This LBZ a good deal or not?

[2INSANE]

Found a 2007 LBZ GMC Sierra 4x4 crewcab with 165,000. It was listed at $23,000 a month ago and the price went down to $18,900. I started the Dickering at $16,500 and we ended up at $18,000 as-is.

I test drove it. It was -4 degrees out and it fired right up after doing 2 glow cycles not plugged in. No Blow-by. Drove great! The original sales paper said it has a power package with 360 HP.

Has some dents on the bed rail, rusty front bumper, cracked windshield, 1/2 tread tires. During the test drive I tried to roll the frozen window down and saw all the lights on the gauge cluster turn on for a few seconds. Like there was a power surge.

What yal think? Good deal? Or bad?

https://bozeman.craigslist.org/cto/d/livingston-2007-chevrolet-2500hd-crew/7428559754.html

[DmaxMaverick]

No rust-through. No leaks. No significant repairs needed. No SES lamp. Starts cold. Smooth warm idle. WOT run to 65 MPH doesn't smoke or set SES lamp. Shifts smooth. Oil looks good. ATF looks/smells good. Coolant is up and looks good. No shimmies, shakes, or rattles. Steering wheel points straight. ALL 4x4 works. Locking rear diff works. No rodent damage/evidence. Radio and ALL key fobs functions work (possible security and/or electronic issues if they don't). HVAC works. A/C works (at least cycle with recirc or defog). Any of the above takes away from that value. I'd buy it (especially in this market). What remains is either normal maintenance or minor repair (brakes, bearings, accessories, etc.). Even an injector replacement wouldn't put it out of the park, if it comes to that later.Talk to Kennedy about the recommended upgrades for that LBZ to help it live long and prosper.

[spongebob]

Mine has 420,000 miles on it,only replaced the turbo at 290,000.

[More Power]

After doing two head gasket projects last summer, one of the first things I'd look at after a decent test drive is to feel how hard the upper radiator hose is - hard is bad.

[2INSANE]

I checked everything yal listed. Went on 2 test drives. Over all it seems like a good deal for the price. Drives amazing! Shifts good, 4x4 is smooth, upper radiator hose is not hard, has Oem power package 360hp. I’m gonna buy it!

List of issues:
1. Power steering box leaks
2. Rear main seal leaks a little
3. Front bumper has rust
4. Gauge cluster glitches a little. The whole cluster lights up, including the warning lights and then shuts off. Common problem? What is remedy?
5. The bed rails have some 3” dents in it like someone accidentally dropped a gooseneck trailer on it.


Are there any must have upgrades?

[DmaxMaverick]

Leaky steering box: tighten the top plate, or replace/reseal the pitman arm, replace the box. Could be leaky PS line crimps (likely, instead or in addition to, and common).

IPC glitch: could be nothing (repair the IPC), could be a failed BCM ($$), could be harness damage.

Rear main leak: deal breaker

[2INSANE]

Leaky steering box: tighten the top plate, or replace/reseal the pitman arm, replace the box. Could be leaky PS line crimps (likely, instead or in addition to, and common).

IPC glitch: could be nothing (repair the IPC), could be a failed BCM ($$), could be harness damage.

Rear main leak: deal breaker

Mr Dmax, I’m new to the Dmax world. What does IPC mean and even with a small rear main leak you wouldn’t buy it? That hard to fix?

[DmaxMaverick]

IPC = Instrument Panel Cluster. Standard overhaul is $100-200, depending on what's wrong. If the entire IPC is flakey, it's either very simple (connector, harness, or ign. sw.), or way less than simple. BCM replacement is costly, and requires a trip to the dealer for programming, new or used.

Rear main seal repair requires R/R of the tranny/xfer, and requires a seal removal tool. The seal and associated consumables aren't necessarily costly, but dealership labor is well north of a grand, at last check (8-10 book hours, IIRC). You don't have to pay the dealership if you DIY, but you'll have at least that (down) time invested. What next, if you find the crank damaged?

The steering box may just be a loose top cover (happens a lot), or a hose, but maybe not. Once they leak out the bottom or the input shaft, it's time to replace.

"Deal breaker" was an exaggeration, but you should factor them into the purchase price. It isn't just a little.

The rusty bumper and bed rail dents are aesthetics, but take away from the value. A Ranch Hand (or your favorite moose-catcher) and utility or flatbed would fix that.

It's still not a bad deal, if you take all that into consideration.