'95 6.5l td won't start

[yeti]

My Dad called me tonight. He's got a '95 chevy k2500 with the 6.5l td/auto. It was trying to stall on him as he got close to home. He was able to get it home where it died and now won't start. :( I'll be going up to his place tomorrow. Anything I should keep an eye out for? :confused:

[Turbine Doc]

Use the search feature read everything you can on FSD/PMD that sounds likely , could also be lift pump/OPS read them also, bad lift/ops generally does not cause complete shutdown as the IP can pull it's own fuel provided the fuel filt isn't crudded up another thing to check into

[yeti]

Ok, after reading what I could find on the above, what is the fsd/pmd. What axactly does it do.

If you can tell I know little about the TD. :rolleyes:

[Turbine Doc]

Fuel solenoid driver/Pump mounted driver same equipment different names, black box mounted to the side of the IP powers the fuel solenoid if it fails completely you get a no start, if it fails intermittently you get stalls on the go maybe shutdown then restart after cooling off period.

If truck has less than 120K mi on it all is covered by special GM policy .

[yeti]

Originally posted by tbogemirep:
Fuel solenoid driver/Pump mounted driver same equipment different names, black box mounted to the side of the IP powers the fuel solenoid if it fails completely you get a no start, if it fails intermittently you get stalls on the go maybe shutdown then restart after cooling off period.

If truck has less than 120K mi on it all is covered by special GM policy . The truck started fine when I got there. Shut down after 5-10 minutes, then wouldn't start til it cooled off again.

The trucks got 107,000 miles.
thanks for the info.

[damork]

yeti,
The problem you describe IMHO points to either the FSD or pump. Pulling the codes should help, but in 5 pump replacements I have been through, the general trend I've found is codes 17,18,35 and 36 on a 94 or 95 model means the pump is toast. Just codes 35 and 36 you may be fine with a new FSD/PMD module. Of course, the module may not have stored codes. Disconnecting your batteries may help you reset the system long enough to drive a bit farther, but if you have big problems, not even that will help.

Lately there has been a lot of discussion regarding wiring, and I agree that the grounds attached to the rear of the passenger side head which share the mount of the automatic transmission filler tube need to be clean and tight. That is the one ground that the main electronic module and engine control system uses - if it is dirty it could lead to high current and heat.

I don't have the link to Jim's article on things to check, but other items to watch are the lift pump pressure capabilities, clean fuel, etc. The OPS (oil pressure switch) that powers your oil pressure gauge also serves to power your fuel lift pump and is marginal at best in the current handling department - it can and does fail. Many here have tied in a 12v relay to carry the load using the OPS output to trigger the relay. I added a relay 100,000 miles ago. Improving filtration is also a wise idea, and choosing a water trap before the lift pump works well and stops a lot of unseen junk from hurting your pump.