Replace IP

[conejo]

Ok! so I might have to replace the IP. I have limited experance with diesels. Can anyone tell me where to get information on replacing the pump or tell me what is involved. I don't want to take it to the dealer if at all possable.

Thanks
Jake

[TimK]

The pump can be replaced by someone with basic mechanical skills. Two resources to look at for replacing the pump is the R&R Guide sold by this web site and the Haynes guide on diesel repair. The Haynes guide covers the popular Ford 6.9L and 7.3L diesels along with the GMC 5.7, 6.2 & 6.5L diesels. The Diesel page R&R guide is better in my opinion in providing detail then the Haynes manual.

TimK

[catmandoo]

pumps aren't too bad the only major problem is the gear on front of the pump it has to be removed before the pump will come out i think the first one i did i took the front cover offthe motor as it had lots of miles and i wanted to change the timing chain and waterpump anyway

[britannic]

If you don't need to R&R the tming chain, then the pump gear can be unbolted by just removing the oil filler swan neck from the timing cover. The gear is held captive and won't go anywhere whilst you replace the pump - don't turn the engine over with the starter once the gear is detached from the pump, or you risk damage.

Unless you're especially dextrous, you'll also need to remove the intake mainfold to get at the injector line connections to the IP.

[conejo]

Thanks for the information. It helped alot.

[CleviteKid]

Conejo:

Does this mean you did the job last nite?? Or did the info convince you that you can do it yourself?

If the latter: ask your self what condition your water pump is in. Now is the time to change it, because the front cover comes off to change the pump, and that makes the IP job easier.

If the water pump and timing chain are good, I suggest you get the little magnets that go inside your sockets to remove the pump gear bolts thru the oil filler hole. If you drop one of those bolts, the front cover is probably coming off to reclaim it, assuming it does not go all the way down into the bottom of the oil pan.

Another tip when you are putting the injection lines back on: spray all the connections with carburetor cleaner and then brake cleaner, then blow completely dry with compressed air. This will make it MUCH EASIER to see if you have any leaks.

If you have some time before the job, get the 1999 Reprint Book (http://www.thedieselpage.com/back99.htm) for the articles on 6.2L Engine Upgrades. These include lots of tips for making this job easier.

Let us know how you make out.

Dr. Lee :cool: