6.2 Wouldn't shut off, now it won't crank

[cwlehner]

I have an '83 K-30 with a 6.2 that would not shut off the other night. I pulled the key, wiggled it back and forth and even hit the starter once, but it just kept running. After about a minute it finally shut off, but now the thing won't crank. I can hear the starter relay kick on sometimes and the glowplugs light up every time I turn the key on. I just bought the truck and it is my first Diesel. Not really sure what is used to shut the engine off (solenoid in fuel line??) and not sure how it would be related to the engine not cranking. My first guess was the ignition switch, I pulled it out and checked the contacts, they seem fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated, my email is jzz1r9@aol.com

[slagona]

It does sound like it is the ignition contacts.

Several places to start:

1) I assume you checked the ignition switch contacts located down on the steering column under the dash - which is connected to the key ignition via a steel rod. If not, that is the switch to test. Also, if you have titl wheel, and the tilt is sloppy (as many old ones are), that can also contribute to the ignition contact problem. I would test all the positions of the ignition switch to be sure it is actually functioning correctly. Then make sure the rod from the key ignition is moving correctly.

2) There is one wire (pink) going to the top of the injection pump. That controls the fuel flow (on or off). It should have power (12 volts) when the key is on, none when the key is off. Test the wire for voltage with the key on and off - test the solenoid by jumping the positive terminal of one batter to it. You should hear it click when power is applied. It is likely that this wire was still powered with the key off - which is why the engine would not shut down.

3) as far as cranking goes, check all batteries, battery cables, and starter cables. If the batteries have side mounted terminals and haven't been modified (improved), do that while you're checking:

Battery Terminal Fix (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/batterm.htm)

Again, check the cables themselves to be sure that they are within specs for resistence, and check for proper voltages at the starter.....

[cwlehner]

Thanks for the advice, but still no luck... I replaced the ignition switch, the 12V lead to the pump seems to be coming on/off with ignition as it should, and the battery connections are clean. If I bypass the ignition lead to starter, it will spin just fine (although I ended up breaking the plastic solenoid while trying grrr...). The park neutral switch seems to be working properly. I am beginning to think that I am not getting any power to the ignition switch, or there is a short between the ignition switch and the park neutral switch. If anyone out there can think of anything else that might be causing the issue, please advise!

Thanks for the help!!

[arveetek]

Did you get it going yet?

Sounds to me like a fusible link, as was mentioned on another board.

Casey

[cwlehner]

Got it running! It was a combination of a bad igntion switch, corroded connections, and a backyard mechanic (me) who didn't study his wiring diagram as well as he should have. I ended up having to install heli-coils in the block to get the starter installed, how the previous owner ever got those bolts to hold is a mystery... Of course installing heli-coils meant removing the front drive shaft (which meant replacing the u-joint when it fell apart) and removing the bell housing cover which of course was stipped out....
At the same time I also decided it would be cool to completly replace the dash (pad, guages, stereo, wheel) with a much better one from a junked out blazer, turned out great, but had many of its own issues...

Thanks to all who helped!

[arveetek]

Good news!

Just FYI, there should be a starter brace on the front of the starter that helps to hold the starter to the block. If yours is missing, I would suggest you get one ASAP. That's what usually causes stripped/broken starter mounts. A new bracket is just a couple of bucks at the local GM dealer.

Casey

[cwlehner]

Thanks for the tip on the starter bracket. I do not have one and that starter is so stinking heavy I can see why it would strip bolts out. Do you know what the GM part number is?

[cwlehner]

Never mind. I found the p/n 14028931