Cylinder wall rust? stored engine

[Stage1]

Hi,

RE: Blazer project- potential for cylinder wall rust?

Getting ready to run/use a stored 6.2 diesel engine. The engine is in a 85 CUCV Blazer, do not know the history, probably stored 2 to 5 years in vehicle with full exhaust system and air cleaner on. The ground surface was probably gravel or asphalt( dry ohio valley area). Any experience on whether I likely have cylinder wall rust/pits? I have no experience w/ 6.2 engines. The engine has low milage, about 25K, confirmed by brake/gas pedal having no wear.

My thoughts were to remove the top end and check for rust/ pits in the cylinder walls. I have not checked to see how easy it turns over wo/compression. Removing the heads would give me a chance to change the precup from "J" to "c" if this is a good idea. This is another subject, do they improve milage about 2 MPG.

Thanks for your help, removing engine this weekend.

Project update, the 1986 Blazer body/ frame is in the shop, starting to under go minor rust repair. Have most of the parts for the 4L80E trans conversion, still need a couple engine parts that need to be changed for this conversion. Getting lots of help on the trans conversion from fellow board member Bobbie. I plan to get the stored engine running w/the existing T400, then do trans swap. Work on only one component at at time since I am not experienced w/this engine or trans.

[john8662]

I don't think there is much need in removing the heads to look for rust nor do I think you'll gain anything by swapping out to C series precups. The key to fuel economy will be keeping the RPM's down, which you'll be doing with the 4L80E giving it an OD. If you want more fuel economy the TH700 takes less power to run, but is not as stout of a tranny.

To check for rust, remove all the glowplugs from the engine, then spin the engine over with the large crank pulley bolt. Don't worry about the bolt coming out, it's torqued to 200 ft. lbs. Anyways, spin the engine over and see how well it turns, if it binds or is REALLY difficult to turn over, it could possibly be rusted. More than likely it's just fine, considering what you've already told. The engine will have to break in again, so it will have some blow-by at first, and then taper off.