can I pull the pan without major hassle ? my replacement motor was no good! big surprise! I wanted to try re bearing the con rod/s and or crank any input is welcome
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can I pull the pan without major hassle ? my replacement motor was no good! big surprise! I wanted to try re bearing the con rod/s and or crank any input is welcome
You can pull the pan with the engine installed. It's not a lot of fun though.
On 4wd models all you need to do is drop down the front differential a little to get the clearance to get the pan off. On 2wd trucks you have to lift the engine up after you've removed the engine mount bolts.
You can install new rod bearings from underneath, the trouble will come in identifying what the problem really is.
What are your symptoms?
Low oil pressure?
Bad knock?
Usually the rod bearings are not the main source of a knock in these engines, it's usually something else if you've got good oil psi.
J
it is a knock detectable on idle, rev, and let off my mechanic heard it over the phone and said sounds like a rod knock.sound to be that to me also but I need to run it to really warm it up as I don't want to invest much more time or money into this engine or truck. I didnt run it very long and its still a bugger to start. Sound like its from passengers front portion. It is 4wd can i lift the motor rather than drop the diff that seems like more work to drop the diff.
A leaky injector can sound just like a rod knock, and is a lot easier to fix, too! I'd eliminate that first.
Lossen each injector one at a time and see if there is any changeQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnC
A rod can knock for a couple of reasons, the least of which would be a bearing. The other option is that the big end of the rod is out of round, which is a much bigger problem and is a lot more common than you might think. My question is why aren't you going back to whoever rebuilt the motor, or if it's used, most legitimate engine suppliers will give you at least a 30 day warranty, just so you know you got a motor that runs.:confused:
Or to put it another way, 99% of the time a rod bearing is bad or knocking, the rod bore or crank journal are damged or "out of spec", and replacing the bearing without correcting these problems will be a short-lived "Band-Aide" project, at best!
broke down,
The suggestion to drop the differential is easier than you might think. Simply remove only the large supporting bolts that hold it in. The differential will drop down about 2", and won't fall out of the brackets. This will grant you the clearance necessary to remove the pan. You don't have to remove the whole differential from the vehicle.
The bad news is that what others are saying is right on the money. Replacing just the bearing (if a bad one is found) will usually only be a short term patch because the specifications of the rod and the crank journal will be out. The crank journal will the scored (leading to taking material off the bearing) or the rod big end egged shaped, leading slack that will beat the bearing and not distribute the load evenly.
Post back what you find.
Whats the details on the second hand engine?