17:17
I am having a similar problem with my 95 Suburban. The clacking 'sounds' the same as the recording, only I took the serpentine belt off and it goes away. It usually comes on then I turn the AC fan on. (just fan no AC, although it happens with compressor engaged also). Good it be the IP? or one of the accessories?

Thanks

Billman
11-22-2004, 04:58
Buffalo Guy

Out of curiousity, with 145k on your pump, which injector are you going with?

BuffaloGuy
11-22-2004, 08:37
I went with stock injectors. They are now in but the sound is still there.

The dealer says that I must have got it hot and they think that a piston has shrunk and is slopping around in the cylinder!? There is zero blow by. They say that can happen as the rings will still seal even though the piston is moving around.

I DID NOT get it hot. Other than the stock h20 gauge I have a EGT and an Intake temp gauge and all three were within range on the whole trip.

I am having a hard time believing this.

When you listen (with a screwdiver to the ear) to the head or the block it's generally quiet. When you listen to the exhaust manifold at #1 and mostly #3 you can hear the noise. The other spots on the manifold are normal.

I'm guessing that I have a bad valve or two. I am going to do a little more diagnostics and make a few phone calls. Any ideas anyone???

This is going to be expensive and I can't make any missteps.

[ 11-22-2004, 07:53 AM: Message edited by: The Buffalo Guy ]

Billman
11-22-2004, 08:54
Got it Hot and Shrunk a piston??

Maybe it's just me, but that sounds ridiculous...

EscaladeDiesel
11-22-2004, 09:37
Since my Suburban has been up and running I have the same noises as yours John. My IP & Injectors are all original. Haven't realy investigated it, but did just have the harmonic balancer & pulley replaced & no real difference in noise or vibration, guess the old ones were not that worn to begin with. Also, I do have the same sort of "extra clatter" when I go over 60 mph, and when I first accelerate, do you?

john8662
11-22-2004, 11:02
I do have quite a lot of "clatter" but thats normal sounds, mainly from the fresh injectors, its really combusing well, so it makes more knocky sounds. The "clacking" I am hearing is more of the not-so-normal sounds, its an uneven metallic sound, you'll have to listen to the whole audio clip to understand what you're listening for. At first you'll probably think, noisy 6.5, then you'll hear a "clink" then listen for more of those.. Its hard to explain, there is a local diesel mechanic in my area, he listened to it, doesn't think its a fuel thing, but says its too intermittant to troubleshoot now. I don't like waiting for things to break, as most will say, "it'll let you know what it was eventually" :mad:

I have the old injectors, and am going to be taking them to the diesel shop and have them tested, if I have one that was really bad, then that could explain my clacking sound before I changed injectors. I am starting to think maybe I do have a bad batch with the new injectors, making it do it all of the time now. Considering taking them all out, and taking them to be tested too.

The Buffalo Guy,

"The dealer says that I must have got it hot and they think that a piston has shrunk and is slopping around in the cylinder!? There is zero blow by. They say that can happen as the rings will still seal even though the piston is moving around."

What cylinders to they say this is occuring on? Sounds like a stretch if they're talking about cylinders on the drivers side.

BuffaloGuy
11-22-2004, 11:02
billman,
I agree. They said that it could have gooten hot and then bulge or maybe get a little concave so that the diameter actually shrinks.

I don;t knwo enough about this kinda stuff but it sounds like a stretch to me.
Ken

tom.mcinerney
11-23-2004, 19:25
Devildog, you say:
>>After I replaced my pump I've never had it back

Did you install the phaser gearset at same time as new FIP installation?

How many folks who feel they have the noise John complains of, which "down the road it runs fine, and also once you rev it up past 650-700RPM."
The combination of timing chain slap and the FIP innards may be prime source problem.

JTEX, Thanks for your comment...
>>my truck made that noise for about 150k, with three different IP's. Finally went away when I replaced the timing chain with a gear set

Crash9 may be onto some relevant considerations, too.
>>When I put mine in the Merc I got a very similar knock until I bled one line repeatedly

john8662
11-23-2004, 20:32
Back from my local diesel shop, had the old injectors tested, was looking for one lower than the others. Nope, they are all consitantly worn out. The comment of the builder was "you did good changing these, they were getting tired" They all popped pretty close to one another, about 1800psi, with no chatter. Evidently when popping you want a chatter while dispensing the fuel, a 6.2 injector was demonstrated, lower pop pressure, but definitly a good chatter.

Back to the drawing board...

I am considering other options..

-New injection pump (have to foot this one by myself, as dealer wouldn't replace the pump, thought it was in spec) approx 80k on current pump.

-Pulling current injectors out, having them tested, I don't think there is anything wrong with them. Now that they have broken in, the engine starts better than ever, also due to the quickheats, wow!!!

-Timing gear set, as per a recomendation, the Phaser setup is near 500 shipped, I don't know if this is worth it, especially if this is truely not the problem, to later install a new engine.

john8662
11-26-2004, 11:18
For those following this post, pulling the serpentine belt and running the engine revealed it wasn't an accessory problem. Its still there and just as pronounced.

I'll be pulling the new injectors out this weekend and taking them in to be tested monday. I also want to pull the intake to remove the injection lines from the Injection pump, so I can pull the valve covers. I want to see if I have a rocker, push rod, or collapsed lifter problem.

How can I identify a lifter problem visually, anyone know? I will look for any lower (collapsed ones).

[ 11-26-2004, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: john8662 ]

tom.mcinerney
11-26-2004, 18:20
I would think that good starting and decent compression would rule out bad lifter... but, 'dunno'.

john8662
11-29-2004, 22:41
News...

Well as I had mentioned I wanted to tear the ol 6.5 down a little and get a better look. I took off the intake, and associated parts, took off injection lines turbo covers, etc, all to gain me access to the valve covers. I finally removed the valve covers, to my eye, everything looks to be in place, no worries about broken retainer clips on the rockers, nothing abnormal, no bent pushrods either. I don't really know what to look for on the lifters, although they all seemed even no pushrods loose. The noise is becoming louder, so I shut it down and did this tear down.

I found something odd though, the block is a 929 block, I always thought I had a 599. Is this normal for a 95 factory engine or is this a goodwrench engine? No goodwrench sticker, has the factory sticker on the valve cover for a 1995.

I took out the injectors, I am going off to the diesel shop (Diesel Fuel Systems) tomorrow to have them tested, I don't think anything out of the ordinary will show up.

I did find something else disturbing though, makes me wanna just pull the engine and rebuild it. I have been using ALOT more oil than usual, I usually use 1/2 qt in 3k, I have put in 1 1/2 quarts in the last two weeks. When pulling the intake its got some black gunk (looks like fabric fibers) stuck to the oil in the intake, this is also present just before the turbo, again! A big puddle of oil before the turbo, less than 100 miles ago I had it apart and cleaned it off. I wonder if my air filter is coming apart? Before I do anything rash I am going to get an oil sample done, the first.

I'll post back the results on the injectors tomorrow...

john8662
11-30-2004, 19:55
Well its not the injectors, they all popped spec.

Sorry for the lemon logo, but thats how I feel about the 6.5. This engine has been nothing but trouble. I guess the oil pump saga "lower oil pressure than normal, things I can check" post ended up fixing a problem, but being a band-aid. I figured something else would have to go wrong.

I am going to set this project to the side, till I figure some way to pay for an engine rebuild or new engine. RIP 111K, your mileage may vary.

The sad thing I guess, (B.S. time...) is that i bought this 6.5 thinking that it was in great shape and well taken care of. Even worse is that I figured that what everyone said about the 6.5 being unreliable and a very unworthy engine was wrong. I'll have to admit when I am wrong, I was wrong thinking the 6.5 was a good engine, heck its just like a 6.2, but so different it seems...
I'm just upset, now I know what EscaladeDiesel went through with his 98 suburban 6.5.

:confused:

BUZZ
12-01-2004, 03:17
[ 12-01-2004, 02:27 AM: Message edited by: BUZZ ]

G. Gearloose
12-01-2004, 04:07
Your evidence is starting to suggest mousies setup home in the airbox of this truck at one time, and the engine might have injested fabric hoodliner, chewed up filter, perhaps a mouse or two. Either damage occured right away or was undetected for a spell and ran without filtration.
929 block, wazzat?

charliepeterson
12-01-2004, 19:06
It sounds like you checked everything you could and found nothing wrong? The plans are to pull the engine? Hell I would drive it then until it blew its guts all over the side of the road. I doubt this will happen any time soon though.

"Drive it like you stole it" you'll have no issues.

john8662
12-01-2004, 22:10
Charlie,

If you haven't noticed from my previous posts, I am obsessive about the engines I run. This noise really bothers me to the point I don't enjoy driving the vehicle at all. In reality, it probably won't spill its guts that soon, but I can't stand being stranded when it does. I like to have at least 2 reliable running vehicles at all times, now i am down to 1. I just want things right, I'm just really odd I guess.

I like the truck, but feel cheated with the engine. It's really too much vehicle for one person anyways. Thinking of putting it back together, and selling it cheap with the noise known and disclosed to potential buyers, cut my losses and move on.

EscaladeDiesel
12-02-2004, 07:29
JOHN, I so know how you're feeling.

I had the same issues as you, down to the fact of asking myself why do I even need a Suburban, let alone three <grin>. People offered to purchase it cheap plenty of times (some from here.)

I was determined to get it back running, but I am still not enjoying it with the IP issue.

I DO understand your wanting it to run right and not have to constantly worry about if "Today" is the day is leaves you stranded.

eracers999
12-02-2004, 07:36
One thing i have noticed on the electronic 6.5's is that with the introduction of cooler air, you know seasonal changes, they make more noise. I've been following this post for a while and can say with certainty that with the seasonal changes in air and barometric pressures that my 6.5 makes some odd noises that have got my att.

I have also noticed that after i work the engine good and bring every thing up to temp real good that it sounds the way that it always has. So i figure this, with the introduction of cooler air, and cooler fuel temps the engine is just going to sound different. More plucky and spinky sounding with a injection noise that almost sounds like a rod noise. If you really listen close it will drive you nuts. What i figure my engine is telling me is (this is what i sound like, there is nothing wrong with me so close the hood and drive) This 6.5 in my truck has been tested pretty good by me. I really like the engine.
Kent

EWC
12-02-2004, 13:59
How about a flat spotted roller lifter or bearing in the roller gone ?