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Is anyone using Dieselsecret.com formula with veggie oil?
I've read their website and I am not totally convinced that it only cost 0.46 cents per gallon or that it works. You buy their additive with instructional video and manual for 39.95 + shipping. Any comments would help me out.
IMHO, snake oil and dangerous. The "ingredients" you will add to veggie oil is regular unleaded gas and their "secret" formula which is mainly Xylene according to the MSDS on their product. I have not paid for it, nor used it but many have posted what the $39.95 gave them. A guy on thedieselstop says he has been usuing it for "awhile" with "no problems", although he now buys Xylene from Lowes and does not use the "Diesel Secret" additive anymore.
Good Luck - I won't flame you or think anything of it, if you do decide to run the "Diesel Secret" formula. I still haven't met anyone that said they ran it and the motor blew up. I just don't want to be the first. I'd like to see some lab testing on the final product before I made a final decision.
I have a friend with a 2003 6.0L PS, and he's used it for over a year, and swears by it.
At the same time, he's been stranded in the desert twice and had his truck on the hook at least a dozen times, for fuel system issues. He insists it is not the DS, but it's because his truck is a POS. I think he's half right. He also insists what he is using is "biodiesel", and no different than the commercially produced bio. We are friends, we just don't talk Diesel, except an ocasional snide remark (can't resist).
Read the MSDS and jugdge for youself. Unleaded gas and mothballs.
Thank you for the replys. Gasoline? Wow I was not expecting that!
What about Diesel? You would think maybe that would be in the mix to thin it out, but not gasoline in a diesel engine. Has anyone bought into the Diesel Secret and used it in their Dmax?
What I found to interesting is that you don't have to convert your truck to be able to use their product. Any more replys would be helpful or directions to more info on this forum also.
Steve
You don't have to convert anything if you use REAL biodiesel. It is a little more expensive (around $1 - $1.50/gal to make depending on who you believe) and time consuming to make, but what gets me is the vehicle manufactures actually bless it in small (5%) percentages. I heard DCX is going to allow up to 20% soon.
No offense to you, but your friend is a moron..Quote:
Originally Posted by DmaxMaverick
(Did I just say that out loud?)
Biodiesel is approved by the major manufacturers and called a "direct replacement for regular diesel fuel" by the US Department of Energy.
DS is a complete scam. It will damage a benz engine most of the time and any new truck every time. Anyone saying they have 50,000 miles on the stuff without problems could be the luckiest person on the planet.
With all due respect to you.. I know you're just passing on what he said but I needed to speak up on this one.
have been using this on '94 Sub for about 800 miles now. biggest problem is hard starting. It takes about 2-3 cycles (crank/ rest starter) when its been sitting over night. I haven't had it much longer than that, so not sure if it might be air in sys or other coinsident problem. Also, noticed about 2mpg drop in fuel economy(hard to be exact when making own fuel) Other than that, it runs strong once started. I'm sold- it cost me $3 a say vs $18 to commute to work
94Sub:
The good news is that most diesels will run on SVO and have the same issue you are talking about (hard start). Only issue I can see is winter if you live in a cold climate.
Glad you got it work and are happy, I just don't trust it. I barely trust biodiesel, but at least there is an ASTM spec for it and I buy from a commercial producer. (I've only run 42 gal and 20 Gallons of that went into the Jetta TDI)
Saving money would be nicer as this costs as much as #2.
I want to add something to the SVO post. I read an article on TDIClub about a guy who ran Waste Oil for around 50k+ miles. His motor was TOAST, it looked REALLY REALLY nasty. He "got off" easy since he found a motor for $2k to put back in, plus a turbo for $1500 (although he burned one up not knowing what was going on so it cost him another $1500) I believe the answer to his issue was filtration and water in the oil. You have to be very regimented and anal retentive to get Waste Oil to work.
I'd rather perfect a way to biodiesel it within ASTM specs and run it that way. Even if I only save $1 - $1.50 a gallon. With a new centrifuge bio system o nthe horizon it may not be that bad afterall, although there is a price barrier that I hope to break soon with a co-op.
I was reading about DS a while back, I think it said they use the unleaded fuel to thin out the WO, but they also said you can mix the DS WO with any amount of diesel. So why couldn't you use the DS w/o unleaded and diesel in a 50/50 mix? so if that works it would cut the cost of diesel in half.
Want to see what Waste Vegetable Oil does when it gets hot?
Check this link out: http://www.vegistroke.com/Polymerization_Report.html
At least it looks like diesel mixed with WVO seems to hold-up. The person doing the test is going try it with BioDiesel and see how it performs in the same test.
I too wish I could just filter and dewater WVO and run it without a problem. Free fuel is free fuel, but if it hurts the longevity of the motor then it isn't worth it in the long run.
Dakster, I found that experiment link intriguing. thanks.
I'm still questionable as to the long-term affects of the diesel secret. However, that is why I'm trying this in a 1994 with 261k. If I can safely put 50k on it, I will have saved enough to put another long block in my newly acquired favorite vehicle.
I started out researching the BIo-diesel route. I ran into difficulty
when it came down to procuring Methanol. And the question of what to
do with all the glycerin by-product. I decided to give the
diesel-secret a try. I filter my wvo 3 times and use a water block filter, which was previously mentioned as a necessary to keep from plugging any
component. I pulled my fuel filter at 1000k and it appeared pretty clean.
I have noticed that it runs a little quieter. The hard starting issues I had been having were probably due to dry- rotted fuel line, I have slowly been replacing. She is starting alot better. I have run out of fuel twice, once the gage was indicating 1/8 and other time it was at ¼ tank. I’m not sure if this would be attributable to the secret mix in the tank or just a sender problem. Glad I decide to get AAA when I got this vechile!
This site is an amazing resource and would happy to keep you up to date
on my success or failure.
There is a guy CJ Hall on TDR who's been doing Diesel Secret for about 2 years now and tens of thousands of miles between two trucks, a 2004 Dodge Cummins (pre cat) and a 2005 (cat converter). He did have some difficulties with solidifying in cold weather and plugging filters but other than that it has worked very well for him. The DSE does work and is good stuff when used properly. He has been sampling his engine oil regularly to keep tabs on its health and pulled the injectors once to look at them. . .they looked great. The oil anayses always come back very good, typical for what you'd get running #2.
As far as mixing the DSE and gasoline, he's experimented with this a lot and says you need both for it to work the best . . . if you use one or the other alone the quality of the blended fuel isn't as good.
CJ fronted the bucks to send the DSE to 2 labs to have it analyzed to find out its true contents. There are 2 main ingredients and a small percentage of many other components, but since then he's been buying the two primary ingredients instead of the DSE for much cheaper. Since the lab tests were quite expensive he's not giving out the info for free, I did buy it from him for $50. I've been doing DSE in my '98 Dodge Cummins 12v for about a year and so far so good. The highest percentage I do is 50/50 blended DSE fuel to diesel. One thing I've done (which CJ has done) is add a heater to warm the fuel in order to run more reliably in cold weather and to reduce the percentage of gas and DSE required to bring the viscosity in line with diesel fuel.
If you want to drop CJ a line his email is lowfuelcosts@msn.com
Vaughn
94Suburban, Please keep us informed as to how you do with the fuel. A truck with 261K on the odometer and you are preparing to put a new motor in anyways. I feel you can't go wrong. I have a hard time putting something unknown into a brand new truck as an experiment. My barrier to start making Bio is the same, where to get the methanol (without having to drive 200 miles each way). I won't have a "lot" of glycerin to get rid of. Although if I was able to make enough of it I have been reading that there are companies who will buy "dirty glycerin".
Vaughn, not to ask that you "give away" the info for free, but did the fuel pass any of the ASTM specs for either diesel fuel or bio-diesel? To me that is the most important, because if your motor breaks the dealer will send a fuel sample out to test.
Dakster,
Just joined the diesel page. Have a '99 6.5 live in south florida east coast You said you are buying biodiesel from a commercial source. can you tell me where ? & how can I find a source near Ft. Lauderdale?
A friend has a Jetta '06 and uses vegetable oil straight he gets from costco...Can this be true ??? Thanks JI e-ml is bi550@bellsouth.net
is it really worth trying the diesel secret formula in a 6.5 diesel or is going to cause problems. overall. what are your thoughts. good, bad, little bit of both? i love having a diesel vehicle, but i need a more affordable way to fill up my tank. i've already had a major injector problem w/ mine. is this product going to cause premature damage to the 6.5 fuel system or engine? thank you
My apologies for the late reply…..To summarize my alternate fuel endeavors since last post. At about 7000 miles using the diesel secrete mix, I got a bad batch of oil and clogged my injectors. I was blowing so much smoke back home, I looked like a coal fired smoke stack. I finally attributed this to either hydronated oil or too much grill cleaner in the oil I picked up. A buddy I have been sharing oil with noticed the same rough running problem with the same batch. His wasn’t as concentrated as the oil I had in mine though.
About two weeks after I replaced the injectors , my pump went. BY this time I was getting discouraged. I replaced that next and went back to running diesel until I could figure out what was going wrong.
My alternate fuel buddy had since figured out that we had not been letting the oil sit long enough to settle the suspended water out of it.
I now have about 3000 miles on filtered oil that is free of water and noticeably better running. I have been cutting this oil with about 40% diesel. No problems as of yet. -----Let your vegetable oil sit 3-6 days before filtering. Take it off the top and pitch the bottom sludge. Filters last longer too.
Not using the diesel secret these last 3000 miles , just filtered oil and diesel.