Replacing vac pump with an Acdelco unit. The pulley on the old pump looks fine and a new one(Dorman is all I can find) is fifty bucks or more. Anybody see any problem installing the old pulley on the new pump? Thanks.
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Replacing vac pump with an Acdelco unit. The pulley on the old pump looks fine and a new one(Dorman is all I can find) is fifty bucks or more. Anybody see any problem installing the old pulley on the new pump? Thanks.
The original should be fine.
Just use one of the "Push/Pull tools to remove and replace.
If the old one is not damaged (Bent) It is as good as a new one.;);)
Thanks, that's what I was thinking....will remove and install with the proper tool. Have a great Labor Day weekend. :D
You betcha..
Be safe...have a great weekend
Years ago when we could get the pulleys new we'd add the pulley and install it so the pump was just bolt on and go. Like many other parts they were discontinued probably 10+ years ago.
Thanks for the info....all I could find new was a Dorman for over $50, then had to get a loaner tool for removal/install. Just reused the old one as it looked good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennedy
As long as the pulley runs true (Not bent) and the drive face is in good shape, it's as good as a new one.
If ya need it to look new....a bomb can of paint can spiff it right up...:)
That's exactly what I did...a few shots of high temp black paint and it was all spiffed up. Lol. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
Good deal...:D
"Rebuilt"!Quote:
Originally Posted by rnash4
"Remanufactured to exacting industry standards" LolQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnC
Yeah buddy......:D:D
The sad thing is that you've probably done more than many do for "rebuilt" products.
Just had this goaround with a customer's truck a couple weeks ago. No pumps available locally other than 1 dorman. Bought it reluctantly as customer needed the truck. Pulley would not even start on new pump as shaft was bigger by about 7 thou. Got the dorman pulley thinking dorman pulley should fit dorman pump. No go. Dug deeper & found a cardone rebuilt that original pulley fit on. That should buy me a few months to locate a better replacement.
Didn't mention it earlier but while replacing the vac pump I also installed a new Fluidampr 800-141, along with a new Acdelco crank pulley, belt tensioner, and a new FleetRunner serp belt. Was going to do the '97 cooling upgrade and maybe check/replace the timing set at the same time but decided to do those later. The truck only has 120K and no cooling issues. But I needed to quit messing around and replace the old HB and crank pulley as they are possibly original. At a glance they looked ok but after removal they both had many small cracks throughout the rubber. Will try to post pics. All I can say is that the Fluidampr is as advertised. Made a huge difference at all RPMs and made the old truck run smoother and quieter. Will still need to keep an eye on the crank pulley but the FD should outlast the engine. Thanks again for all the previous replies. Attachment 4387
Attachment 4388
FYI.....also replaced the crank seal. I could not get the RED Acdelco crank seal to go on at all, ended up destroying it. Lol. Could NOT get it started. Asked around and somebody told me about a GREEN crank seal from NAPA, part#23300. It is supposedly a few microns smaller in diameter but I can't confirm that as I didn't have a way to measure it. But I did get it started with minimal effort and it went in snug. Have put several hundred miles on it with no problems. And NAPA lists this crank seal as the correct one for my truck, so if anybody has a problem with a RED seal try the GREEN. Worked for me. Attachment 4389
The Fluid Damper is a great addition ;)
I have run several 6.5 with the stock single stat cooling and standard water pump and they were fine...
Installing the crank seal can be tedious.... A SEAL DRIVER that has a thick plate on it and a tube that fits over the crank is a much needed tool for this job.
I made one the last time I did a seal with the cover on the engine...
Took maybe an hour to build, but the Red seal will go right in easily using the tool and a hefty club to tap with...
GLAD things came together.....:)
Thanks Robyn....I used a poor man's Kent-Moore Seal Driver....a PVC pipe fitting the same diameter as the seal about 3 inches long, a block of wood and a wooden mallet. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Robyn
The idea is sound, ya just need to use a steel pipe.
Thread on a cap to beat on and in most cases an adapter to the next size of pipe larger will suffice to span the seal.
I usually toss the adapter in the lathe and true up the surface that will contact the seal.
PVC will/does flex too much.
That makes sense....will try that next time.