View Full Version : wont start after de-farm truck
my truck was mostly used on a farm, the previous owner did run biodiesel for a bit in the stock tank, then had issues with it not running right so they decided to plumb the bed-mounted aux tank to engine running dyed. I got the truck, disconnected aux tank, pulled the stock tank, emptied the varnish/sludge, put 80 oz of Power Service Clear-Diesel fuel and tank cleaner in overnight, swished it around, dumped and re-installed with 10gal fresh diesel also a new pickup without sock. Added Leroy Diesel preLP filter kit and relay harness. cranked up and ran just fine for a bit, idled high and shut off. I am waiting on a new preLP filter to arrive, maybe I sucked up something and clogged the filter? Now will not start, anything I should check? Thank you in advance!
Easy enough to check if fuel is getting to the IP...
Update your profile so we know what year you're talking about...
Sorry about that, thought I did that when I registered. It’s a 93 6.5. Also noticed that the glow plug light doesn’t come on any longer. I used a volt meter and had 12v in right lug but nothing on left lug. Bad relay or blow fuse, bad glow plug(s)?
So I replaced the glow plug controller and now my dash light comes on however it still won’t start; it’ll crank but wont fully start. It acts like it wants to start and begins to maybe fire on a few cylinders. Any ideas as to what to check next?
DmaxMaverick
09-04-2020, 13:13
Check each glow plug for continuity to ground, or just replace them if you don't know how old they are or if they are working. You can also use the block heater to help get a cold engine started, even if only for diagnostic purpose.
Glow plugs are brand new and check out. Got to get a replacement cord for the block heater, rats chewed the plug end off...
DmaxMaverick
09-04-2020, 13:54
If the new plugs are AC60G, they may need to glow a little longer than previous plugs (they don't get as hot, as fast). Try a double-tap glow cycle: Allow a complete cycle from lamp on to off, then key off and immediately back on for a second cycle before trying to start. If this seems to improve the situation, look into extending the glow cycle time, or install a manual glow plug switch (simply, a momentary switch that energizes the GP solenoid).
Rats! They don't usually just chew on one thing and leave the rest alone. Good luck with that!
Yep, new ac60g. I’ll try to double-tap them. Yep, I’ve already replaced a few wires that the rats chewed up. It all seemed to be by the grill area, headlights and such. Didn’t see any wires further back that needed replacing. It’s odd, it ran fine one day and nothing the next after just adding the lift pump relay. I even tried disconnecting it to rule it out and still nothing
After you cleared the tank, lines and such (I assume a fresh filter) you likely air locked the injection system.
Yank out the glow plugs and engage the starter until you get fuel blowing out the glow plug holes.
Replace the plugs, glow and go for a start.
Make sure the lift pump is operating...
nothing the next after just adding the lift pump relay.
Have you confirmed the lift pump is running?
Yes, the lift pump is running, I can hear it and feel it pulsing when I put my hand on the prefilter
Pull the hose loose at the IP and run the lift pump only to purge any air from the system.
Hook the line back up an the try for a start.
It takes very little air in the system, especially after opening things up for repairs to get it loused up.
Pull out some of the LH glow plugs and spin the engine.
If fuel blows out then the beast should start.
Be sure there is power to the glow plugs during the glow cycle.
Which line on the ip should I pull? There’s one front and driver and one front and passenger and it’s a hose, is that what you mean? Also, does anyone have a picture of how the t-handle bleed should be plumbed? Mine just has one line coming off and going straight down the drivers side but doesn’t appear to be hooked to anything in order to bleed it.
The fuel feed line to the injection pump.
The small ones on each side of the engine at to return excess fuel back to the tank.
The bleed line at the front of the engine by the coolant top hose outlet is a water drain.
If you open the air bleed on the filter and purge any air out you should be good.
A messy job doing it that way.....
I don’t have a stock fuel filter on top of the engine by the intake. It was replaced by a spin on filter so no bleed screw there
DmaxMaverick
09-05-2020, 20:47
Then the water drain at the thermostat housing is not connected to anything. In OEM trim, a hose connected the valve to the bottom of the FM100 (Fuel Manager --filter).
Getting your filter bled is an important part of priming the system. As long as it contains air, it will push it to the IP. Until all the air is out, you're gonna have issues. If your aftermarket filter housing doesn't have an air bleeder, you'll be going through this at every filter change, even if you fill the filter with fuel before installing. Do yourself a favor and install a T/valve at the filter outlet.
finally got it! i pulled the lines off the filter and poured fuel down in them, tried starting, nothing... pulled glow plugs out, cranked, still nothing, loosened 2 of the nuts on the injector lines and cranked, saw fuel coming out, tightened back up and cranked a few times, let starter rest, finally after 3 cycles it started right up. thank you again guys!
Air in the system....even when everything else is perfect will raise hell with getting them started.
As Maverick said...Add A bleeder T at a high point down stream from the filter.
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