6.2 Turbo Tow Build

Hey, I'm new to the site so I hope this is the correct section to begin this thread.

I have a 1984 m1028 with a 6.2 diesel and a little over 50,000 miles.

I'm hoping to get a bit more power out of her for occasionally towing a car trailer. The heaviest thing I will tow is my m1009 Blazer. I figure that loaded with tools I could be close 10,000 pounds including the trailer.

This truck has 4 inches of lift. It has a DIY shackle Flip in the rear and 4 inch tuff country springs up front. It currently sits on 37 inch bfg military bajas.

I am also hoping to swap to an nv4500 in the future for overdrive and reliability. A second future hope is a passenger side saddle tank setup for WVO.

I have a 6.5 turbo setup and a couple complete 6.2s with which to work from.


I really have no knowledge about the internals of these engines so I will be starting from zero and appreciate any and all advice.

Howdy
Welcome! It's all here for your trucks.
In my opinion, the only route to go for REAL power gains for your rig is a turbo setup. I have M1009 and it is non-turbo. I have done just about everything that can be done to it(easily) except the turbo. It has open exhaust with long tube headers, custom air intake system with ram air, open plenum intake, newer injectors and increased fuel flow. My neighbor has a truck identical to yours(tire size and everything) and he put a Banks turbo kit on. His truck will walk all over mine...no competition. Gearing has something to do with that....but the turbo is the main thing. He has used his to pull about 12,500 up into the mountains of Colorado and as long as he was driving within limits and watched EGTs he had no problems. That being said...he is now in the process of building a cummins:rolleyes:.
I have allot of experience pulling loads with the M1028s and they always did what they were supposed to do, just not fast or fancy.
There are allot of things that you can do to your truck for free... I would start there.
Open up the exhaust, increase your air flow and turn the fuel rate up just a little...see what you think. If that doesn't make you happy then go the turbo route.

The newer 6.5 with electric fuel pump would not be an option to adapt to your truck. The turbo off of it could be used to make a turbo system but not easily. If you have a mechanical fuel injection 6.5 then it would be an option to swap that into your truck.

Use the search window on this forum and you will find TONS of great info.

Hope this helps...

Thanks,

I already have a 6.5 turbo set up. I have the intake plenum, turbo, and exhaust manifold. I do not have the hardware. I picked everything up for $100 which seemed fair to me. The banks kits seem to be $$$. At almost 2 grand they are more than I originally paid for the truck. I have heard of people using the 6.5 setup with similar power increases but it may just be hype.

There are a few more things that you would need to do to use the 6.5 turbo setup. I am pretty sure there are members here that have done it and put the info online. The main advantage to the banks is the kit format. It is expensive but for some it is worth it just because everything comes in the box and it is a proven product.
If you look for them on Ebay they come up now and again for about 2/3 of new.

I honestly don't trust ebay enough to spend more than a few dollars. If I'm buying a turbo kit I'd like to see it in person.

I can weld and exhaust work doesn't scare me.

I also think I am looking to go more in depth than just adding a turbo to my current setup. The banks setup seems like a good option to boost stock numbers, but I'd like to attempt to build some real power with a few more rpms.

I'm not opposed to not using the 6.5 turbo, but $100 versus $2000 for what seems to be the same modification with similar power gains (to the best of my knowledge) seemed like the way to go.

Howdy
Depending on who you talk to...."real power" from a 6.5 normally means reliability and durability will suffer unless you spend BIG$$$$$$.

By that I mean, if you want to get into the 300+ range you should be thinking of a new P400 block. and serious top end with some real turbo power with intercooler, ect....

I had a 1999 that was probably in the neighborhood of 240+ and it was really nice to pull and drive but it was noticeably hotter than any other 6.5. I had some pretty high dollars invested in it. I am a maintenance nut and really took care of that engine. 132,000 miles and it turned into a vtwin and v6.:rolleyes: my son used part of the crank to make a shop stool.

My current 6.5 is not even close to that truck but I am hoping to get many more miles out it.

So do a search on the 6.5 for 275hp and you should come up with some good info.

Good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by richcz28

I'd like to attempt to build some real power with a few more rpms.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dvldog8793

Howdy
Depending on who you talk to...."real power" from a 6.5 normally means reliability and durability will suffer unless you spend BIG$$$$$$.

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I have to agree with Dvldog - depending on your definition of “real power” you’d probably further ahead starting with a Cummins unless you want to spend a lot of money.

You guys are right. I should define real power.

I want to be able to pull onto the highway in Massachusetts and the tri-state area without feeling like I'm going to kill someone.

I want to go up hills without the need to downshift from a 1:1 ratio.

I want to be able to easily hold highway speeds of 75mph against a headwind.

I want to be able to reliably and safely tow at the speed limit. 65mph.

I don't need to burn rubber into third gear. I don't need to tow a 5th wheel. I don't need the added weight and cost of a cummins.

That's a tall order, even for modern light trucks. You can't get there from here. Perhaps with a well built 6.5L. Otherwise, you'll have to go modern and spend a bunch. You can significantly improve what you currently have, but what you require (want) isn't reliably possible. What you are asking for is 250+ Diesel HP. The 6.2L is a real workhorse, but it just won't do that. That's the reality.

Howdy
Sounds like you are in the duramax/cummins power range.
With some real engine work and modifications along with proper gearing and transmission you MIGHT get close to what you are describing but I think your longevity will really suffer.
With my old truck I regularly pulled a flat deck trailer with about 8-10,000 lb load(so about 12-13,000gross). It would do so pretty handily but It was 45-55 MPH on any hills and 50-60 on open road, that was all based on EGT.

In my experience, the 6.2/6.5 make good reliable power at about 2300-2500 rpm and are operating most efficiently at about 1700-1800 rpm. In the higher RPMs you really need to watch engine temps.

There is a pile of good info on this sight about what people have tried over the years and what really works and what to expect.

Hope this helps

I’m not sure that what you’re asking is out of the realm of the possibilities - unless you’re saying you want to be able to do all of those at the same time - the first three while towing…

I can get on the Pennsylvania highways doing 45~55mph without a problem, unless it is one of those 15 yard on-ramps we seem to have a few of around here.

The NV4500 is L-1-2-3-OD - rarely do I have to drop lower than third on the highway for hills and can maintain 50~55mph.

I have to admit that 75mph is generally a bit fast for the old girl (she does have the aerodynamics of a brick), but 65~70mph is generally no problem.

Generally, I keep it to 55~60mph when towing, have to give myself some extra room on the highway on-ramps, and have found myself down into second at times on the steeper hills, but can generally maintain third and 45mph.

I recently put all the 6.5l turbo diesel parts on my 6.2l 1989-1990 K1500 pickup. It all just bolts on and will really improve the performance. I also swapped in the a NV4500 trans at the same time. The performance is amazing compared to what it was before. I did go to the Banks website and turned up the injection pump as described in their directions sheet. You will also probably have to put two exhaust manifold gaskets on the passenger side manifold for a bit more clearance to the injectors. You will also have to figure out how you will control boost...Left unchecked it will run up to 20lb easy and your head gaskets will not survive long at those pressures. Mine lasted all of two months that way:(. I installed Felpro .010 thicker head gaskets to drop compession one point for a little more margin after that.