heater core quick connector

[Phil Holmen]

I need to know what size this connector is on the heater hose, that darn piece of s*&T aluminum piece broke when I was installing the upgraded thermostat housing. I was removing the old one in the housing to install a new one but have since decided to install a nipple rather than bend the factory aluminum line.

[Jeff Hansen]

I just had the exact same issue on my 95 while installign the dual thermostat updgrade. It was late sunday night adn whiel I do not liek auto zone they happned to have the exact unit in the HELP auto section, it was $ 12.99. I ended up also buying the short nipple as I did not want to make a return trip adn discovered that the short nipple offered greater clearacne than the quick release at the electrical connector on the ac compressor so I woudl say you made the right move

[Low_Bridge]

In general I don't like the way alot the auto shops have gone. I know there are some benefits but. For to long they hav'nt been able to think outside the box. I sure do miss the days of Maberry!

Thank God for the diesel page!

[Barry Nave]

I've alway have good luck with Auto Zone. :confused:
Any thing goes bad it's just my time involed replacing the part. Noting last for ever, replace Alt,no charge,Battery's,no charge,starter,nocharge. Buy once, thats it :D

[Phil Holmen]

gm part# for the nipple I installed #00354501

[additive]

After more than 160,000 mile on my suburban, the quick release coming out of the dual t-stats is leaking. And of course it is on labor day weekend when not much will be open.

Are we all talking about the same thing? I am looking for a threaded nipple that I can screw into the dual t-stat housing and get rid of the aluminum hose?

I know that Tanker has done this modification and if he happens to be reading can shed some light on the part.

Thanks Alot,
Additive

[whatnot]

I think it is 1/2" npt. (maybe 3/8")
I have just had a galvanized pipe nipple in mine for about 1-1/2 years. About 2 or 3" long with the hose clamped onto it.

[additive]

What a day! That quick connect is not the best idea gm has had. I went to replace the quick connection after picking up the nipple at AutoZone and when attempting to unscrew it out of the t-stat housing, it broke off. There I was with the threads stuck in the t-stat hosing. This cast aluminum is not the easiest to work out either.

So, as luck would have it, I had an extra t-stat housing (crossover) that was left over from my project I was going to do on my 94 to upgrade to the newer cooling mods. After wroking all day in the 105 degree sun, it is up and going.

Problem today was that my truck is down because I am attacking the crappy Ford hub bearing problem. So I have the drive shaft out of the driver side.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum that has educated me on how to keep this rig running and save money at the same time!

Additive

[Marty Lau]

I put a brass nipple in a got at the hardware store for $1.75 and short piece of heater hose and clamps then you don't have to bend that pipe.
This what Jim (MP) did with the 6.5 project truck.

[gymcarm]

I had to replace the intake manifold on a gasser suburban because of that junk fitting. I have one now in the 6.5 Sub and I am afraid to disturb it. The one on the gasser broke off in the intake and nothing I did could get the rest of it out. It makes perfect sense for mass production, but down the road, it is not a good idea at all.

[Hye]

When my quick connector broke off in the '94 Suburban crossover, I used one of those stepped drill bits that will make progressively larger holes in sheet metal to remove the stuck threads from the crossover pipe. It centers in the hole nicely. Go in just far enough that a pipe tap will catch the first thread. I got lucky and didn't even need to take the crossover off the engine. Bought a new quick connect from GM. Eventually, it leaked, too. I now have a brass fitting and rubber hose.