Bad torque converter?

[4x4Dreamer]

A few weeks ago, my truck wouldn't shift past 1 gear, it would go into reverse and 1st and be fine, but wouldn't shift into 2nd or beyond. I dropped the pan, changed the filter and fluid, cleaned about 1/8 inch of crud from the pan, checked the governor, and readjusted the TV cable. It worked great for a little while, but yesterday, it stranded me at work with the same problem.

When it gets up in the rpms in 1st, I hear a whirring fron under the truck. Recently, it's taken some spinning of the engine to get over small obstructions or up my driveway, especially in reverse.

After the fluid change, it was shifting buttery smooth, but on the way to work yesterday, I had one really hard shift, then it was fine again.

Could this be a bad torque converter? I think that it's not building pressure like it should to make the shifts, but I'm kinda stuck here. I know it could be something in the valve body, but I'm scared of going in there, but will if I have to.

Looking for any input. Thanks in advance.

[CleviteKid]

It is probably NOT your torque converter. Since shifting is the problem, the stuff that controls the shifting is the root cause. There is a vane pump inside your tranny that makes around 200 psi pressure to move all the valves and apply the clutches and bands. And if you really had 1/2 inch of crud in the pan, you likely have crud all through the transmission.

Yours might be a case where a good transmission flush by a good reputable transmission shop might help. Or you might want to start saving for a quality upgraded remanufactured automatic.

Dr. Lee :cool:

[4x4Dreamer]

You're full of good news :D

I've been googling like a madman today, some of the causes are:
1. Bad Governor. I just pulled this and it looks fine, it's still round and not apple-core shaped.

2. Low Fluid. I just filled it up about 2 weekends ago and checked it last night.

3. TV Cable. I JUST adjusted it, so unless it's slipping or stuck, it's fine. I'll mess with that this weekend.

4. Burnt clutch pack. With the crud in the pan, I wouldn't be surprised.

5. Something in the valve body. Wouldn't that be my luck.

6. Broken band for 2nd gear. Not sure about this one.

7. Toasted TC. Likewise. I get that whirring noise, but I don't know. I'm half tempted to buy a new TC and a rebuild kit and have at it myself. They say they're not as scary as they look. I can't really afford a new tranny right now and it's our only source of transport. Fortunately, I carpool to work.

[ZZ]

Your problems sound just like what I had when my first 700R4 went out. It would shift Ok for a few days and then not shift out of low at the start of a day. I could take it on the road and then tromp the pedal a couple of times and then it would be good a few more days.

I finally spent $1000 and got a rebuilt one and now live with the present problems this one has. You can read about them in a couple of threads that I started here.

Good luck on whatever happens.

[4x4Dreamer]

I am planning to buy a rebuild kit and a new torque converter and a good manual. I'm gonna give this rebuild thing a shot and see if I can handle it. At most, it'll only put me out 100 bucks or so if I completely screw it up.

Anyone tried this themselves?

[BobND]

If you have the original '83 transmission, there's been a LOT of improvements since then.

There are pump kits available to increase the number of vanes for better pressure, and less noise, as well as a host of other improvements.

There are aftermarket clutch packs for the OD clutch that add more plates, as well as valve body improvement parts.

Usually, you will find that the steel valve body plate has been well worn by the checkballs, and needs to be replaced.

A good tranny shop that sells parts, and is willing to visit with you can walk you through some of the upgrades that are a good idea.

Many of the seal rings in the tranny were originally Teflon, and it's almost a necessity to have tools to intstall them, and a sleeve (tool) to hold them compressed before installation.

Many performance tranny rebuilders instead use old-fashioned cast iron seal rings that they believe seal better (and are easier to install).

Clutch clearances are crucial to long life. Pros mix and match various steels and lined plates to get just the "right" clearances they are comfortable with.

If you can find an "expert" willing to advise you on this rebuild, you can easily build up a transmission better than the original.

I have a book at the shop listing various factory and aftermarket upgrades and improvements over the years, I don't remember who it's by, offhand, but I could post that later, if you are interested.

[4x4Dreamer]

I'm talking with a guy who sells tranny's and kits on Ebay, he has the .500 Boost valve, Corvette servos, and 13 vane pump kit. I'm going to see if he has the 9 clutch pack, then if we can come to a deal, I should be rolling down the road.