I give up [rant on/]

[mdregister]

I am utterly defeated. I changed my rear seal out a few weeks ago and replaced the old rope style with the new two-piece style. A few days later, I noticed fresh oil on the oil pan and flywheel cover. I bit the bullet and decided to change the seal AGAIN since I had another new one lying around. The one I had previously replaced was fine as far as I could tell. I was doubly sure when I installed it to place the "outside" markings on the new seal toward the transmission. I put the seal ends at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock.

Fast forward a few days, and I will be damned, I have oil leaking again. I do not know what I have done wrong. Here is my procedure in a nutshell. All seals are new:

1. Unbolt transmission fluid lines to allow for the removal of oil pan and flywheel cover.

2. Remove flywheel cover and braces.

3. Remove oil pan

4. Remove oil pump

5. Remove bearing cap.

6. Pull out old seal.

7. Clean seal channel/ bearing face with cleaner.

8. Coat new 2 piece seal with oil.

9. Put in new seal with "outside" stamp facing the transmission. Ends are at approx. 2 and 10 o'clock. Seal is snug on the crank.

10.Put LOCTITE anaerobic sealer on appropriate surfaces of the bearing cap and replace bearing cap.

11.Reinstall oil pump.

12.Replace the neoprene gaket on the bearing cap. I have tried it with gasket sealer on the backside of the gasket/and I have tried it without.

13.Clean mating surfaces of the oil pan and block.

14. Reinstall oil pan using only RTV (red).

15. Have a bigger leak than ever!!!!!!!!

Where do you suppose I am going wrong???????


BTW-the CDR valve is new as well.

Mike "the oil baron"

[ 10-22-2004, 04:12 PM: Message edited by: mdregister ]

[catmandoo]

by chance is A. either the oil pressure switch leaking,or B.is the inj pump leaking and running out the back.otherwise sounds like you have it down ok and it should be good to go.

[Larry Andrews]

What's the surface of the crank like where the seal contacts it? Sometimes a smooth ridge will be worn into the sealing surface that looks and feels fine but is too uneven for the seal to make adequate contact.

I had this problem with the waterpump on my kart motor...replaced the seals a bunch of times thinking I was putting them in wrong when it turned out to be that the pump shaft was worn and simply replacing the shaft solved the problem.

Maybe Dr. Lee would have some input? Seems to be sorta related to his particular specialty. smile.gif

[britannic]

Make sure you don't have any ruptured/split injector return lines, they can masquerade as an oil leak (I found out the hard way, after finally removing the engine).

Be sure to hand tighten the front oil pan bolts first that hold it to the timing cover, before the others - otherwise the pan may not seal there.

[britannic]

Originally posted by britannic:
Make sure you don't have any ruptured/split injector return lines, they can masquerade as an oil leak (I found out the hard way, after finally removing the engine).

Be sure to hand tighten the front oil pan bolts first, that hold it to the timing cover, before the others - otherwise the pan may not seal there.