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View Full Version : OPS replacement; have to remove intake?



izak
09-23-2004, 19:02
What a hassle for such a small part! I can almost get at it by removing the fuel filter bracket and nudging it out of the way. I dont want to tear the whole top end off but I cant get the socket over it. Anybody got a solution?

CareyWeber
09-23-2004, 19:07
Originally posted by izak:
What a hassle for such a small part! I can almost get at it by removing the fuel filter bracket and nudging it out of the way. I dont want to tear the whole top end off but I cant get the socket over it. Anybody got a solution? izak,

Some have used a facet wrench I got one, but I swapped my FSD out too, so I didn't need the wrench (I got the wrench at ACE Hardware for IIRC $10.00.

Carey

izak
09-23-2004, 19:54
Ok, I'll stop by Ace tomorrow then.

If this (+ lift pump) doesnt fix my stalling I'm going to take it in to the dealer and see about an injection pump under warranty. If that doesnt work, then I'll get a remote PMD kit. Do you have to take the intake off to get the harness off the old PMD?

CareyWeber
09-24-2004, 02:44
Originally posted by izak:
Ok, I'll stop by Ace tomorrow then.

If this (+ lift pump) doesnt fix my stalling I'm going to take it in to the dealer and see about an injection pump under warranty. If that doesnt work, then I'll get a remote PMD kit. Do you have to take the intake off to get the harness off the old PMD? izak,

I think the harrness will come off, but the resitor is another story. I pulled my intake when I did mine.

Carey

turbovair
09-26-2004, 13:51
I skeletonized a deep socket by cutting about 1/3 of it away. Leave to drive portion alone and leave the 12 point flanks alone. Cut away about 1/2 of the center section. Then, I could tip it slightly and get it on the switch without removing the intake. Choose a 3/8 drive socket.

gmenor
09-26-2004, 14:24
I got an OPS socket from NAPA. They sell two versions one a $6.00 and a $10.00. The $6.00 got the OPS off but did not fit the AC Delco OPS. So I got the $10.00 version which worked. I had to unscrew the fuel filter bracket and with a 3/8 drive rachet, extension and a swivel attached to the socket to removed/replace it. Move the fuel filter bracket aside and manuever the socket to the OPS. It took me about 15 minutes to replace it.

HANK1948
09-26-2004, 16:50
I bought the same OPS socket from NAPA also and I no luck it wouldnt go over the OPS the intake would get in the way so I had to grind the hell out of the socket, so after that it worked. pain in my ass! bad design

izak
09-26-2004, 19:48
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the faucet wrench, but didnt have enough leverage to twist the switch out. I was just about to "grind the hell" out of my new $8 OPS socket when I found a 1" crows foot wrench at Sears. I ground a 16th off of one of the jaws and that did the trick. I loosened the bracket to the fuel filter like you said and that got me enough room to really work in there (one knee on the radiator and one knee on the turbo snorkel).

I studied the lift pump for a while and finally got up the nerve to attack it. Big tip for the next guy here: you have to loosen the bracket holding the fuel lines just forward of the pump to give yourself some freedom to move the lines. Then its just a matter of being quick. Jerk the front line off and put your new pump on it, then jerk the old pump through its mounting bracket using your thumb to plug the feed line. Push the new pump through the bracket, screw on the feed line and you're done. I only lost about a cup of diesel and I didnt know what I was doing so you should have better luck than me.

Started up the truck and now the oil gauge sender shows about 45 at idle. The old sender had recently dropped down to 25 so maybe I'm on to something. At least I wont have to worry about my OPS and lift pump for a while.

Hye
09-27-2004, 02:51
Izak
Your old lift pump may be good. Try it in a can of diesel. After I cleaned mine out, it ran fine. They have a solinoid inside which compresses a spring. When the solinoid releases the spring, the spring pumps the fuel. The spring's strength limits the max fuel pressure... built in pressure regulator, but not too good at moving crud from tank to filter. I don't remember which wire is +. If it doesn't work, reverse the polarity. A diode inside the pump only lets current flow in one direction.

Marty Lau
09-29-2004, 06:23
Originally posted by HANK1948:
I bought the same OPS socket from NAPA also and I no luck it wouldnt go over the OPS the intake would get in the way so I had to grind the hell out of the socket, so after that it worked. pain in my ass! bad design I changed mine and there was ok clearance once I took the two bolts that hold the Fuel Filter bracket in place and the plugins behind it. Oh yeah to save a minute or two hunting laying on top of the engine (put a blanket on top engine for "comfort") the OPS on my truck is to the rear of driver side head. The only thing that realy made it hard other than my engine was warm was the heavy wire loom that was pressed against the OPS. The loom made starting hard, once I pushed it out of the way (had to bend a metal braket) not too much problem. Tight and a pain it is, but the 1 1/16 socket from checker did the job. Oh yeah the FF braket remove and flex head rachet tips made life much easier faster, THANKS GUYS! :cool: :cool:
TDP helps out again!!
Different years must have a slightly different install mine was in a brass fitting turned into the head and that lifted the OPS far enough to not have clearance problems.