Getting my SM465 back into my 6.2L [Archive]

DeltaWolf

03-10-2019, 20:59

So as the title says, I am having a hell of a time getting the tranny back into my 82 K2500. I would love to take it to a mechanic, but I don't have the money for the tow or even the cost of them putting it back in, sealing it, fluids, transfer case an probably a new cross member to support the trans to transfer case adapter in place.

SO I am using hand tools, no lift and a floor trans jack a buddy got from HF, so not a great start.

Honestly if someone is in the Kansas City area, I would figure a way to pay for the time. but as of right now it is me myself and I trying to get it back in. If anyone has anything that can help me I would love to see it. I need this truck back up, all I have is my wife's care and a motorcycle. wife would like her car back as well, lol. Thanks for reading.

More Power

03-11-2019, 08:09

I've replaced quite a few transmissions by myself without a lift... Though not a 465.

One way I found to make it easier is to build a crib to incrementally raise the transmission to the right height and angle. A hydraulic jack can be used to raise first one end then the other. I used blocks and lumber scraps to crib the trans into the position it needed to be.

You could use a motorcycle strap to secure the transmission to a rectangle of 3/4" plywood to use as a base for cribbing, which would make the setup more stable as you're raising it into position.

Once you get the transmission close to the right height, use another motorcycle strap to secure it to the vehicle so it cannot fall, as you wrestle it into its final position. Jim

Yukon6.2

03-11-2019, 09:33

Did you change the clutch?
I just did a Spicer 7 speed in my Topkick7500 by myself
I did have a tranny jack,but it was one for light trucks,the 7 speed pretty much maxed out the jack.
I made sure the clutch was reinstalled perfect,then i made sure one of the splines was exactly 12 O Clock,did the same with the trans.Plus i took a sharpie and drew a line straight back from a spline so i would know where the splines were once it was started into the clutch plate.
It went in nice and easy with no drama.
Take your time and make sure everything is right.Get the trans on a platform or jack and it will go in.

arveetek

03-11-2019, 10:05

More Power

03-11-2019, 11:01

My dad and I replaced one years ago with no jack. Had one guy inside the truck with the transmission tunnel removed holding the transmission up with a strap, and another guy underneath wiggling the transmission into place. Not ideal, but it worked.

Casey

When I was a high schooler, I changed an automatic in my 1994 Impala in our gravel driveway... in March (wet/cold), by myself. In those days, I'd not unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate… Didn't know any better. Luckily I didn't ruin any input shaft seals.

arveetek

03-11-2019, 11:58

In those days, I'd not unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate… Didn't know any better. Luckily I didn't ruin any input shaft seals.

On one of my first automatic transmission swaps, I failed to make sure the converter was pushed all the way back into the pump before tightening the mounting bolts holding the transmission to the rear of the engine. Ending up damaging the pump and having to pull the transmission again to get it repaired (again).

Some lessons are learned the hard way.

Casey

DeltaWolf

03-11-2019, 14:50

arveetek

03-11-2019, 19:17

Thank you for the reply's. I am gonna assume I didn't have it lined up right, the clutch never came off, and I am not sure if the bell housing should be on the tranny or motor to back it easier. I will attempt to move the jack to the side and try to use another jack to raise the ass end of the tranny and muscle it in that way. I wish I have the muscle mass to just lift it into place my self but I do not. I may purchase a clutch spine alignment tool to see where the grooves are.

I've only done a couple of these models, but both times the bellhousing stayed on the motor. As long as the clutch pedal was not depressed at any time the tranny was removed, it should go right back in. Leave the tranny in gear, and use the output yoke to turn the input shaft back and forth as you move the tranny towards the engine to help engage it into the splines on the clutch.

Casey

DeltaWolf

03-13-2019, 07:40

unfortunately for me the Spine one the trans has been moved due to work, I think the motor was started as it had a little bit of minor work done to it as well. so I think i will pick up a the spine tool that comes in the clutch pack and go from there to line it up. I thing most of my problem is the alignment of the transmission. I was thinking of putting the bell housing on the transmission as it seems easier to line up and easier to attach the housing to the transmission while I have the transmission out. Now after I get the trans back in, I will have to looking into the adapter for the trans to transfer case, as the one that was on the truck broke while taking out the transmission. If anyone has a photo of the original cross member that would be helpful, because when I look up new ones it looks different than the one I have but the ones I see are all after market.

Yukon6.2

03-13-2019, 09:28

Hi
It doesn't really mater that the splines moved on the transmission.
So long as the clutch pedal hasn't been stepped on your clutch will still be aliened

If you leave the tranny in gear you can turn the front splines while installing it by turning the back shaft.
I probably have the adapter for your tranny/transfer case.Take a picture of yours.

Mine would take a while to get to you,plus cost a bit to ship.

JohnC

03-13-2019, 10:54

If I never haver to do that again, it'll be too soon! The critical thing (assuming you didn't step on the clutch pedal) is the input shaft of the trans has to be at the same angle from horizontal as the crankshaft of the engine. One thing you cannot do is get the trans part way into the clutch hub then let the weight of the tail of the trans hang on it.

DeltaWolf

03-13-2019, 14:37

will do, I bought one but apparently but the part that connects the adapter to the cross member isn't as tall as the one that came off of it, even though I was told it was for a K2500.

DeltaWolf

03-27-2019, 14:48

Sorry it's taking so long on the photos, I am trying to figure out how to get them on here

DeltaWolf

04-03-2019, 19:46

Sorry this took so long. still having a bitch of time, gave up for a couple of weeks but now I really do need to get it back in.

https://flic.kr/p/24NLn2R
https://flic.kr/p/2fqjKDi
https://flic.kr/p/24NLn4e

hopefully this works.

sctrailrider

04-04-2019, 15:51

Couple of things...

Has anyone pushed the clutch in with the tranny out?

It would be much easier with the bell attached to the tranny and you could make sure the clutch splines are lined up with the pilot bearing.

Next, a couple pieces of threaded rod will help line everything up and give some wiggle room pulling things together. it's a job without the better tools and work area but it can be done, like others have said, everything will need to be straight to each other, you may need to jack the rear of the motor up some if it's hanging down, maybe remove the tranny cross member if you haven't..

DeltaWolf

04-04-2019, 18:45

I am unsure if anyone has pushed the clutch in. guess I will need to get an alignment tool to test that. the N208 transfercase and crossmember has been pulled, but the adapter is different than what was in there and isn't the same size. not sure if it was orginal or taken off of another vehicle and I can not find a photo of a stock 82 K2500 to compare it to.

DeltaWolf

04-12-2019, 22:57

So I got the transmission back in and as I was afraid the adapter for the NP208 and sm465 I bought was the wrong one. Can anyone please tell me which is the right one. I would love a part number or a link to one for sale. the one I have is the right attachments just the part that you sit on the cross member is to short.

Edit one: apparently the one I have is for a late 80's truck.

Yukon6.2

04-13-2019, 08:55

DeltaWolf

04-13-2019, 11:52

https://flic.kr/p/24UKfuD

https://flic.kr/p/24NLn2R

That is the best I can do as I have not photos of them side by side, but it looks like a spacer would work, I just do not know how big

DeltaWolf

04-13-2019, 18:08

OK I have it in place and need about a 4 inch spacer, I will work on this later with a 4x4 timber as a temp spacer.

Yukon6.2

04-14-2019, 09:50

Hi Delta
As a GM guy i havn't seen a adapter like your new one.
I would use some pipe cut to lenght and long bolts for a temp solution
You could maybe use a piece of box tubing as well if it comes in the right size.
Are your plans to replace it?
And what was the reason for removing the tranny in the first place?
Thomas

sctrailrider

04-14-2019, 10:02

It looks like the case is clocked down a lot from the pics?

DeltaWolf

04-15-2019, 13:11

I haven't found out what exactly it goes to yet other than it looks like the 86-89 type. I was just thinking about using square pipe and and some nuts, but I do not have a welder. So I will use washers and a long blot if it lines up. I could see if I can find a 3 in rectangle or square tube and a 1/4" flat stock that would do it.

If it works I really do not have a plan to replace if as I found new aluminum ones that are like 400 bucks.

I remove the transmission as I bought the truck used, and had leaks everywhere, and I didn't get much out when I drained it. So I wanted to check out the transfer case and transmission. so out they came.

That is how it I got it and it seems to be the only way to get the drive shaft to the front without hitting the transmission mount.

If it isn;t right then I can not find any information or photos of the correct way as everyone pretty much has aftermarket parts and different transmissions and transfer cases.

DeltaWolf

04-24-2019, 22:40

Ok, So I got it in and made a 6 inch space out of steel tube, the clutch wouldn't engage, so I look at the adjuster and it looks pretty worn, so I adjusted it past the nut to see if that was it, heard a load thud and the ball on the bell housing snap some threads, so now it will not go back in.

Time to find a new bell housing, so if the clutch isn't engaging but I can watch the fork move, I assume it is the adjuster rod. so now I need to pick that up as well, plus fluids for the transmission and transfer case. still looking at 200 plus to get these done, I just hope the clutch works when I get it back together. just wish payday would get here faster.

anyway, if you guys have any other ideas to try after I get the new parts let me know. Also, thanks to everyone fore helping. I knew better than to tackle this project.

DeltaWolf

05-21-2019, 07:35

It looks like the case is clocked down a lot from the pics?

Do you have a stock photo for the 82 K2500. At this point I an not even sure this is the right crossmember. This was the only spot I could get the shaft not to rub and still shift the transfer case.

sctrailrider

05-21-2019, 17:25

No I don't.... I would think their would be a pic on the web somewhere...

DeltaWolf

05-30-2019, 22:06

All of the ones I see all look different from one another, I need to get my hand on a GMC printed shop book. I could do a lot with that. LMC trucks doesn't have one, but classic parts of America have a tubular "universal" cross-member. which is good as both are down the road from me.

Edit, I have one now, downloaded it. One more stupid question as I am not a mechanic nor do I play one on TV. Putting the top cover on the transmission, what is the easiest way to do it? I heard or read somewhere that if you put it in Half in R it will slide in. but I would like a reference on how the gears in side should be lined up as well. but I can not really find a video or anything one it.

joed

05-31-2019, 07:41

From what I remember, the other gears are in the neutral position, and reverse is engaged halfway. It's definitely a little tricky, make sure the other shifter forks will fall into the slots on the gear sliders as you lower it. Hope that helps. Joe.

DeltaWolf

05-31-2019, 17:09

Joe, that's what I had read, just didn't know how true it was, Once I get the clutch fixed I will try it to see if it is in correctly, the book was no help.

DeltaWolf

07-22-2019, 15:02

Ok, got it all back in and started, she moves...some what, it seems after giving he some pedal it is almost like the transmission lacks drive power, the motor revs but doesn't have any power. Any Ideas on where to start? I really prefer not to take anything back out unless i know 100% what the issue is.

Could low fuild level in the transfer case or transmission do this?

DmaxMaverick

07-22-2019, 16:40

Does it roll/coast easy? Can you manually spin the drive shaft(s) while in neutral (tranny and xfer)? Does the engine drag in neutral, clutch out? If none of the above.....

Start with the basics:

Fuel filter(s).
Fuel quality (including actual content).
Fuel level in the tank (really).
Air intrusion.
Fuel lift pump.
IP timing (HPCA not working, or IP just too retarded).

If 4x4 is engaged, and the gears are wrong (front - rear mismatch, including tire size), it will bind the drivetrain.

DmaxMaverick

07-22-2019, 16:43

Could low fuild level in the transfer case or transmission do this?

No. Unless it/they are already toast, that is.

DeltaWolf

07-22-2019, 18:56

OK, So I drove it about 20 feet, it felt like something was binding. so I jacked the ass up and apparently I missed a couple or three bolts on the transfer case to the coupler. the fuel is oldish sitting in the truck for about a year or so. I think whatever it is, is between the transmission and transfer case. I am going to guess the transfer case is where the problem lies. the transmission I didn't seal good enough so I will have to redo that, and fill it back up. fun. I will get that done and see how it goes.

DeltaWolf

08-14-2019, 10:52

Ok, so fixed the leaks, filled the fulids, pulled out of the driveway to test everything, push the clutch in, *pop* the Bellcrank (Z-Bar) popped off the Bell housing pivot ball. I did replace the parts that were in there other thank the grease, was planning on doing that after taking it down the street 1/8 mile turning around. The parts list I used was the one from Classicparts.com (Classic parts of American) as they are right down the road.

I just do not see how the grease is suppose to be held in by the pivot ball on the bell housing side. also there is some play side to side as I assume that is for frame/engine/transmission flex.

Anyone else experience the z bar popping out of place when the clutch is pressed in?

Yukon6.2

08-15-2019, 08:41

Hi
I have a truck were that happened,the reason on mine was the frame was bent.
I added a spacer to move the ball mounted to the frame closer to the transmission.Solved it for that truck.

DeltaWolf

08-15-2019, 09:27

I was thinking I would have to do the same, How did you get your ball stud in, was one side threaded and the other a stud as well?

Yukon6.2

08-16-2019, 09:08

Mine was a 76 gas truck and it had the ball on the frame mounted to a bracket on the frame.
The ball had a stud end so it was easy enough to add washers to move the ball closer to the trans.

DeltaWolf

08-16-2019, 10:31

Hi
Can you post pictures of the two side by side?
Have you thought about using a spacer to get the proper height?
Sucks when stuff isn't right.
i had a nightmare tranny change in my Topkick,it really sucked and took a bunch of time because the tranny came from a shop 1600 miles away,and the owner has a habit of forgetting about you unless you were in his face hassling him.

So the Transfer case to tranny adapter I have I think cam from a 4x4 1500, I saw a photos of a 465 that came from a 1500 and it is the same one as mine, I got doopped on ebay again lol, but it is my fault, I will have to find another proper one later.