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6.5 Girdle
The custom engine work shown here was performed by Andrew Ashwill in 2002.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/p...0/ashwill9.jpg
Andrew did some great custom machining that I thought should be shown to those who weren't here in the BB five years ago. :)
Jim
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Did this also have a custom pan? I have been thinking of trying to mill one myself but not quite as elaborate. Also where did you get the studs from? P.S. It does look good!
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Can one be purchased from him now. I would like one of those.
That is some beautiful machine work. I am teary eyed just looking at it. Heck I might just make that my computer background.
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Custom Main caps with cross bolts and the whole 9 yards.
IF that wont keep the bottom end together, doubtful anything will.
This fine piece and a steel crank would make the 6.5 a real 10 for sure.
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Didn't he sell that truck\engine a while back?
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I have came up with a design that covers all 5 main caps but I seemed to have reached a snag I'm having trouble locating bolts. I need 12x1.75x85mm. any ideas? These things fit but I need longer bolts. Studs won't fit under the pan on the #1 main cap. :confused:
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looking for bot=lts
looking for bolts if you have a Fastenal in your area contact them if they don't have the bolts thay can custom make you the bolts you need to your specs.
great looking machine work on this really nice
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Slim, If you or anyone else would like to contact Andrew for a block girdle or any other custom machining, send me a PM with your email address, and I'll forward your note to him. I was in contact with Andrew as recently as a couple of months ago. I don't know if he does custom work for others, but it wouldn't hurt to ask... :) His custom Jesel roller rockers look really cool too!
Jim
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I am a big fan of roller rockers. There is a lot of friction (heat, HP loss...) where those suckers ride on those shafts.
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RE: girdle kit
More Power,I sent you a PM with my cell number. I am interested in the girdle if I can afford it. i like his work, still brings tears to my eyes. I did make it my screen saver and my background picture. Dam I like good machine work.
Slim
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Your message has been forwarded... :)
Jim
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looking for a little clarification here........i'm thinking that the girdle is just extra support or strength for your crank bearings to prevent the typical cracking on the block....am i right? sorry if it sounds stupid but i just wasn't positive and was hoping for an answer
I'm also wondering if its better to have the girdle or the splayed main caps.......i'd rather not take it to the machine shop because i'm not planning on doing a full rebuild just yet.
also curious if something like the girdle is easy to install, and are they rather readily available?
if adding the girdle is a good way to ensure i don't crack my block i'm thinking i should do it while i have the engine out of my truck.
thanks in advance for any advice
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My instincts tell me the girdle is plenty adequate.
I had an epiphany when I was working on my build. I dropped the crank in the block and was staring at it when the cause of block failures occured to me.
When the cylinder in any engine fires around TDC the stress put on the crank is not torsional, as many people think (that happens many degrees of rotation later), but rather a bending moment. LAter in the rotation there is a combined torsiona and bending moment. These bending moments flex the crank in the main bearing supports, and tend to push the caps back and forth along the axis of the main bearing bore. This, combined with the spreading force put on the main cap block threads from the bolts and the limited thread engagement of the outer holes, is what I believe initiates cracks in this region.
A sturdy girdle (preferably much heavier than the one DSG sells, but the DSG girdle is far better than no girdle) ties the caps together, and minimizes movement in the axis parallel to the crank bore. In theory this should drastically reduce the stress on the main webs. Since the caps won't move as much the crank's bending moment will also be reduced in magnitude, and this should (again, theoretically) reduce fatigue stress in the crank. Using studs in place of main bolts to get full thread engagement and reduce the spreading force on the bolt holes is also a big help. This is how I am building my 6.2, and I think these steps will pretty much solve the block and crank issues that these motors are known for.
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MP:
Any pictures of the Jesel Roller Rockers available to post?
I recall the Grape was experimenting with some Mopar Roller Rockers.
HammerWerf
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http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/p...will-jesel.jpg
I just wish I had Andrew's machining skills... .:(
Jim
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wow............i want!!!!!!!!!!:D
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WOW does that fix the problem with those stupid nylon push pins who's Idea was that anyway? That is awesome machining.
Can I buy those anywhere?
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The mods shown here were Andrew Ashwill's original ideas, as they pertain to the 6.5, and the full article was first published here in TDP in 2002. This electronic DS4 equipped 6.5 produced 226 horsepower and 426 lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels - on a chassis dyno. He was also running a Peninsular non-wastegated turbocharger and his own custom-built charge air cooler. Everything was top-drawer....
As I recall, the rockers and related components were off-the-shelf components, but the shaft mounts on the heads needed to be machined to accept them. You'll also note the aluminum spacer that raises the valve cover a small amount to provide a little more cover clearance - for the rocker adjusters. A little tin-smithing could work too, to create blisters in the valve covers for more rocker adjuster clearance... if it could be done in an aesthetic way. :)
Jim
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I cant take any more. That man's machine work is spectacular, he is an artist when it comes to machine work.
I hope he will do a girdle for me.