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The question is for $75 bucks do I pick up the engine or not. It is an 6.2L engine taken out of a early 90's step van during a refresh project. Engine could be good running or miled out ... condition is unknown. Heads with valve cover, oil pans and water pump are still on. Just missing the injector pumps, injectors, intakes and all the front bolt on accessories.
Anything I should visually inspect when I take a look at them
aww.. thats a piece of junk ;)
Just kidding :D
Thats the '599 casted 6.2 (or 6.5) that's a sought after block, because it has the cabibilty to be boared to 6.5 if its a 6.2L already.
For 75 go pick it up, I would in a minute!
You mentioned a "them" when you're going to look, if there is a second, lemme know!
J
check the main bearing webs for cracks, if none found you are good to go.
Merle
Is this one better than a a 82' 6.2 block?Quote:
Originally Posted by john8662
There is a second block but it does not share the same casting numbers so I am not sure what the deal is, it came from the same type of truck so I'd assume it's the same. but you know the saying assuming makes and ass out or u and me!!!
I will check and maybe get both :)
I'd venture to say that the "best" block in theory is the '82 block, only due to the higher quality alloy that went into casting the block.
The '599 block is the best block of the 6.5 world.
Some 6.2's were 599's because they made that casting from 92-94.
So, they were being cast in 91. GM was working on completing the 6.5 engine and made the block change at that time, so one block that would work for both engines.
The 6.2 officially saw it's last year of production in 92 in most trucks etc, so if the engine (pistons laying around on the shelf) was going to he a 6.2, then no more boring. If it was destined to be a 6.5, bore out the engine another ~.080"
Yeah, if they're the same block, grab them both. If the other turns out to be a 660 block (typical 6.2 block cast no.) and is crack free, it's good to have.
As mentioned if you can, look for webbing cracks before you buy (if they're already apart and the pans are off).
J
Heck, get them both. You could always make one of these!
http://saltersport.net/media/engine1.jpg
trbankii.... I think that my girlfriend would kill me if I tried to bring a coffee table like that in :)
john8662.... thanks for the info ... you have confirmed what I suspected, but I couldn't find the source that I read that from to confirm.
I ask about the 82' block because I have an opportunity to by a GM dealer rebuilt 6.2 in an 82' burb with 150,000km on it (430,000km on odometer).
Maybe I'll pick up the 82' burb and the 90's block(s) so I have a good engine now and possibly a good block for building up as time passes, it's only $150 buck for essentially two long blocks. If I could build one good torque 6.2TD for my CC I would be very happy.
snoman,
kind of related to the subject. Since you installed the ATS turbo in your truck, I was curious how much clearance you had between your frame and the turbo manifold?
Mine is too close, to where when making a sharp right and lightly touching the accelerator the manifold and the bracket that holds the engine mount to the frame touches, It's annoying, just wanted to see if you had the same problem.
I'm thinking it's a 2WD (mine) verses 4WD situation (thinking 4wd bracket system allows more clearance).
thanks!
J
I don't think I am having that problem. Does this give you and idea of how much clearance I have?
http://www3.telus.net/gmc62td/6.2TDSwap/Downpipe.JPG
I installed brand new engergy suspension poly motor mounts so my motor doesn't move too much. I don't think that I have any contact. Let me know if you need more images. My ATS turbo did come from a 2WD truck.
Any chance you know what type of Turbo we have, my secondary input fins are a little chewed up and the turbo is in getting R&R'd but there is not tag on it.
snoman,
Yeah, I have the tag on my turbo, I'll get the numbers tonight when I go out to the shop.
Looks as though you have tons of clearance, mine was a tight fit. The only way that I'm going to get more clearance is to lift the engine enough to get it off the mount, then remove the mount and the mount bracket off the frame. Then grind on the mount bracket to get the clearance I need. I observed ~ 1/4" clearance from the manifold to that bracket.
I took the turbo in at lunch to get an estimate and the shop was able to determine the model ... thanks for the offer.
The turbo basically requires a complete rebuild and is going to cost me $840cdn .... ouch ... only the compressor wheel was salvageable. I still have the excessive crank case pressure which is where all my oil is coming from. I really don't feel like spending over $800 just to put it back on my POS engine ... so much for buying the spare 6.2 blocks. I am going to have to get that running 82' or rebuild mine ASAP :(
Snowman
You should be able to get a better deal if you can shop around a bit.I know you can get a turbo off ebay that will work if you can watch for a while.I'm sure that you can find a different turbo that will work on the ATS manifold,can you use your old one for now till you find a replacement?Someone on this page must have used a differnt turbo on the ATS that will bolt up???
It took me a few months of waiting but i did get the turbo that i was looking for,in the price range that i had,got most of the turbo system with it as a bonus,too bad it wasn't for a GM.Some of the parts now reside in my custom 6.2 turbo,intercooler kit.
Shop around you have a lot more options in Edmonton then i have out in the sticks,you can probly find a turbo from some piece of equipment,i havnt seen a wastgated turbo on any cats,loaders,packers,ect.Sould be loots of dead diesels in your area.
Good luck
The ATS turbo is a little more different from the GM and Banks.
It's specifically molded around the T4 (yes not a T3) T04B turbo design. A bigger turbo won't fit because of how the manifolds (intake and exhaust) are casted. It's a WEIRD setup, still forming my opinion on the one I've got installed.
So far 9psi boost, but I haven't driven the truck much since install, and everything is really TIGHT (turbo and engine).
J
Thanks for the info ... my turbo has been rebuilt and ready for pickup :)
It's nice to have a setup that allow for a turbo with factory A/C ... however I would not want to have to change injectors or glow plugs with this thing on, man there is not a whole lot of room on the passanger side. The design does not allow for preformance mods as you have mentioned ... no bigger turbo, can't add an intercooler, or bigger air filter.
My impression ... on a light duty DD it think it would be great ... for someone trying to pull big HP from the 6.2 I don't think it's the answer.
I am going to pick up the 6.2 with the block casting #10149599. If the block is decent I have a line on a 94' 6.5TD with bad IP and burns oil (complete). I figure I can use for parts (timing cover, injectors/lines, turbo exhaust etc. to complete the 6.2 and drop into my other 1Tcc (no A/C) and see how it runs.
I think it would look better (and more authentic) with the air cooled jugs on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by trbankii
The one you show is quite a bit lighter than a '599 coffee table would be !