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View Full Version : Making Dual T-Stats Work on a 6.2



Dieselboy
01-13-2004, 12:26
After 20,000 miles and two years, I finally got tired of the ghetto fab work Peninsular Diesel did on a throttle bracket and output pipe. I copied some of More Power's work that was used on the power project. Here's some pictures.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/allweldedupsmall.jpg http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/painted3small.jpg http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/painted2small.jpg http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/alldonesmall.jpg http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/alldone2small.jpg

You can see this allows me to use a stock 6.5 upper radiator hose. You'll also notice the shiny new CDR canister since my old one failed GMCTD's manometer test. Thanks JD.
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/newcdrandalittleodgreensmall.jpg

I'm uploading more pictures: www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/ (http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/dualtstats/)

Thanks for the design, Jim.

gmctd
01-13-2004, 12:43
Neat stuff - did you use TIG or MIG fer the aluminum?

Dieselboy
01-13-2004, 13:04
I got a friend of mine to TIG weld it all.

Peter J. Bierman
01-13-2004, 13:25
Nice job.

Peter

dieselcrawler
01-13-2004, 18:09
Nice work... I like to see that kinda thing. I enjoy tinkering with and making things like that for my own stuff. Then you know it's JUST WHAT YOU NEED for your application, not what someone else thinks you need, and it WORKS!
However, I have a question... the dual t-stats... do they just help improve the flow of coolant, or what? I've heard them mentioned, but what's the reason behind them?
Greg

john8662
01-13-2004, 19:32
Stupid Question:

You did a really nice job on the bracket, nice enough to inspire me to do the same on my 4x4 86" 6.2 project suburban/truck. My stupid question is, what about the cruise control? Mine on my 86 doesn't work, and I suppose with a lift and all in the near future with big tires, its not going to be needed. Is there a way to make room for the vacuum servo that runs the cruise (when I find out whats up with it)?

Dieselboy
01-13-2004, 22:00
My cruise control died a long time ago, and I didn't see any purpose in replacing the expensive factory components. There is however still enough room to fit the factory components given careful measuring and design work. Instead, I plan work on an all electronic cruise setup similar to what Dr. Lee has since it will be the most cost effective solution. At this point, I want to sink money into designing and building new bumpers more than cruise control.

The upper bracket didn't take that long to design using cardboard modeling, and I can modify/build a new one that has provisions for cruise with little effort. I kept all of my cardboard models, so I can trace them out onto more steel with slight revisions - no problem.

In addition to adding cruise control, I've found a high idle setup that uses a cable with threaded control in the cab. It's basically like having another throttle cable that you adjust by hand. I've left enough room on the current bracket to add that on when I get the cash.

Since I am running the 110 gpm Peninsular pump, the dual thermostats on the 6.2 do increase flow, but to what degree I'm not sure. To be honest, I've got them just because I like them, and they're cool. :D

[ 01-13-2004, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: Dieselboy ]

C.K. Piquup
01-14-2004, 03:49
Nice Fabbing.Keep us up on the cable controlled hi-idle/throttle set-up.I used to play with that feature on my dad`s `62 Land Rover.I`d have all my buddies get out,then I`d follow,just to"freakumout".I can think of more mature uses now,of course.I`ll be setting up a winch on my Suburban for instance.Not to mention trouble-free and selectable idle control.Good work.

Dieselboy
02-02-2004, 09:01
Quick update:

I got to put some miles on the new setup, and everything is working well. I did notice a few small leaks in the cast aluminum output pipe where the welds were. There were pinholes that only leaked during the coolant pressure spike after shutting off the engine. It would be nice to have pressure tested it prior to installation, but that's really not feasible. I pulled it off and had the leaks re-welded. It's fine now.

Upon reassembly I installed GM 195F thermostats. Now, I've only run one tankfull (35 gal) since, but got 17mpg where previously 160s gave 13mpg and 180s gave 14.5mpg. I'll have do a few more tanks to get a better average, but the previous thermostats yielded not just worse economy, but less power and more smoke too, so I'm cautiously optimistic.

Interestingly, my temp gauge seems to be accurate now. I've run each of the three different temp thermostats, and with 160s or 180s, the gauge would sit around 150 and not move unless I really worked the engine. Even then, the 170 was the all-time high. Now, with the 195s, the gauge moves right up to 190-200 and sits there. The sending unit is the 323,000 mile original. I can only figure that the gauge has a high percentage of error when outside the "normal" range of 190-210.

[ 02-02-2004, 02:31 PM: Message edited by: Dieselboy ]

ZZ
02-02-2004, 10:18
Dieselboy, where did you get the filter kit for this truck? Will it fit any 6.2L?

Dieselboy
02-02-2004, 15:34
ZZ,
I'm not quite sure what filter kit you're refering to. If you're asking about the modified dual thermostat pipe and brackets, I made them - see the top post.

ZZ
02-02-2004, 16:34
I meant the box over the intake where the factory breather was. The box with Sidewinder on it

britannic
02-02-2004, 17:22
Originally posted by ZZ:
I meant the box over the intake where the factory breather was. The box with Sidewinder on it That comes with the Banks SideWinder turbo kit.