View Full Version : Quick Disconnect on Heater Inlet Hose
How do you get this &#@%* thing apart....? :confused:
Squeeze the plactic tabs together and pull out the line.
I tried the obvious, squeezing the tabs together, but it didn't work. It almost looks like the tabs need to be lifted to clear the rim on the heater inlet pipe. The GM service manual shows a special tool....
I don't know of any special tool.
The plastic tabs are SUPPOSED to stay in the fitting while you pull the line out.
I removed it about a year ago while replacing the water pump, but I stopped just short of using the sawzall !!! I managed to get it all back together without tearing everything up, but now it's beginning to leak. I purchased a new plastic insert, keeper, cage, or whatever it's called and an o-ring from NAPA. Just trying to get it apart without going through the previous hassel...... smile.gif
rjschoolcraft
06-30-2004, 22:15
I would replace the entire fitting, not just the keeper and o-ring. I went that route first and had a near catastrophy when the seal blew out. It seems there is a rubber insert in the fitting with the groove for the o-ring. The rubber insert cracked, let the o-ring slide back and out went the coolant. This happened last year while climbing out of Salt Lake City. Nearly lost the engine.
I replaced mine over 2 years ago with a GM hose barb that allows you to cut the line and put a standard heater hose there. I don't have the part number at my fingertips, but the dealer (Team Chevrolet of Scottsbluff NE) had sold so many of those useless quick connects that they started stocking the hose barb.
I spliced a standard heater hose to where I cut it off about 6-8" back and never had another leak.
The only difference in the GM barb and what you find on an auto parts shelf is an orifice inside it to ensure proper flow in the heater core. If you have it wide open, the flow in the core will not be correct. I believe the orifice was about 1/4"-5/16".
Replaced mine with a pipe thread hose barb (dishwasher hose fitting) from my local lumber yard 4 years ago. Not a problem ever since. Brian
CleviteKid
07-01-2004, 09:43
The GM barb is standard on our old 6.2L engines, so tell the parts man your 1984 diesel connector rusted out and you need another one . . . . .
Dr. Lee :cool:
panhead9
07-02-2004, 01:48
A Male X Flair adapter with 3" of copper tubing and a piece of rubber hose worked great for me for 3 years now. Those aluminum insert fittings start to degrade after a leak develops and erode making a seal impossible.
In my experience, those quick disconnect fittings are plain evil. Had to change the intake on a gasser suburban to fix one that had broken off in the manifold. Nothing short of a machine shop could remove it. I would NOT put another one back in there.
Marty Lau
07-02-2004, 08:47
hmmm, I just went down to the hardware store with a quick conect and found a brass hose barb that turned right in and a short chunk of heater hose.
Well, today I removed my thermostat crossover only to find that the inside tab on the passenger side flange was broken off. Upon closer examination, it looks like the other side has a crack in the same place. Anyone have this problem in the past? Any idea what causes this? I replaced the water pump about a year ago and torqued the crossover down to 31 lbs. ft. as specified in the GM Service manual. :confused: Anybody have a good source for a new one?
Originally posted by damork:
The only difference in the GM barb and what you find on an auto parts shelf is an orifice inside it to ensure proper flow in the heater core. If you have it wide open, the flow in the core will not be correct. I believe the orifice was about 1/4"-5/16". What exactly will happen without it?
I just screwed a standard pipe thread nipple in mile and clamped a piece of heater hose over it.
Marty Lau
07-05-2004, 09:42
Originally posted by MEdlin:
Well, today I removed my thermostat crossover only to find that the inside tab on the passenger side flange was broken off. Upon closer examination, it looks like the other side has a crack in the same place. Anyone have this problem in the past? Any idea what causes this? I replaced the water pump about a year ago and torqued the crossover down to 31 lbs. ft. as specified in the GM Service manual. :confused: Anybody have a good source for a new one? For GM parts try GM Parts Direct dot com or Pam Oil but they have warehouses mostly in the midwest and upper west.
whatnot,
I don't know the GM answer, but suspect it reduces flow to allow an even distribution of coolant in the heater core and possibly reduces any potential issues related to high velocity coolant passing through the core. I lean to the proper fill of the core more than anything and I'm sure many have done as you have without problems.
When I swapped out the quick connect I was able to get the GM unit so I did - I switched to the dual thermostat manifold on my truck and moved the fitting over and had no fit up issues, just a different length of heater hose.
I just bought the entire hose aluminum/rubber hose as well as a new threaded nut thing that goes into the cross over from the dealer. It was under $30 total for the pair. Mine came apart quite easily, but there was some corrosion on the threaded part which is why I chose to replace it. I am hoping it comes in today so I can finally get this truck on the road.
Marty Lau
07-08-2004, 08:32
Originally posted by ees:
I just bought the entire hose aluminum/rubber hose as well as a new threaded nut thing that goes into the cross over from the dealer. It was under $30 total for the pair. Mine came apart quite easily, but there was some corrosion on the threaded part which is why I chose to replace it. I am hoping it comes in today so I can finally get this truck on the road. I had the factory one but when I tried to get the old out she no come.... broke off in the manifold not even an easy out would get it out I tried heat and easy out still not come and more heat and then I had to replace manifold I was sure not going to put that corrosion prone fitting back in the new manifold.
I just replaced my quick disconnect with the GM barb (AC Delco# 15-30569, GM# 15963984). It's just referred to a a fitting. It screws right in and has the reduced diameter hole inside, approximately 1/4" - 5/16". I did have to trim about 2" off of the original heater hose/tube. smile.gif
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